fabrication date : JAN 05

jon

Thanks Jon. I might be interested in experimenting with this too. I don't think my group runs as hot as yours, but I do think it runs hot nonetheless.

I hate to ask another favor, but could you send me a PM with the email addy for your expobar contact in Australia? I'd appreciate it.

Thanks again,

couldn't one just drill that out of a brass slug? isn't it just a disc that slips into the female side of the threading?

The teflon orifice plate is also acting as a "replacement" seal between the male and female fittings. It is moving the sealing seat of the two fittings away from the boiler or grouphead a distance equal to the compressed thickness of the teflon. So, maybe you could get by with a brass or copper washer thin enough to conform to the seating surfaces and maybe not.

On some E61 machines the particular area that Jon was working in is NOT very accessible without doing some pretty serious disassembly. In those cases, I would be a little hesitant to try something different.

But what would get me upset here is the absence of a reasonable response from either WLL or the Expobar factory whereas the total "can do" attitude of Expobar Australia is a shining example of customer relations at its finest.

Eric S.

erics wrote:The teflon orifice plate is also acting as a "replacement" seal between the male and female fittings. It is moving the sealing seat of the two fittings away from the boiler or grouphead a distance equal to the compressed thickness of the teflon. So, maybe you could get by with a brass or copper washer thin enough to conform to the seating surfaces and maybe not.

they said to be careful to not overtighten, it would tear the restrictor. i tightened it enough to not have any leaks. no where near as tight as it was before. on the other end i tightend it but also not as tight as originally.

erics wrote:But what would get me upset here is the absence of a reasonable response from either WLL or the Expobar factory whereas the total "can do" attitude of Expobar Australia is a shining example of customer relations at its finest.

i didnt even buy it from expobar australia, im not even in that country and they helped me out.

i hope they dont get flooded with requests from america for these discs.

day 2, it is still great. and im flushing less and drinking better shots. and enjoying the process more without the wait for the long flushes.

thanks for your help.

jon

Interesting to know RJ. May come in handy in the future since I just sent payment for a used Office Pulser.

bc

erics wrote:But what would get me upset here is the absence of a reasonable response from either WLL or the Expobar factory whereas the total "can do" attitude of Expobar Australia is a shining example of customer relations at its finest.

Yep, they're just lovely people to deal with. You call them up and ask for them to convert a vibe to rotary for you and they do it with no problems. A friend of mine recently screwed up his expobar and they repaired it with absolutely no problems.

If your expobar distributors are hopeless enough not to want to help y'all, it might be a good idea to do a poll and group buy of the restrictors, just out of courtesy to the guys downunder.

Cheers,

Luca

More info on the restrictor?

Is it something you have to get from Expobar Australia, or is it a common item that can be found at a hardware store?

I've had my Pulser for two weeks, and already I'm sick of the 6-8oz cooling flushes.

Sure, I could turn down the boiler temp, but I froth milk too, and I don't want to kill my steam power entirely.

The restrictor only solves 1 problem - temp of the metal too high at the grouphead.
You still need to deal with temp too high from being in the hx, and the temp of the hx itself.
And you might have a restrictor in there already - only way to tell is to open it ( which can be less than ideal )

I'd suggest lowering your pstat to the point where your cooling flushes are lower AND you have enough steam -- and then worry about the restrictor.

Ideally, your first cooling flush should be 2-6oz and then you're set. i think the OP's issue was that no matter how much he cooled the hx tube, his grouphead was still too hot

Sure, but finding that balance isn't as easy as you might think... even with a PID. How long does it take boiling water to cool a hunk of metal?

Now you see the problem. The cooler the metal is to begin with, the less flushing is required to reach normal parameters.