Owner experience with Bezzera Strega - Page 109

#1081: Post by **okmed** » March 3rd, 2017, 12:15 am

That last picture certainly looks like a copper boiler to me.

March 3rd, 2017, 12:43 am

That was incandescent lighting. Below is a (LED) flash shot. No processing/correction in either pic.

#1083: Post by **TomC** » March 3rd, 2017, 1:30 am

It looks like a plating on top of copper, not solid stainless. I would think that if it were stainless steel, wouldn't the various bungs and whatnot just be welded in place rather than tapped?

March 3rd, 2017, 2:21 am

chriscaffeine wrote:Is it recommended to remove the circular feet and change it to perhaps rubber paddings? I have countertop height issues and the Strega overshots by a 2-3cm.

Any comments folks? Thanks.

March 3rd, 2017, 2:36 am

It's designed to have a certain amount of air circulation underneath. You may luck out and find shorter feet somewhere (they're common fittings). I had the exact opposite route, I added taller feet and it wasn't very expensive. It made it easier to hide the dimmer switch mod out of the way, and worked better with my 6'3" height.

March 3rd, 2017, 2:48 am

Thanks Tom. Ater looking at the photos above, I agree that they are common fittings. I could find some fancy ones at a hardware shop with a rubber base.

March 3rd, 2017, 8:58 am

TomC wrote:It looks like a plating on top of copper, not solid stainless. I would think that if it were stainless steel, wouldn't the various bungs and whatnot just be welded in place rather than tapped?

I think that the bungs are all welded (or perhaps brazed) in place, but some are very close to being flush mounted so are hard to see.

As for plated, it could well be. I was just going by the vendor's description (idrinkcoffee and wholelattelove).

#1088: Post by **iCarumba** » June 21st, 2017, 4:30 am

I just did the water level mod.. it seems to work ok so far however i want to know if i did it correctly.

At first i thought by passing the water level is done by connecting the contact on both side of the tank. But i found that the other end of the contact does not connect to anything... maybe someone can explain how the switch even work?

So instead of pulling a wire connecting both side, i left the unconnected contact untouched. All i did was connect the other contact to the metal frame, i assume the switch need to be grounded.

September 10th, 2017, 2:39 pm

Any suggestions on how to replace the OPV silicone tube? I made a vac mode with a too big wye connector, so the tube from the connector to OPV tore a little. It's near the end but not at the end, so the tube is holding and I think it will hold for a while. The problem is that I already cut it too short and I am afraid there is no room left for cutting.
Meanwhile while I am waiting for a new 4x6mm tube and 3-5mm connector I am trying to figure if it's doable without removing the boiler.

#1090: Post by **erik82** » September 10th, 2017, 3:54 pm

Just be patient and take your time. I did it and it was a real pain in the a**. You don't have a lot of room but some small pliers did help for me. Even with the pliers it took me about 1.5 hours to do because of the lack of space.