Paul: Thanks for the input. I'm sure the 3/8" copper washer wasn't there as there is a nice little ledge that the new one perfectly sits on. I'll use a bit more persuasion on the old washers on the level sensor and vacuum valve holes.

The pressure valve didn't look like a high precision part so I wasn't too worried about it, but given all the other work I'm doing, I'll add it to the parts list that is still growing. I keep putting off ordering so that I can get 'all' the parts I need. I guess I won't really know that for a while...

So far on the second order of parts:
1. New neon lights, current ones are crispy, plastic shielding on leads that connect to the lights should also be replaced.
2. Teflon gasket for heater flange
3. Pressure Relief valve

Pressure valves are calibrated ( AKA safety valve ). I would replace it, not only it can pop and blow if you are adjusting it incorrectly but it can stay open slowly letting out pressure ( just like a leak ...............well it is a leak) therefore making your pstat and heating element work more than they should.

Ordered another bunch of stuff from Stefano this morning (and I got a shipping notice this afternoon, amazing service).

The new drain box doesn't have a hole pre-drilled for the water from the 3-way. Kind of odd. The old box had a hole that looked somewhat 'hand' drilled. Not exactly what I'd expect on a $$$ machine.

Tried a test fit of the plumbing, making sure thing still fit. It soaked in citric acid for so long it may have shrunk the copper.



Before I tighten things up, I'll first layout the electrical then the plumbing.

Then test for leaks, heat it up, cool down, re-tighten, repeat.

If you have any hints, ideas, etc. tell me now so I don't have to take things apart again.

Mark

BTW: Gregg Stuart, I'm still awaiting email from you.

keep one of the heating element wires disconnected until you are sure there is plenty of water in the boiler

Of course I had to polish up the stainless steel on the hottest weekend of the year...

I removed the name plate/serial number and I'll re-locate it to the electronics cover under the drip tray.

You may be able to see the fine scratches around the name plate.



After 30 minutes of light cleaning and then polishing I still have light scratches, but they are much harder to see. If you have tried taking pictures of scratches, it ain't easy.



The upper plate where the silk screened Elektra name used to be:



=-=-
Mark

Now the hot water wand needed to be finished up before re-assembly could be done. It was relatively easy, but I used a wooden jawed vice to grip a number of the items. I purchased a backup steam wand (from Gregg Stuart) and figured out from it which way the various threads turn. Being new it wasn't seized up in any way. NOTE: The part that hold the wood-like handle in place is LEFT handed, along with the nut beside it. This may save some one some grief at some point.



The ball and socket are pretty crufty with hard water, but I suspect it all worked well because to the self cleaning on the ball joints.

I was unsuccessful in getting the end with the bakelite handle off, it has a tiny flats for a wrench and no grip on the smooth handle. I gave up after a number of attempts. Back to the main part wand. Now inside the large chromed piece is the valve mechanism, this part is a bit trickier since one end (not shown) is a piece of stainless steel that is round and has a spring with it.


The end cap is copper and it's free to turn when you try and undo it. I used the wooden jaws on the vice to grip the steel end, pressed down and turned the screw at the same time. I bet the factory has a nice jig that does all this for them...




Into the ultrasonic cleaner with Cafiza, followed by a quick soak in a hot citric acid solution. Voila all clean. Open the pack from Stefano for rebuilding the steam arm, apply tiny bits of high temp silicon grease (don't buy the big tube like I did, this will last forever or until you lose it). Reassembly of the sprung inner valve with the copper end wasn't as simple as I would have liked. Turns out, if you assemble the end of the valve, you can depress the valve (as if drawing water) and then it's a bit easier to thread on the copper nut.

Decided to use the steam wand from Gregg and save one rebuild kit and the original steam arm for a rainy day project.

=-=-
Mark

Swigert: 'Okay, Houston, we've had a problem here.'

I finally pryed out the old copper washers, just took a bit more force than I had originally thought. Unfortunately my replacement washers for the level probe and the vacuum vent don't seem to be the same size as the originals. These appear to be correct according to the parts schematics but are off by about one millimeter, one smaller the other larger.

The washers from top to bottom with a ruler placed on one side for comparison purposes:
1. replacement - vacuum vent washer
2. original vacuum vent washer
3. original level probe washer
4. replacement washer.

They increase in size by about a mm for each washer.





No luck at the local hardware store, or the automotive shop, they seemed to have the same washers as my new ones...

Ah well I needed a break for the day.
=-=-
mark

mhoy wrote:Swigert: 'Okay, Houston, we've had a problem here.'

I finally pryed out the old copper washers, just took a bit more force than I had originally thought. Unfortunately my replacement washers for the level probe and the vacuum vent don't seem to be the same size as the originals. These appear to be correct according to the parts schematics but are off by about one millimeter, one smaller the other larger.

The washers from top to bottom with a ruler placed on one side for comparison purposes:
1. replacement - vacuum vent washer
2. original vacuum vent washer
3. original level probe washer
4. replacement washer.

They increase in size by about a mm for each washer.


<image>


No luck at the local hardware store, or the automotive shop, they seemed to have the same washers as my new ones...

Ah well I needed a break for the day.
=-=-
mark

are the ID of the original and replacement washers the same? I've had this issue before and the replacements worked for me. Make sure there is no rubbish on the seats and I bet you'll be fine.

Near as I can tell in photoshop with a measure tool, the ID on the larger level probe washer is the same as the replacement, but it looks like the ID on the replacement vacuum breaker is somewhat smaller...