Pasquini Livia 90 - Rebuild Problem Solving

Need help with equipment usage or want to share your latest discovery?

#1: Post by Antinox »

Hello all,

I am new here but since I started this project I've been reading many of the posts here about the Pasquini Livia 90. Which lead me to believe someone here might have some valuable information for me that could help me problem solve my rebuild.

I recently acquired this machine for free from facebook market place. The original owner had a new machine and this one had been sitting. He said before he retired it, the pressure to the grouphead seemed to be weak. Since we are in Arizona, I figured this machine probably hadn't been descaled and was clogged. I was correct. Through my research I also found that the Relay was fried. So that was the first thing I replaced. I also replaced the Pressure Stat and Vacuum breaker. I disassembled the entire machine, cleaned, descaled the boiler, replaced all of the boiler/heating element bolts (some of the bolt heads had broken off). Now I have reassembled everything.

I have power, the pump comes on and fills the boiler, the boiler heats and pressurizes, I have steam and hot water. The machine gets up to pressure in the green on the pressure gauge and it cycles on and off to reheat when it needs to. So everything seems to be working fine there. The problem now is that, when I click the brew switch, nothing happens. I get no pressure to the grouphead and nothing comes out, not even steam. The pump also doesn't activate when I hit the brew switch. Nothing comes out the backflush/pressure relief either.

I disassembled my 3 way solenoid and it was definitely scaled and clogged. I descaled it as best I could and reassembled but I still get no response when I flip the brew switch. I can't tell if the 3 way valve is still clogged, or if the solenoid is working at all, or both.

I also wonder, since my pressure stat is brand new, I didn't adjust anything on it. Do I maybe need to turn the adjustment for more pressure to the grouphead? I'm not actually 100% clear on what the Pressurestat controls, is it the pressure in the boiler itself, or just the pressure going to the grouphead?

Any answers or thoughts would be much appreciated. The one thing I'm obviously hoping isn't the issue, is the main computer board because it's the most expensive thing to replace.


#2: Post by Coffcarl »

No noise from the pump when you hit the brew switch? Does the brew light come on? Do you hear a relay click?

Could be the switch
Could be the relay on the control board
Could be the pump, but you would hear it trying.
Could be wire to the pump.

The pressurestat think of as the temp sensor for the boiler. The pressure is a proxy for the temperature.

Even with a cool boiler the pump should run.

Antinox (original poster)

#3: Post by Antinox (original poster) »

The pump works when I first turn on the machine, fills the boiler, then turns off. When I flip the brew switch, the brew light comes on but I don't hear a relay click and no noise from the pump either.


#4: Post by Coffcarl »

Good news! Order a replacement brew switch. Take pictures of the connectors first for positioning on the new switch.

Antinox (original poster)

#5: Post by Antinox (original poster) »

Great, I hope that's the issue, I ordered another switch along with a few other bits. I'm roughly $200 in parts into this "free" machine but as long as I can get it working I think it will be worth it! It's been a good make work project for me so far either way.

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#6: Post by Chert »

You could always remove this switch. with the machine unplugged of course. and wire the connections correctly closed - as if you had turned on the Bruce switch. plug the machine in and then when you turn on the main power everything should run. that would prove that your switch isn't working.

or even easier: check the continuity across the switch with it closed
LMWDP #198


#7: Post by Coffcarl »

200 is nothing for a free machine of that caliber

Antinox (original poster)

#8: Post by Antinox (original poster) »

I actually managed to take the switches apart. They both had some burn marks on the connections. The switches are dead simple and easy to take apart. I cleaned all the connections with a wire brush and put everything back together and presto. Everything works.

I already ordered a new switch with a few other o-rings and things, but I guess I can keep it for a spare and I have a new 3 way valves solenoid coming from eBay that was $13... Can't hurt to have a spare around I guess.

Maybe if someone else reads this they can avoid buying new switches.