The stuff sounds interesting and useful for other things. It reminds me a little of the product we put on mountain bike frames to protect the paint from chain slap, except it didn't remove easily.

RegulatorJohnson wrote:
and it peels off fairly easy and leaves behind no sticky booger residue!

My concern would be that the heated surface would change the nature of the glue and cause it to leave residue. Let us know how it works out on your Expobar!

edwa wrote:The stuff sounds interesting and useful for other things. It reminds me a little of the product we put on mountain bike frames to protect the paint from chain slap, except it didn't remove easily.

i had one on my ipod nano. i lasted so great!!! then the nano died. i was worried that i couldn't get it off and my warranty would be void. i drove to the place and talked to the guy who installs them onto ipods for those who cant do it themselves. anyway i asked him the proper way to remove it. he just peeled it off, straight up, no chemicals, no goop left over. no damage. i was amazed. then on top of it they gave me a new free one because the first one actually scratched. the clear stuff but not the ipod under. so he goes look a scratch, peeled it off, then goes in the back room to get a replacement.

then he told me about someone skiing with a ipod video. they dropped it off the lift.. !! when the got back down to pick it up people had been running over it with skis and snowboards..!! the sharp metal snowboard edges under peoples weight didnt cut through the shield.
it was scratched but did not cut through. they peeled off the old shield and gave the lady a new shield. her ipod was unharmed, not even water damage.

edwa wrote:My concern would be that the heated surface would change the nature of the glue and cause it to leave residue. Let us know how it works out on your Expobar!

i wonder how hot the leading surface of a blackhawk helicopter blade gets? i cant get over how serious a project it is to make something for this purpose. if it failed and got twisted in the blades it could probably seriously damage a fairly expensive chopper.

i think that this area of the machine may not even get that hot anyway. maybe some steam but overall its still not too hot touch bare handed.

i will find out more. i kind of passed it on through my head but it could be a neat solution.

jon

hi all.

update:::

just left a meeting with the owners of the shield provider. i will have some patterns cut out to fit my pulser.

they said it will work great. i will test it and let everyone know how it works.

does anyone have a suggestion for a specific machine they would like to have a shield for? so far im thinkin silvia, pulser, livia.. any others?

i have a relationship in place with these guys to help me provide custom patterns.

jon

RegulatorJohnson wrote:
does anyone have a suggestion for a specific machine they would like to have a shield for? so far im thinkin silvia, pulser, livia.. any others?

I might be able to lose the tins off of my Silvia for a short while if they need a template, and provide a review of the lifespan of the shield when I travel with her next, if they're interested. Are they thinking that they'd have the shields on the drip-tray cover, too?

Psyd wrote:I might be able to lose the tins off of my Silvia for a short while if they need a template, and provide a review of the lifespan of the shield when I travel with her next, if they're interested. Are they thinking that they'd have the shields on the drip-tray cover, too?

that would be awesome.

they are giving me a great opportunity to develop products under their brand using their film. so, i am actually the one with the decision to make on what actual templates get made. i will be drawing the paths the plotter will follow as well.

i think the back of the silvia is a plain rectangle? no holes for switches or lights? i will definitely flow you one to use and abuse. the drip tray cover is probably do-able as well.

jon

I don't want to overstate the obvious but a moist piece of chamois cloth works for me -- and another on my car (definitely *NOT* the same one!). If you're a PETA member and want to save the wild chamois, there are sham chamois that work *nearly* as well.

With my Gaggia Coffee, the stainless surfaces are limited to the cup warmer and the drip tray. The cup warmer is the more obvious surface for water spots -- but I wipe down the drip tray as well. Cleanliness is next to Godliness -- or something like that.

Just my $0.02.
t++

k7qz wrote:OK, I searched the site a couple of different ways but didn't come up with much, so a penny for your thoughts: The nice new shiny stainless on my machine is getting spotted and stained behind the grouphead despite diligence in wiping it clean after each use.......I'm wondering if there is anything else you super baristas use to clean the spotting/staining from your stainless? Thanks-

This may be more than what you're looking for in this situtation. This is a serious answer for simple chemical based issues and the even more heartbreaking mechanical finish issues. From their website......

Scratch-B-Gone is your first aid kit for Stainless steel. Restore Solutions Stainless steel Scratch-B-Gone has been used in the field for years to permanently remove scratches, stains and rust from all brushed surfaces on Stainless steel appliances, grills and sinks. Now you, too, can bring back the original appearance and beauty to your appliances at a fraction of the cost of replacement.

http://www.restoresolutions.com/product ... l-1000.cfm

WARNING: You may know and understand this, but.........If your stainless surface has any type of clearcoat, do not use this system. The stainless surface must be bare metal. Obviously, if you use an abrasive system to repair a metal surface, the clearcoat will be damaged in the area of repair. This product includes very complete instructions.

Al (KG6ML) in SoCal