espressoren wrote: I took some time looking around the interior and the only place that remotely makes any sense as an alternate route for a plumbed-in line is this spot with a punch out on the opposite side of the machine. It looks like it would be just large enough for a fitting on a kit to pass through.

How strong is the punch-out? I would like to install a thoughput there, but then it should not fall out very easily.

I don't think you'd have any issue mounting something to that plastic panel, it should hold up. The punch out itself was a bit sturdy too. I don't know for sure if the size of the hole will be right but maybe with some washers or something you could make it work.

I drilled a hole through the punch-out and put the tube through, nothing fancy. But I led the tube around the boiler, so I did not have to make sharp bends.

Yeah that's where the right angle adapter is nice because you don't have to go around.

Now that it seems the official kit is available and would supersede a DIY I'm waiting to see more detailed information from owners who go that route. I thought I'd buy one but the cost seems pretty high when I'm already installed with a working solution.

Just looking at the kit, a few interesting things:

The punch out mentioned above is indeed used for their kit.

Looks like they ship with adjusted feet to raise the machine. This allows for a drain hose to actually fit through the gap between the counter and the underside of the machine.

As far as drainage, I don't think I ever shared but I just rigged up a poor solution with leftover tubing that drains into the nearby basin. It's thin enough to go under the machine with the existing feet and has worked well the past six months or so.

I went back to reservoir the day after. The pump got very noisy. In the kit I see a check valve (B.2.027) that has to be installed on the output of the pump. A check valve is often used to reduce hammering.
@ Marcus, do you use a check valve on the output of the pump?

I don't, but I haven't noticed a change in the pump sound.

I do have a pressure regulator set to 40psi and filter on the line feeding the machine, and my line is flexible, maybe that has helped? Is your line pressure especially high?

My regulator was set 35 psi and I use a PE tube. 1/4"

Maybe at 1/4" it's starving the pump? Not sure but I had used a larger tube because I wanted at least as much flow as the original reservoir, which I think was 8mm so I went 3/8".

I know it's pressurized but I figure once the pump starts it is going to be more than line pressure, so didn't want to have lower volume capability than the reservoir tubing had.

The check valve may be to ensure no backflow out of the device once it is plumbed in. Not sure why it is needed really, maybe others with more experience can weigh in.

espressoren wrote:The check valve may be to ensure no backflow out of the device once it is plumbed in. Not sure why it is needed really, maybe others with more experience can weigh in.

NSF certification requires a device be installed to prevent contamination of the water supply via backflow from appliances, etc. This would be one reason for the check valve. I also thought I remembered something about pressure be maintained in the preheat loop piping (piping wrapped around steam boiler) to prevent flashing which could result in water hammer.

Fitz454 wrote: I also thought I remembered something about pressure be maintained in the preheat loop piping (piping wrapped around steam boiler) to prevent flashing which could result in water hammer.

Thanks. Any reason the above would be different for plumb in vs none? I could see it being a concern for backflow reasons, but if they were maintaining pressure at this point in the system you'd think a check valve would be necessary even with reservoir.