Converting La Marzocco GS3 to U.S. Split Phase 230V for high wattage heaters

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AssafL
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#1: Post by AssafL »

Moderator Note: Discussion split from If La Marzocco makes a GS3 V2, what changes would you like to see?
pcrussell50 wrote:For GS/3, I would want a 230V option, along with 230V boiler control logic, as an option for USA versions. And Jake valve, which I am already using in a different machine.

-Peter
All I think you need to do is to replace the two heaters with their 230V counterpart (3 bolts each), and wire the other phase of the 115V (of the split phase 230V) to the return of the boilers, which according to the diagram linked below (but check it out), is at the SSR. Simple. Everything else stays the same. I marked the split-phase wiring as -F below.

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Mayhem
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#2: Post by Mayhem »

AssafL wrote:All I think you need to do is to replace the two heaters with their 220V counterpart (3 bolts each), and wire the other phase of the 110V (of the split phase 220V) to the return of the boilers, which according to the diagram linked below (but check it out), is at the SSR. Simple. Everything else stays the same.
Aren't the pump and solenoids also specific to the mains voltage? At least they are according to the parts catalog.

There are also tons of variants listed for the 3d5 brainbox, but I think mains voltage is set with a jumper and the only difference is whether it is pre-installed or not. The rest of the versions maybe corresponds to which firmware is installed? I know La Marzocco changed which button goes in and out of standby but that boards (and buttons) with the old layout would still be available.
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AssafL (original poster)
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#3: Post by AssafL (original poster) »

Mayhem wrote:Aren't the pump and solenoids also specific to the mains voltage? At least they are according to the parts catalog.
220V in the US is a split phase 220v. Which means that each "phase" has 110v to the center (neutral) and 220v between the two out-of-phase live conductors.

What I am suggesting is to keep the 110v-to-neutral for all the machine. Just hook up the out-of-phase 110v (which forms 220v) instead of the return to the heaters (the SSRs).

So the heaters get 220v. Every other consumer gets 110v. Replace the heaters with 220v ones and you have a split phase 220v machine.
There are also tons of variants listed for the 3d5 brainbox, but I think mains voltage is set with a jumper and the only difference is whether it is pre-installed or not. The rest of the versions maybe corresponds to which firmware is installed? I know La Marzocco changed which button goes in and out of standby but that boards (and buttons) with the old layout would still be available.
There are many 3d5 variants. But the ones that are okay for the GS3 (AFAIK) can be programmed for both keypads. FWIW - there is no logic on the button board. Just buttons. So it is a different mapping of the buttons.
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blondica73
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#4: Post by blondica73 »

AssafL wrote:Moderator Note: Discussion split from If La Marzocco makes a GS3 V2, what changes would you like to see?



All I think you need to do is to replace the two heaters with their 220V counterpart (3 bolts each), and wire the other phase of the 110V (of the split phase 220V) to the return of the boilers, which according to the diagram linked below (but check it out), is at the SSR. Simple. Everything else stays the same. I marked the split-phase wiring as -F below.

image
I wonder if anyone has this diagram for linea Mini.

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JohnB.
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#5: Post by JohnB. »

AssafL wrote:220V in the US is a split phase 220v. Which means that each "phase" has 110v to the center (neutral) and 220v between the two out-of-phase live conductors.
We don't have 220/110v in the U.S. we have 240v/120v which can vary slightly up or down in different areas. I'm out in the country & get 234v/117v.
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homeburrero
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#6: Post by homeburrero replying to JohnB. »

Yes, but it's still very common and acceptable to use the old terms 110 and 220 for North American voltages even though that's no longer what we actually have. If you tell your electrical contractor you need a 220 line, they will know what you mean, and likely use that term as well. And to add more confusion, some things, like receptacles, are described by their rated voltage, which would be 125V and 250V.
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AssafL (original poster)
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#7: Post by AssafL (original poster) »

JohnB. wrote:We don't have 220/110v in the U.S. we have 240v/120v which can vary slightly up or down in different areas. I'm out in the country & get 234v/117v.
Then your boiler will boil even faster!
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AssafL (original poster)
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#8: Post by AssafL (original poster) »

A note and warning about the naming of the thread (which is sort of misleading):

this isn't about converting a GS3 to 220/230. That would require swapping all the consumers (heaters, pump, 3 solenoids) and setting the 3d5 voltage correctly.

This is about converting a 110 machine to split phase 220. The important distinction is that is a split phase 220 you have both 110v and 220v and can therefore get away with just replacing the heaters.
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lain2097
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#9: Post by lain2097 »

To a load, it does not matter if the L1 and N are 240v and 0 or 120v and 120v out of phase as the difference between the two are still 240v.

Yes in North America domestic 240v is delivered by two L1 L2 at 120v each 180 degrees apart. Which if tied to only one of them with respect to N is 120v. Respect to each other are 240v apart. Same idea as triple phase 208/120 or 600/373 which are common commercial service. As well 240v appliances tend to be wired with L1, L2, N and G. If there's no N, then chassis ground should be connected. Neutral and Earth ground are not supposed to be tied, N is the CT of whatever xfmr feeds the service. And G is supposed to be earthed.

A native 230v 50hz part such as a motor will probably be okay running at 60hz at the same 230-240v - the reverse is not true!

Check if the solenoids are not at mains but 24v DC off brainbox or something.

At minimum I'd expect to change the motor and elements.

Question is why? Just run a 20A 120v circuit to your GS/3.

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JohnB.
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#10: Post by JohnB. »

homeburrero wrote:Yes, but it's still very common and acceptable to use the old terms 110 and 220 for North American voltages even though that's no longer what we actually have. If you tell your electrical contractor you need a 220 line, they will know what you mean, and likely use that term as well. And to add more confusion, some things, like receptacles, are described by their rated voltage, which would be 125V and 250V.
It's certainly common on this forum but it's surprising when it comes from members who post on electrical mods & issues regularly. Might be time to start posting the correct information since the change happened 52 ? years ago..
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