Guys,

I need your help again (with your help, I replaced the pump & pstat last September). I lost boiler pressure this morning, seemingly out of the blue. The machine turns on and heats up; and I'm able to draw shots. But no pressure for steaming. I did notice the pressure red-zoned a couple of times lately. Not sure if it's a pstat problem or something else. Any suggestions before I tinker too much? Tom

If you open the steam wand valve and the boiler pressure drops, the vacuum breaker is sticking shut, resulting in false pressure. Mine does that regularly, despite that I've only used distilled water in the boiler. Tapping the pin on the vacuum breaker unsticks it for awhile.

If the pressurestat is reaching the red zone, it's failing in the closed position. This happens when the diaphragm is no longer flexible enough, or the contacts have welded themselves together. Replacement is the only fix.

For sake of completeness, the only other causes for a cold boiler I can think of are (a) over-temperature thermostat has tripped, (b) heating element has shorted out, and of course (c) it's unplugged and/or turned off.

UPDATE: The problem is the bleeder valve under the reservoir - I saw water/steam leaking from it and condensation under the reservoir. The steel pin seems to move freely - I stuck a knife in there and moved it around per another post - so I don't think it's stuck. Should I just replace it?

I still see water/steam is leaking from the bleeder valve/vacuum breaker and condensation building up under the reservoir.

Per Dan Kehn's advice in another post, I stuck a knife in there and tapped the pin. It moves about pretty easily; so I don't think it's stuck. Any other fixes to try or should I replace it?

There are two valves on top of the boiler. The smaller silver one with the brass pin is the vacuum breaker. It should allow steam to escape during warmup and then close as the boiler pressurizes. The other valve is all brass and taller; it's the over-pressure valve. It only opens if the boiler pressure exceeds ~1.6 bar.

If the vacuum breaker is failing to seal, try soaking it in vinegar to remove scale/crud. If the over-pressure valve is leaking, replace it.

Turned out to be (b) the heating element shorted out. Dropped it off at 1st Line in Manalapan, NJ for repair. While there I had them check and replace a lot of the tubing inside. The machine is 7 1/2 years old and had a lot of gunk built up/blocking the tubing.

Thanks again for your help.

Tom

dumb question - do you have to take the top tank off to access the vacuum breaker -ie how do I find it? I tried pulling up a picture of it and failed even on Stephano's great site - I figure it is there on this picture somewhere and I'm missing it.

http://espressocare.com/Qstore/Qstore.c ... 159278323&


I do get false pressure and would love to fix this. Also once I find it can I take it off and descale that part to fix the issue? (Even though like others I have used only distilled in the boiler?)

There's no such "thing" as "dumb". It is item 29 in Stefano's pic - as pictured, a so-called "short" vacuum breaker.

I would take this opportunity to order a new one plus other goodies you may have always wanted. Soak the old one in white vinegar for 30 minutes, rinse, inspect, & put in the spare parts box.

da gino wrote:dumb question - do you have to take the top tank off to access the vacuum breaker -ie how do I find it? I tried pulling up a picture of it and failed even on Stephano's great site - I figure it is there on this picture somewhere and I'm missing it.

If you own a Semi you aint dumb .

It's easy to take the tank off and when you do I suggest a full descale. Much easier with the kettle off. Just remember to replace the copper washers.

Thanks for the help! Hugh