LUCCA M58 by Quick Mill, reviews and owners thread - Page 36

#351: Post by **Shife** » June 17th, 2016, 3:49 pm

There are some 20A ZWave enabled outlets that you can install, but you need a ZWave hub to control them. All up price is around $140 for the outlet and hub. I plan to do this, but it hasn't been a priority.

#352: Post by **matseski** » June 17th, 2016, 4:49 pm

20A timers are available.

The Intermatic HB113 costs <$20. They are typically called appliance timers and are used for AC units.

Also, if you have/can add another outlet slot, you could get one of the built in digital timers for lighting for around $25 that are also rated to 20A.

#353: Post by **Zanderfy** » July 1st, 2016, 2:15 am

Hi everyone,

I was wondering if you might have some advice after this evening's maiden attempt at plumbing in my LUCCA. I'm using this pump/accumulator (I won't link in case there are concerns of affiliation, but it is the "SHURflo Espresso Machine Mini Water Pump System") along with a water jug, as well as the appropriate tubing/fittings.

Even after the accumulator engaged to equalize the pressure in the closed system, and I turned on my LUCCA, the LUCCA's rotary pump whirred and whirred without (seemingly) filling with any water. I only let it go for a max of 60 seconds, and left it off for at least 5 minutes in between attempts (as per the instruction manual).

Essentially, no water is coming from the grouphead, the rotary pump in the QM is running continuously, the PID does not turn on (during this process), nor does the SHURflo pump/accumulator "engage" (to say it did not start up once more after the initial equalization).

I'm wondering if there is a way to test the SHURflo, or to see where the issue lies. Is it possible I adjusted something (i.e. the inlet 3/8" at the machine) too tight? From my failure, I just switched the magnetic switch back to "Tank" for this evening, and it's now working fine on this setting. I'm very scared I caused irreparable damage to the rotary vane pump by (seemingly) running it dry, as well.

Many thanks for any insight you guys might share with me.

#354: Post by **gzim** » July 1st, 2016, 10:46 am

It won't let me delete my post... so never mind...

#355: Post by **clivecoffee** » July 1st, 2016, 8:56 pm

Zanderfy wrote:Hi everyone,
I'm wondering if there is a way to test the SHURflo, or to see where the issue lies. Is it possible I adjusted something (i.e. the inlet 3/8" at the machine) too tight? From my failure, I just switched the magnetic switch back to "Tank" for this evening, and it's now working fine on this setting. I'm very scared I caused irreparable damage to the rotary vane pump by (seemingly) running it dry, as well.

Hi Alex, where did you buy these items from? Can you disconnect the hose from the LUCCA and verify the flow?

@BP

#356: Post by **Zanderfy** » July 2nd, 2016, 12:53 am

clivecoffee wrote:Hi Alex, where did you buy these items from? Can you disconnect the hose from the LUCCA and verify the flow?

The flow from the SHURflo is completely fine -- it happily shoots water across my backyard.

Does anyone know the required inline PSI for the LUCCA/comparable rotary vane pump machines? In checking the Clive manual, it states 25 PSI is recommended, and my accumulator is pre-set at 20 PSI. I wouldn't think it would make that much of a difference.

Also, does anyone have any resources for examining/cleaning any solenoids/valves involved with the LUCCA's "acceptance" of inline water?

Thanks in advance!

#357: Post by **clivecoffee** » July 2nd, 2016, 2:00 am

Hi Alex,

I'm going to email you our water quality and plumbing guide, which I believe was created since you received your machine. In that we recommend 2-3 bar, or approximately 30-45 PSI. It would be super helpful if another plumbed e61 dual boiler owner shared whether they had success or issues at 20 bar, and I know Espressoparts sells a lot of that system so they'd probably have substantial experience to share. Their livechat is awesome!

@BP

http://users.rcn.com/erics/ · #358: Post by **erics** » July 2nd, 2016, 11:03 am

Does anyone know the required inline PSI for the LUCCA/comparable rotary vane pump machines? In checking the Clive manual, it states 25 PSI is recommended, and my accumulator is pre-set at 20 PSI. I wouldn't think it would make that much of a difference.

The 20 psi "pre-set" pressure in the accumulator is simply the initial pressure on the air side of the bladder with no water on the water side. This pressure can be/should be measured with a quality tire pressure gage. Lowering this pressure to 10 psi will allow for a greater volume of water on the water side. When the diaphragm pump connected to the accumulator shuts off at ~60 psi, the pressure on both sides of the bladder will be equal. As the water gets used up, the pump will likely come on at maybe 40 psi. I have not found any specs for the "turn-on" pressure so the 40 psi is just an educated guess.

Even though this set up (Shurflo pump/accumulator system) is used successfully on many installs, I am in favor of a larger accumulator of 2 or 3 gallon capacity with a pressure regulator just before the espresso machine. That is the type of system I have installed for a nearby friend and the pump that he is using to pressurize the water side of his accumulator (Flojet) comes on maybe every other day.

None of the above solves the problem but is simply posted as relevant info.

#359: Post by **jph437** » July 2nd, 2016, 2:49 pm

Not sure what baskets clive provides with the Lucca. But out of curiosity if they are the QM baskets, does anyone else have a hell of a time getting them out of the non-bottomless PFs? Because I sure am with my vetrano.

#360: Post by **Zanderfy** » July 2nd, 2016, 6:53 pm

Hi folks,

Just as an update, I've been engaged in conversations over the phone with Eric, who has been extraordinarily helpful and patient.

Together, we did not reach 100% surety as to any obvious issue/unplugged wire. Any further troubleshooting is testing my capabilities, and I will consult with Clive on Tuesday.

Still, I believe I may have re-connected a loose wire that was part of the reservoir/plumb switch, but I do not know if this remedied the situation.

Does anyone know a way to test the boilers' receipt of water and/or ability to plumb successfully, without running the rotary pump?

Many thanks.