Thanks! I also spoke to Jim at 1st Line. He said that they take the machine through initial start up and make sure everything is working. Drain the steam boiler and ship. First start up after shipping will fill the steam boiler. Long story short after the initial start up timed start as you describe is just fine. As you have obviously experienced!!

Hi Everyone,

Is it necessary to do full flush for the internals from boilers once the machine comes out of the box, in case of any lubricants, or that seems over job as it runs the pump to it's max allowing the water circulate all over " rinse " tubes, spouts and group head, using to refill the tank couple of times.

Is this looks okay or no need to do that.!!

Abdullah, it certainly is okay to do that. I don't have a clue if it is "necessary". That said, I've done it with about every coffee maker I've ever owned. It just seems the right thing to do to me. An ounce of prevention...

The "start up" procedure described in the user manual is essentially a full flush.

Greetings all.

I picked up a lightly used Bianca yesterday, so I am joining the party (albeit a bit late). I am coming from the La Nuopva Era Cuadra (HX E61) that has been my daily driver for the past 7-8 years, I only got to pull one shot so far after setting up the machine last night, but it went well right out of the gate and I am looking forward to getting to know this machine better. My first order of business is checking if the PID offset appears to be accurate or not.

One thing I am finding I do not care for. The machine's weight is pretty significant and the rubberized bottoms of the wooden feet make the machine virtually impossible to slide on the counter-top. I am finding I need to slide the machine out from under cabinets to get to the reservoir - even with the reservoir moved to the side (though not as far as when it is in the back). Has anybody made a mod/ work around for this issue?

I bought and added some inexpensive round felt self- stick-on pads to the bottom of the four feet. They allow the machine to slide easily when needed, but the weight of the machine keeps it in place when it is not needed to be moved. Any hardware store will carry them. I think the ones I used were about 1 inch in diameter. They work great, are cheap and easily replaceable and only raise the height of the machine by a 1/8 of an inch.

Thank you. I have some of those in my parts bin from using on chairs to protect the wood floor. I will give those a go.

I am at sea level. I tested my PID offset and it seems like I have to go to 102 C before I get an immediate strong flash boil. Which direction should I change the PID offset 8 or 12?

Jim Schulman wrote:
"The idea is to find the **lowest** temperature at which you see flash boiling, the LFBT (lowest flash boiling temperature). If it is at the local boiling point in your preferred temperature unit, you are set. If the LFBT is X degrees higher than you local boiling point, your offset is X degrees too low and needs to raised by X degrees. If the LFBT is X degrees lower than the local boiling point, your offset is too high, and needs to be lowered by X degrees. (There is a gotcha for Fahrenheit users, the offset is usually in Centigrade even if the panel reading is in Farenheit -- check your manual, or always do this calibration in Centigrade)."

I think he covered it well...