LUCCA M58 by Quick Mill, reviews and owners thread - Page 39

Need help with equipment usage or want to share your latest discovery?
clivecoffee
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Postby clivecoffee » Jul 21, 2016, 6:36 pm

Hi guys,

Alex, from time to time I have to give an extra tap to my joysticks to get them back to the center. You can try flicking the valve closed with a little more force, and also rotating the joystick a bit when your machine is turned off so a different part of the mechanism is being locked.

sarends wrote:...sputtering, almost continually out of the little black horizontal overflow tube (at least I think that is what it is) that sits inside the drain pan (front right of machine).
Steve


That black hose connects to the expansion valve as well as the vacuum breaker. Is your machine fully warmed up? If it continues to do this then your vacuum breaker may not be fully sealing. If a steady stream flows out of that black hose when a plumbed machine is sitting idle, or when a machine running in reservoir mode is pulling a shot, then the expansion valve likely either needs to be opened up and cleaned, and possibly adjusted tighter.

Please loop in tech@clivecoffee.com so we can provide you the best information and instructions to get back up and running.

And FYI Ken, our tech department hasn't experienced any issues related to overfilling the reservoirs (or the machines getting wet inside). The parts you're referring to are covered by a stainless steel partition that separates the reservoir from the internals.

@BP
http://www.CliveCoffee.com
@MH Mark Hellweg | @BP Ben Piff

Zanderfy
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Joined: Sep 15, 2015, 10:12 am

Postby Zanderfy » Jul 21, 2016, 9:15 pm

clivecoffee wrote:Alex, from time to time I have to give an extra tap to my joysticks to get them back to the center. You can try flicking the valve closed with a little more force, and also rotating the joystick a bit when your machine is turned off so a different part of the mechanism is being locked.

Hmm, is this an indication of wear? I didn't notice any sort of mechanism behaviors (other than straight back to center) for the first 4 months of ownership. The steam valve joystick has this behavior, the hot water valve joystick (used much less frequently) does not.

Is there a way to examine these mechanisms?

Zanderfy
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Joined: Sep 15, 2015, 10:12 am

Postby Zanderfy » Jul 21, 2016, 11:58 pm

Here's another interesting observation I would love help to diagnose:

I set the machine to 20 amp mode, and let 'er rip. I monitored the machine the entire time, and noticed the steam boiler up to the SV of 256 F after ~7.5 minutes.

From minutes 8.5 - 12.5, the brew boiler was at 198 F, struggling to make it to the SV of 200 F. It finally hit it, and promptly dropped down to 199 F again after 30 seconds.

I totally understand the need to allow an E61 machine to stabilize, but I am 21 minutes into watching the machine, and the brew boiler element is still blinking away, unable to hold the SV of 200 F. It drops from 200 F to 199 F and back to 200 F continuously. I have never seen this element behavior before.

EDIT: brew boiler SV has since stabilized after ~30 minutes.

Notes:

1) The PID is at factory settings.

2) I didn't touch a single thing (brew lever, steam joystick) after turning the machine on from a cold (~75 F) start.

Some takeaways:

1) Do I need to flush the machine to wake it up/stabilize it?

2) How might I diagnose if it is an electrical issue? For all I am aware, the elements are being throttled by my mains (?)

3) While pressing the up/down arrows with the machine already on and heating up, both element lights turn off, and do not turn back on (regardless of distance from SV) unless I exit the temperature settings (T1, T2). I do not recall ever seeing this behavior.

clivecoffee
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Postby clivecoffee » Jul 22, 2016, 4:25 pm

Hi Alex,

I think you already spoke to Gil about this, but just for the benefit of the thread...Our take away from Scace testing these machines is that once an e61 dual boiler machine has reached their target temperature, you can confidently trust the group design to pull a shot at your target brew temperature. Flushing an ounce of water through the group head will make the shot even more stable, but if a person doesn't do this they'll still be within a degree or two over the shot. Even though the PID might calculate a temperature drop of one or two degrees, the temperature at the group will consistently pull shots within a degree of that temperature a minute apart. It's common for the machines to sit at 199, because the PID doesn't display tenths of a degree, and their target is to sit as close to the target (200 degrees is most common) as possible without overshooting it.

Once the machine is fully warmed up, you should have to try to pull a bad shot. But in 20 amp mode particularly both boilers will be fully recovered by the time you clean the portafilter and milk pitcher, grind more coffee and prep for the next shot.

With regard to the previous joystick question, I have the original M58 prototype at home and the original joysticks work fine. We eventually updated the joystick design to use heat treated parts for even longer life, and your machine has those. And it's easy to open the joystick up too.

Thanks,
@BP
http://www.CliveCoffee.com
@MH Mark Hellweg | @BP Ben Piff

Zanderfy
Posts: 133
Joined: Sep 15, 2015, 10:12 am

Postby Zanderfy » Jul 22, 2016, 4:36 pm

clivecoffee wrote:Hi Alex,

I think you already spoke to Gil about this, but just for the benefit of the thread...Our take away from Scace testing these machines is that once an e61 dual boiler machine has reached their target temperature, you can confidently trust the group design to pull a shot at your target brew temperature. Flushing an ounce of water through the group head will make the shot even more stable, but if a person doesn't do this they'll still be within a degree or two over the shot. Even though the PID might calculate a temperature drop of one or two degrees, the temperature at the group will consistently pull shots within a degree of that temperature a minute apart. It's common for the machines to sit at 199, because the PID doesn't display tenths of a degree, and their target is to sit as close to the target (200 degrees is most common) as possible without overshooting it.

Once the machine is fully warmed up, you should have to try to pull a bad shot. But in 20 amp mode particularly both boilers will be fully recovered by the time you clean the portafilter and milk pitcher, grind more coffee and prep for the next shot.

With regard to the previous joystick question, I have the original M58 prototype at home and the original joysticks work fine. We eventually updated the joystick design to use heat treated parts for even longer life, and your machine has those. And it's easy to open the joystick up too.

Thanks,
@BP

Ben, this is incredible feedback and information, thank you so much. As my own update to corroborate this, I moved the joystick around the perimeter a few times, and it definitely got the mechanism more freed to return to center.

Ben and Gil have been nothing short of exceptional, and if my comments and questions of concern seem uncharacteristically contrarian to this opinion, it is simply in response to a never-ending pursuit of optimization. Their patience towards my inquiries is laudable.

Wacobipe
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Joined: Jan 01, 2016, 9:16 pm

Postby Wacobipe » Aug 09, 2016, 6:01 pm

I just got shipping notice that my machine shipped yesterday and arrives Monday afternoon via UPS. The problem for me is I leave Monday morning for a week of work travel :?

clivecoffee
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Joined: Apr 14, 2011, 8:19 pm

Postby clivecoffee » Aug 09, 2016, 6:19 pm

Hi Brett,

Sorry to hear about that! Do you need us to intercept that package for you, or will someone else be available to receive it? Keep us posted.

Thanks,
@BP
http://www.CliveCoffee.com
@MH Mark Hellweg | @BP Ben Piff

Wacobipe
Posts: 28
Joined: Jan 01, 2016, 9:16 pm

Postby Wacobipe » Aug 10, 2016, 6:49 pm

Thanks Ben...My wife will be home so no need to intercept....unless you can intercept my week of business meetings and cancel my trip!

matseski
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Joined: May 31, 2016, 12:45 pm

Postby matseski » Aug 11, 2016, 4:23 pm

I just got my machine, it warmed up and stabilized quickly (I didnt time it), I pulled a shot, and all was well. Just one little annoying thing: I cannot get the drip try to sit firmly. No matter how I try to seat it, it wobbles around as the side rails are not in contact with the length of the removable tray when fully inserted. I am having a hard time seeing exactly what is hitting, but it seems like the plug or the beveled area around the plug is resting on the bottom of the chassis as it wobbles pretty freely about the center point.

Is this normal, am I just installing it incorrectly, or is my tray not quite right?


clivecoffee
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Posts: 135
Joined: Apr 14, 2011, 8:19 pm

Postby clivecoffee » Aug 11, 2016, 4:53 pm

Hi Jamey,

Please email this video link to tech@clivecoffee.com. The clearance between the frame and the drip tray is very close. I know some people who have installed a little strip of rubber or cork on the underside of the drip tray to give a little more grip and clearance.

Thanks,
@BP
http://www.CliveCoffee.com
@MH Mark Hellweg | @BP Ben Piff

 
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