Elektra T1 - #771 built in 2000 is now mine

Need help with equipment usage or want to share your latest discovery?
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mhoy

#1: Post by mhoy »

Funny thing, just upgraded to a used Anita and I was darn happy with it. :D However I happened to see an ad on Craigslist that looked interesting... a short chat with the gentleman who acquired it (along with a restaurant) and it seemed in reasonable shape, worth an hour drive to take a look at. Well it wasn't the GL1 he listed but it was a T1. Given almost a decade of use I think it's in OK shape (after all I did buy it). Now it wasn't plumbed in or plugged in, so I decided to take a chance. Hopefully the main boards aren't burned out or anything like that.

As is before any cleanup.


The deal with my wife is that she gets a new kitchen (that we've talked about for a while) since I have to plumb and plug this thing in. :lol:

There is certainly some water in the boiler and when I briefly turn it on I get a light near the switch. I'll leave the rest of the experimentation for later (like another 6 to 12 months, I have a kitchen to update!!).

I'll be back for assistance when I get time to work on it.
Cheers,
Mark

BTW: I don't think they ever cleaned the three portafilters. This is after a 10 minute soak...

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jesawdy

#2: Post by jesawdy »

mhoy wrote:BTW: I don't think they ever cleaned the three portafilters. This is after a 10 minute soak...
Repeated soakings in a fairly concentrated solution of espresso detergent and very hot water should get them clean (JoeGlo "Wicked Liquid" instructions, should work for any espresso machine detergent). You may need to use a green scrub pad as well. It is generally recommend to only soak the metal portion and not the handle, and not too long as suggested in the linked instructions.

BTW, sweet machine, hope she works out for you.
Jeff Sawdy

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mhoy (original poster)

#3: Post by mhoy (original poster) »

The portafilters are in much better shape after a couple of soaks. An old toothbrush wasn't sufficient, but as you mentioned a green scrubby helped out a great deal. They are good enough for now given that I won't be using them for sometime. :(

It is indeed a sweet machine, I've looked at the other forum members that have Elektra's but never expected that I would get one someday. It was planned for after I won the lottery, not before.

Mark

Paul

#4: Post by Paul »

great wee machine. Elektra's are very well built and make a great cup. I'm sure it'll look a million bucks with a little polish and the badge repainted.
cheers
Paul

LMWDP #084

zin1953

#5: Post by zin1953 »

Congrats, Mark -- I hope you keep the pics coming as your cleanup/restoration continues . . .
A morning without coffee is sleep. -- Anon.

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mhoy (original poster)

#6: Post by mhoy (original poster) »

Having been in professional use, there are a number of dings and scratches that will be a pain to polish out. The legs need replacing, chrome plated plastic aren't the best idea.



Last night I inquired about ordering a repair and service manual, voila, Elektra has already shipped me a hard copy. :D

Mark

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cannonfodder
Team HB

#7: Post by cannonfodder »

Super deal, I am assuming. From the looks of the portafilters, the machine has not been taken care of. Remove the shower screen from the group. There should be a single slotted screw holding the screen onto the dispersion block. Once you unscrew it, it should just drop off, brass block and all. The dispersion block has around 6 very tiny holes in it. those will get clogged up even with weekly backflushing. I take mine off every couple of months and run a pin through the holes after a long soak in JoeGlo to clean them out. Yours is probably nearly blocked.

The 3-way is probably plugged up with old coffee residue as well and may need removed and soaked to clean it out. A good descale is probably in order as well unless he had a good softener on the supply line. You can check that a couple of ways. If you remove the cap from the group, there is a wire mesh filter. You can look at that for buildup. If you take the cup warmer off the top so you can get into the boiler, there is a cap on the heat exchanger that uses a large Allen wrench (unless they changed that between the old and new versions). You can unscrew that cap to see what the scale inside the heat exchanger is like. Finally, for the boiler, you will need to remove the vacuum breaker or heating element so you can see inside the boiler to inspect it for scale. If the heat exchanger inspection shows little scale, then chances are the boiler is in similar condition.
Dave Stephens

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mhoy (original poster)

#8: Post by mhoy (original poster) »

Super deal, $850 :mrgreen: This assuming the electronics aren't shot, previous owner claims it was in use before retirement in Feb of this year! Sweat equity is something I can understand (I've re-tiled 50% of my house).

I have to get a stubby screw driver to remove the group head, looks like I need a large Allen wrench too...
Any idea what size?

I've not gotten the instruction/parts manuals yet. Which one is the vacuum breaker?



Thanks a bunch,
Mark

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HB
Admin

#9: Post by HB »

mhoy wrote:I've not gotten the instruction/parts manuals yet. Which one is the vacuum breaker?
The silver one on the right with the brass pin. The brass fitting next to it is the safety pressure release.
Dan Kehn

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cannonfodder
Team HB

#10: Post by cannonfodder »

A- Pressurestat
B- Pressurestat adjustment screw
C- Brew/auto-fill solenoid
D- Heating element
E- Heat exchanger inspection cap
F- Boiler level probe
G- Brew pressure gauge supply line
H- Boiler pressure gauge line (also K)
I- Boiler pressure release valve
J- Vacuum breaker
K- Boiler pressure gauge capillary supply
L- Pump pressure adjustment screw and locking ring
M- Brew pump
N- Brew pump body

The level box and controls are under the drip tray

It looks like it is in good shape under the covers

Dave Stephens