Converting a pourover espresso machine to direct connect - Page 2

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Spirit72

#11: Post by Spirit72 »

Direct connect Anita, how to do it:

1. Remove the outer shell

2. Drill a hole in the back of the outer shell.


3. Install the solenoid valve to the back of the outer shell.




4. Disconnect the magnetic float switch and jump the switch with the jumper provided.




5. Attach the black plastic tube provide with the kit to the discharge tube going into the tank.


The discharge tube is the one coming from the tee shown bellow


What you are doing is rerouting the discharge tube that comes from your expansion valve, from it's original position, in the water tank and diverting it to the drip tray.

6. Drill a hole into the front panel and into the drip tray to install the black plastic discharge tube.
I have used the rubber grommet provided with the kit into the hole of the front panel for the installation of the black plastic discharge.


7. Remove the two wire on the pump and install the wire harness provided with the kit. The end with the piggyback connectors go onto the pump.


Reattach the two wires you originally took off the pump to the piggyback connectors.


8. Pull the green connection off the terminal block.



Connect the green piggyback connector to the connection on the terminal block and slide the green connector you took off to the piggyback connector.


9. Now it's time to connect the other end of the wire harness to the solenoid valve at the back of the cover. Connect also the silicone tube to the barbed top of the solenoid valve.




10. Put the outer shell back on.

11. Connect the braided water line to the fitting protruding from the back panel.

12. Connect to the water supply and adjust the water regulator between 0.5 and 0.75 bar.





Enjoy! :D

Beezer

#12: Post by Beezer »

Wow, great description and pictures. Thanks for posting that.

So, I assume you have it hooked up to a water softener/filter system as well? Did you get that from Chris too?
Lock and load!

Spirit72

#13: Post by Spirit72 »

My first step was to direct connect my Anita. I was not 100% certain that it would work out. I have search many forum and I could not find anyone who have done it before. Now that it's done, my next upgrade is to install a water softener/filter system as well.

Beezer

#14: Post by Beezer »

Yup, I wouldn't wait too long to install that filter/softener if I were you. Scale buildup is not your friend.

How hard was it to drill holes in the stainless steel case? Seems like you'd need a special bit at least to get through the metal.
Lock and load!

Spirit72

#15: Post by Spirit72 »

Drilling holes in the stainless steel was easy. Regular steel bit for metal will do the job.

I have use my drill press for the holes in the casing and the drip tray.

For the hole in the front panel I have use my cordless drill.

The water filtration system will be install shortly. :)

pdx

#16: Post by pdx »

LeoZ wrote:just wanted to reply and close this out in case anyone is searching. float kit installed today; it went decently.
Careful- I had the float kit installed on an Isomac in my kitchen for a couple of years. One day the pressurestat stuck on, melted all kinds of parts, and the float valve flooded my kitchen. It was a total mess. This was what finally convinced me to step up to a really well-built machine with redundant safety systems, designed to be plumbed in.
Ben King.

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Rybolt

#17: Post by Rybolt »

pdx wrote:One day the pressurestat stuck on, melted all kinds of parts, and the float valve flooded my kitchen. It was a total mess.
If I did this, I would probably have a shut-off valve on the inbound water line, that I would shut-off nightly. I know not everyone prefers this, but I don't like the idea of a.) my machine being on b.)some after market plumbing assembly being active while I am in bed or away from home. I currently only have my machine on when I am home/awake. :)
pdx wrote: This was what finally convinced me to step up to a really well-built machine with redundant safety systems, designed to be plumbed in.
p..s curious to know what you found that met this criteria?

pdx

#18: Post by pdx »

Rybolt wrote:pIf I did this, I would probably have a shut-off valve on the inbound water line, that I would shut-off nightly.
Inconvenient, but probably a great idea.
Rybolt wrote:p..s curious to know what you found that met this criteria?
Synesso Cyncra 110v.
Ben King.

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Rybolt

#19: Post by Rybolt »

Spirit72 wrote: 5. Attach the black plastic tube provide with the kit to the discharge tube going into the tank.
<image>

The discharge tube is the one coming from the tee shown bellow
<image>

What you are doing is rerouting the discharge tube that comes from your expansion valve, from it's original position, in the water tank and diverting it to the drip tray.
Thanks for the walk through! I have a couple questions (prob. trivial).

1. Why do we have to reroute the discharge tube?
2. The hole drilled in the back (lower right hand corner if facing the back) is just to "mount" the solenoid valve? I am confused on the water path. Can't determine from pics why there are 2 holes in back?

p.s. Anyway you could scan the installation instructions that came with it to PDF and post?

Thanks.

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networkcrasher

#20: Post by networkcrasher »

Rybolt wrote:p..s curious to know what you found that met this criteria?
This is what I ended up with (main website here - note the leak controller is the one I have - not the CX). I also purchased an extra leak sensor. I have one sensor under my machine on the counter top (on top of a paper towel to widen the "sensor's" area of detection), as well as one under my filters in the cabinet below. Works like a champ upon testing. The unit can be manually operated to shut off mains for changing filters, and the other neat feature is it will sound an alarm if the battery is dying, if the unit has not been tested for 2 years, or if the unit has detected water. It's a spring loaded valve, so there's no mechanically driven actuator inside, just a "catch."

John Guest connections to boot.