ECM Synchronika owners - Page 22

Need help with equipment usage or want to share your latest discovery?
BoGs
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Posts: 15
Joined: 1 year ago

#211: Post by BoGs »

Mike-R wrote:Preach! :)

I find it really surprising that ECM removed 20amp mode. This was a significant feature.

I don't recall my boiler filling while my lever was in brew mode, though. I had always assumed this meant that the controller logic inhibits the steam boiler fill while the lever is pushing the pump switch. But maybe I have just been lucky. Does this happen to you often?
I assumed the same, it happens roughly 3-4/year not frequent at all but it happens enough knowing that it shouldn't given that the switch for the pump tells the controller to turn on the pump (work in software). Overall not the end of the world but it frustrating every time.

OverThinker
Posts: 14
Joined: 7 months ago

#212: Post by OverThinker »

Ok guys I really need some advice on this one. I was removing the flange in order to lubricate my lever cam. I mistakenly thought the inner nut was separate from the flange body and stripped the hell out of the stainless steel part of the flange :cry:
After realizing it's all part of it, I unscrewed and lubed and put it back. Not happy with the blemish, I ordered a flange replacement and it's outer screw as well. In order for me to use this part though, I need to unscrew the old one to get at its innards. How in the world does one do this? Separating the outer screw from the flange is REALLY DIFFICULT. I know videos suggest I might need 2 skinny wrenches. I only have 1 adjustable wrench that's kinda skinny and a jaw type plier. Has anybody attempted this before? If so, how did you do it? For reference, here's the pic

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Paris92
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Joined: 2 years ago

#213: Post by Paris92 replying to OverThinker »

I ended up sending an inquiry to ECM asking them for the two wrench sizes needed. I found conflicting information regarding the wrench sizes needed in various videos. I see no other way than using narrow open-end wrenches. I ended up purchasing two made by Milwaukee. I have a post here somewhere indicating the correct sizes. If you lube the cam you most likely need to drop the bottom exhaust port and spring also to be able to fit it back in. Even though there are videos that show otherwise, I could not reinsert the cam without taking the pressure off by dropping that out. I used electrical tape and a very thin strong plastic bag to protect from scratches. It's difficult to avoid not making any markings.

OverThinker
Posts: 14
Joined: 7 months ago

#214: Post by OverThinker replying to Paris92 »

Hey thanks for replying to this and the other post. So I just ordered those 2 wrenches off of amazon (the jetech 22mm and 26mm) and they worked like a charm! I still had to exert a ton of force but I managed to open it up, get into the internals and put them in my replacement. Applied some molykote while I was in there too.

Regarding cam, I actually found it easiest by removing the mushroom valve (while lever is down), setting the lever to the 45 degree position and it's not that bad to remove the cam at that angle (probably because it's not touching anything).

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Paris92
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#215: Post by Paris92 »

OverThinker wrote:Regarding cam, I actually found it easiest by removing the mushroom valve (while lever is down), setting the lever to the 45 degree position and it's not that bad to remove the cam at that angle (probably because it's not touching anything).
That makes sense. And yes I did keep the lever at 45-degrees also. I have a flow control device on top so I didn't want to fiddle with that. And if any marring occurred taking it off it would be more hidden on the bottom exhaust, was my thinking.

jeffreylam98
Posts: 129
Joined: 8 years ago

#216: Post by jeffreylam98 »

can I lub the cam without taking the whole cam shaft out ?

In that way I can put the lub on a needle then apply it on the cam ?

So no need to remove mushroom/release valve

PS : my ECM Syn will arrive in March

Noplacetobe
Posts: 30
Joined: 2 years ago

#217: Post by Noplacetobe replying to jeffreylam98 »

Short answer : yes.

If you only want to adress a squeaky leaver, you only have to unbolt the screw from the level and the large nut that covers the brew handle. If you want to take out the camshaft it is best to put the brew leaver on a 45 degree angle. In that scenario there is no tension from the valves on the camshaft.

jeffreylam98
Posts: 129
Joined: 8 years ago

#218: Post by jeffreylam98 »

Really no tension ? As I always see ppl remove the upper or lower spring just to detach the cam

Are they too stupid or is there other factors ?

JRising
Team HB
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Joined: 5 years ago

#219: Post by JRising replying to jeffreylam98 »

Depends on the machine and the valves and the integrity of the valve faces. As the black rubber valve faces disintegrate, the cam-riders encroach deeper and deeper into the cam's area.
Also, why would you not inspect your valves while lubricating the grouphead's moving parts? Getting the valves out and back in is so much less work than getting the cam out and back in.

overshoot__
Posts: 1
Joined: 20 days ago

#220: Post by overshoot__ »

I could really use some help as a 2-year owner. I feel like the quality of the coffee has gone downhill and it is related to this following issue that seems to be slowly getting worse:

We use the machine each morning for two cappuccinos and sometimes once in the afternoon. The issue we are having is really around maintaining good pressure and not consistently filling up the tank when you turn the machine on. What seems to happen is whoever gets the first cup can generally get a decent cup, but the second one will stop in the middle and make that very loud noise as it is filling up and the pressure in general is much less and just doesn't taste as good.

I have tried turning it off in between the first and the second but doesn't seem to help. I'm wondering if there's something wrong with the machine where it's not sensing when one of the water needs to be refilled? Or perhaps it has to do with the flow control that was part of it? Well perhaps I could just be bad settings that we haven't changed in a long time since asking for help on a form long ago.

It seems that on a morning where you turn it on and it makes that loud noise right away that you can get a pretty decent cup after but if it doesn't, you don't. Before I go completely down the rabbit hole to figure out what this is or try to find a service tech that can come out, are there any things that I can try that sounds like it could be the issue?