ECM Synchronika owners - Page 11

September 10th, 2022, 2:18 pm

Noelpolar wrote:The shiny knob is a solid aluminium "stereo" volume control knob (chromed brass would be nicer or SS).... bought from china.... same shaft diameter as flow control.... and had a grub screw.... I shaped and polished it and filed a slot in the top for the paddle to sit it in .... small screw holds the paddle in the slot from below..... etc etc. The flow control is much more tactile now..... as it should be.... a significant improvement... I don't know why someone doesn't market these....

Absolutely gorgeous job!

Perhaps you should market 'Kits'!

September 10th, 2022, 2:46 pm

FWIW, Luca sell a kit with a wood paddle.

https://www.totalespresso.com/products/ ... ow-control?

#103: Post by **Paris92** » September 10th, 2022, 3:24 pm

Paris92 wrote:I like the paddle. I have always thought the little knob on my ECM FC is a bit odd. I assume it is sized so it clears the front panel of the machine in the 12 o'clock position. A paddle must be a better solution for control and to keep from contact with the hot metal parts on the group.

In what position is your paddle when in the fully closed position? When received from the factory mine was at 3 o'clock. I rotated it counterclockwise to six o'clock, then when returning it back closed, it only goes to 12 o'clock as fully closed. This is brand new and never used (yet.) Dialing in my grinder this weekend and will have a go at pulling shots soon. I don't expect to be experimenting with the FC for quite some time, but wanted the option to grow into.

I found it quite odd that it can't go back to the factory position at 3 o'clock. I assume I have to pull the top knob off, reset it's location to say maybe 9 o'clock as the closed position? I would rather be turning from 9 to 3 o'clock when I use it, rather than from 3 to nine "around the back" of the group. Or am I thinking about this incorrectly?

Well, I spoke with WLL, and it appears my FC unit has a "range of motion" issue. This appears to be a common issue with these valves if they are cranked down too hard (not in my case as it came from the factory apparently cranked down too hard when installed.) The nut at the top of the jet loosens and it does not allow proper seating of the valve in the closed position (keeps it open.)

I was sent a video regarding how to fix the issue. So, now I have to open up my brand new machine to perform a repair even before I have plugged it in or added water, or pulled the first shot.

September 10th, 2022, 3:29 pm

Paris92 wrote: I was sent a video regarding how to fix the issue. So, now I have to open up my brand new machine to perform a repair even before I have plugged it in or added water, or pulled the first shot.

i know that seems like a bummer, but it's actually not an entirely bad thing. it will give you confidence to open the machine and troubleshoot it. it's not "if" you will ever have to do it, but when. might as well get it over with.

September 10th, 2022, 3:55 pm

Yeah, I get that, and that I expect to have to do the PM and repairs myself... but I did not expect to have to take the machine apart at Day Zero to start it up correctly. Not for a machine that costs this much.

September 10th, 2022, 4:06 pm

unfortunately, sh*t happens and the size and weight of these machines just make it impractical to ship back for all but the very worst issues and there's no in-home repair network.

i get your disappointment, but it's just the nature of the beast. embrace the suck and make it a learning experience. you will find there is satisfaction in solving the problem yourself and understanding the machine a little better.

i invested in a set of metric service wrenches from harbor freight and recommend them. they will pay for themselves over the life of the machine and greatly reduce the chance of accidentally scratching the nice stainless finish.

September 10th, 2022, 7:59 pm

Paris92 wrote: I assume it is sized so it clears the front panel of the machine in the 12 o'clock position.

The paddle is not sized to clear the front.... as I wanted it to look somewhat like a "Slayer" paddle.... which I love the look off...... and to be longer so ones finger traveled a longer arc to provide finer "intuitive" control.... especially in the closed to 1/4 open range..... which on my machine gives 2 to 6 bar fine presure control at certain critical extraction times (ie pre infusion and ramp down towards the end of extraction).

I've set the close point with it at 10 oclock (ie alsmost touching the front panel)..... and in use don't see any flow increase at all past about 4 oclock with a properly prepared dose in the basket. Without a puck in the group head there is still plenty of flow for flushing......

Fwiw.... this was my second attemp at a paddle..... here is the first.... I only have hand files, sand paper and a drill.... so can't get to fancy.

#108: Post by **Paris92** » September 11th, 2022, 7:28 pm

Paris92 wrote:Well, I spoke with WLL, and it appears my FC unit has a "range of motion" issue. This appears to be a common issue with these valves if they are cranked down too hard (not in my case as it came from the factory apparently cranked down too hard when installed.) The nut at the top of the jet loosens and it does not allow proper seating of the valve in the closed position (keeps it open.)

I was sent a video regarding how to fix the issue. So, now I have to open up my brand new machine to perform a repair even before I have plugged it in or added water, or pulled the first shot.

Update: Bought a 19mm wrench as noted in the repair video (I did not have a 19mm... figured it would be a good investment anyway), in order to loosen and spin out the lower half of the FC device after removing it from the group. Not happening. I have attempted to do this several times, using great force; and even a few attempts with my wife holding one wrench, and me holding the other. It will not budge loose.

I have also scratched the top of the unit I think, even with using several layers of electrical tape on the wrench and on the unit. It is hard to tell because all of the pressure applied left some of the tape glue residue on the chrome part. I will need to use goo-gone or similar to clean that off to check for scratches and any damage.

I assume that this particular part was assembled and tightened way too tight at the factory or at WLL, and thus is probably contributing to the original issue I had with the FC range of motion.

Trying to keep a positive outlook, but my brand new and never used multi-thousand $ machine is DOA at the moment.

September 11th, 2022, 7:33 pm

WD-40 works great for removing adhesive residue and most people have a can laying around.

September 11th, 2022, 7:36 pm

Good point, and yes, I do.