La Marzocco GS3 AV Cleaning Regimen

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Donguanella

Postby Donguanella » Sep 11, 2018, 11:39 am

Bought a used GS3 AV recently and I'm curious what everyone's cleaning regimen is. I've watched the La Marzocco video on this subject, but curious about some of the nuance. Here are my details:

I'm using the GS3 AV daily for 2-4 shots. I have the machine set to to turn on in the morning, and I generally manually turn it off before leaving for work.

The cleaning regimen I was recommended by the tech that I bought the machine from was to backflush weekly with Cafiza E31 tablets. The regimen I have been doing is (5) manual :10 seconds pulls with the tablet, and then another (5) manual :10 second pulls with clean water -- using the built-in timer as my stopwatch. And a blind basket.

I've noticed that the automatic cleaning cycle on the GS3 is not 10 seconds, it's really only :5 seconds of backlashing with a :5 second pause.

So my questions are:

-What are others doing as their cleaning regimen and at what frequency?
-Are you using the built-in cleaning sequence, or manually timing :10 second sequences?
-What cleaning product are you using?
-And what does your cleaning regimen actually include -- are you removing your screen, soaking portafilters, etc?

Aguirre

Postby Aguirre » Sep 11, 2018, 11:51 am

I have a MP, so in my case there's no built-in cleaning.

Donguanella wrote:-What are others doing as their cleaning regimen and at what frequency?

I also do it weekly. In addition to the backflush, I also wash the driptray and grate. Additionally, after every shot I immediately discard the puck, brush the shower screen and run a post-shot flush
Donguanella wrote:-Are you using the built-in cleaning sequence, or manually timing :10 second sequences?

I manually time 10 seconds.
Donguanella wrote:-What cleaning product are you using?

I'm using Urnex tablets
Donguanella wrote:-And what does your cleaning regimen actually include -- are you removing your screen, soaking portafilters, etc?

I remove the screen and soak it with the screen screw and portafilter in hot water with cafiza while I do the backflush sequence.

gr2020

Postby gr2020 » Sep 11, 2018, 12:23 pm

I'm a new MP owner also - I'm using the powdered detergent that came with the machine. 6x 10-sec flushes (10s on, 10s off) with detergent, then rinse, and 6x 10-sec flushes with just water. I'm leaving the screen in place while backflushing. I pull 2-4 shots per day, and I'm doing this monthly so far.

On my old machine, I never pulled the screen, so the first month with the MP it didn't occur to me. On the second month I pulled the screen, and it was a little gross on the underside, so I soaked it for 30 min in detergent and water. I will start doing this each month, after seeing the build-up after the first two months.

And I'm discarding the first shot after cleaning - this was on the instructions for the detergent, and I ignored it the first time, and eww...so now I dump the first shot.

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AssafL

Postby AssafL » Sep 11, 2018, 12:26 pm

I use the self cleaning. Once with The white powder (the cheaper one) and once without after cleaning the group with a Pallo brush.

The second set is to not get the bitter cleaning solution flavor which I personally dislike.

Once a week, fortnight, after getting suspicious oxidized flavors, or before going on a vacation.
Caution! Water, heat, pressure and electricity don't mix! I want an espresso.

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Peppersass

Postby Peppersass » Sep 11, 2018, 6:28 pm

After each shot, i flush the group until I don't see anymore coffee particles coming off the shower screen. Then I wipe it with a paper towel. Usually lots of stuff comes off on the paper towel. I run the group again, then wipe again. Usually little or no stuff comes off on the second wipe, so I know the shower screen is reasonably clean.

The reason for doing this is to avoid coffee and coffee oils from baking onto the shower screen between shots and sessions. It makes a difference.

[N.B. I'm currently using an IMS coated shower screen, which behaves differently than traditional shower screens. Stuff doesn't stick as tenaciously to the IMS screen, and it can't be brushed with a Pallo or other stiff brush due to the coating. Stuff sticks more tenaciously to traditional shower screens so they require using a stiff brush.]

After each session, I do two manual plain-water backflushes with the screen in place.

About once a week, I remove the screen and screw, and put them into a one-quart Pyrex measuring cup with all the baskets and portafilters I've used. I add about 5 rounded teaspoons of Joe Glo and enough hot water from the tea wand to cover the parts. I let this soak for at least 15 minutes, then rinse the parts thoroughly with hot tap water.

While the parts are soaking, I do a single manual backflush with a little under one Pallo spoonful of Joe Glo. The Pallo spoon is about the equivalent of 1/2 tsp, so I'm using 1/3 tsp or less. I pour the detergent into a blind basket and fill with water, stirring to dissolve the detergent completely so small particles don't get caught in the gicleur. After the backflush, I let the machine sit with the detergent solution in it for about 15 minutes. Then I do a backflush with the same amount of detergent, dissolved as described above, using the GS/3 automatic backflush cycle (I think it runs 10-15 times.) Then I do a plain-water backflush using the GS/3 automatic backflush cycle. Then I repeat the plain water backflush to make absolutely sure no detergent remains in the system.

Personally, I don't believe it's necessary to run a manual backflush for more than the time it takes to build to maximum pressure, plus a few seconds. Five seconds, or whatever time the automatic cycle takes, is sufficient. I don't think much is gained by letting the system sit under max backflush pressure longer, and that the force of expelling the water is what really cleans the machine. That is, if you want to clean more thoroughly, run more cycles, not longer cycles. But I suppose it could be argued that longer cycles give the detergent water more time to dissolve coffee oils or plain water more time to dissolve detergent. LM seems to go for more cycles versus more time, so that's the way I go.

As for the steam wand, I wipe it with a damp cloth after steaming, then pulse the steam to clear the opening. At the end of the session, I fill a cup or pitcher with water, insert the wand, let it steam for a second or two, turn off the steam, direct the wand to the drain box, and pulse the steam. Then I repeat once. I do this because I've read that milk can get sucked up into the steam tip when the steam is turned off. So I steam water in the hope that water will get sucked up into the steam tip, will mix with any milk in there, and will be expelled when I flush it into the drain box. This all may be wishful thinking on my part. I still have to remove and clean the steam tip (a Spro-Knife) periodically, but possibly less often.

[End of Message from the House of OCD :wink: ]

yvizel

Postby yvizel » Sep 13, 2018, 8:51 pm

I have the MP, but still, just my 2cents.

I usually backflush without a cleaner (only water) after each shot of espresso.
Though I am not sure how much of a difference it makes, since I've never tried to test it.

And the the full routine once a month.

Cristiano

Postby Cristiano » Sep 14, 2018, 11:57 am

I have a GS3 A / V 2013 and would like to know if there is any product that can eliminate the yellowish spots on the programming buttons. I searched the button silicone stickers on several sites, but I also did not find them.

Thanks for the help.

sluflyer06

Postby sluflyer06 » replying to Cristiano » Sep 14, 2018, 1:22 pm

Yellowing is typically a trait of some plastics, I highly doubt you can do anything other than replace the buttons.

Cristiano

Postby Cristiano » Sep 14, 2018, 1:39 pm

Do you know which shops I could find? because I searched in some stores and did not find.

thanks for the feedback.

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AssafL

Postby AssafL » Sep 14, 2018, 2:28 pm

Cristiano wrote:I have a GS3 A / V 2013 and would like to know if there is any product that can eliminate the yellowish spots on the programming buttons. I searched the button silicone stickers on several sites, but I also did not find them.

Thanks for the help.


When I buy old test Equipment, sometimes the buttons are yellow. Soaking them in bleach sometimes blanches them, or at least makes yellow spots lighter. Note that soaking period may be a few days.
Caution! Water, heat, pressure and electricity don't mix! I want an espresso.