Wowsers, Jake! If I followed this correctly, you are talking about a custom machined needle and seat, no? You couldn't incorporate "our" existing Jake valve, could you?

I would almost bet money, LM is already looking at something like this now that we are in the era of "whole shot through the needle". It's just too good, not to.

-Peter

Being that I don't have an MP to tinker with, this will remain a distant dream of what could be. Incorporating our valve would be a distinct possibility, but the basic premise of any such solution is to meter the pressure port and leave the exhaust port wide open. Our valve is small enough to be cobbled into play if needed, but in practice it may be easier to just go with a completely custom solution. If nothing else, you've got the issue of clockwise movement to open the valve to contend with .

If this were an actual paying design gig, I'd look at what is currently there and then work within the confines of the existing parts to maximize functionality, fit and finish, and compatibility with existing off the shelf parts wherever possible (this means that I'd start by looking at the needle valve that lives in the GS/3 thermostatic mixing valves)

Cheers!

-Jake

maximatica wrote:In light of the need/desire of some to shut off the pump with an inline switch, I came across this and thought it might be workable.

If there was an east way to get the antenna outside the case, it might be a nice subtle mod vs. drilling a hole for the switch to protrude etc.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0736 ... KPP9&psc=1

HTH.

Max./

Just so you know, I have already rigged a shutoff switch. It's supremely easy. Did I not share how I did it here in this thread? It's not wireless, mind you.

Yes, positioned outside the machine. I made a cheesy stand/pedestal for it out of some 4 inch diameter gray plastic electrical conduit. This is an area where you can make it as trick and sano as your skill and creativity allows. The color of the conduit is complimentary to the color of my stainless veneer machine. But I cheesed it up with $0.69 ordinary light switch.

By the way re your shower screen link, that is the screen. I'm using that screen but the NT version which is identical except for being "nano quartz" coated. Which I'm not sure makes any difference over the regular one, and is the same price. There is some noise in the message traffic that the coated one might not stand up to espresso detergent, so I remove mine before detergent back flush. that The brass diffuser is nifty. Haven't seen that one before. Thanks for the point to that link, btw.

-Peter

Very good, curiosity piquing post. I do not remember what Phil said about heat and the dispersion screen. Might have to search up some of his old posts.

1) The old -900 dispersion screens were aluminum coated with some kind non stick coating. The durability issue here was that the coating bubbled up for some people and caused some very light corrosion underneath. I think the issue here was not performance, but concern over possible health effects. This would have high conductivity like brass.

2) The current one is plastic. No durability issues that I've heard of. No coating to come off. The plastic feels like a phenolic resin, which has high thermal conductivity as plastics go. Phenolics are not thermoplastics, which can deform or melt in the presence of heat.

3) Yes, I use the IMS screen directly on the stock dispersion screen. Somebody else did a measurement and it's half or one mm smaller than the stock screen. No complaints about the fit.

The gadget geek in me is intrigued by the brass dispersion. Although I have my doubts if it will make significantly better espresso.

-Peter