Breville Dual Boiler "Slayer shots"? - Page 33

#321: Post by **Quester** » March 11th, 2019, 1:42 pm

johnny4lsu wrote:I had the same problem.

Here's the best solution. Works amazing.

Metalwork Metric Push In To Connect Tubing Quick Cap Plug Fitting, 4mm Tube OD. (Pack of 10) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FPTS6F4/re ... HCbG2JZDJ1

I was just looking at those. It's probably not a big deal, but they are only rated to 70℃. And to error on the safe side, it would be nice to know for sure they wouldn't leach something toxic out. Having said that, I'm still looking at them . . .

March 11th, 2019, 2:22 pm

There is no flow in that region so both leaching and temperature issues are likely as small as they can be. But if you want to be even more sure, you can shop fittings at for the popular super autos like Juras. They have a lot of push lock plastic fittings to choose from. I bet they are made of the same stuff. But I can't assure it.

Another thought about leaching... traditional espresso machine metals copper and brass both leach. In fact, CA has a prop 65 warning on them. The user must decide his comfort level here.

If the plug material remains an issue for you I still say you route your water line from the solenoid to the spigot, and buy yourself a silicone oven mitt or silicone cupcake cup and cut yourself a disc/plug from that. It worked first try for me, Ryan, and others. Johnny4LSU had a unique problem that precludes him from it. Happy to talk you through it if you need. Do you know how to post pics?

-Peter

-Peter

#323: Post by **Quester** » March 11th, 2019, 2:47 pm

Peter, I was thinking about ordering these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GF ... UTF8&psc=1

And I get two cups I don't have to cut in the deal!

My BDB is up in the mountains, but I'm headed there for spring break. This mod will be done my first day there. Thanks to Jake_G and you for trailblazing and making this possible.

March 11th, 2019, 3:15 pm

I see you have a -900. If you haven't replaced the o-rings on top of the steam boiler, you're overdue. Have a good look around while you have the cover off and the machine warmed up. Do not burn yourself or shock yourself. Wiggle the water tubes on top of the steam boiler and make sure they don't hiss. That is your indicator of an o-ring that needs replacement. They are size #007. At the age of your machine, I would just do them all, if you haven't already. Obviously you do this when it's cool. They use the same hairpin clip form factor as the tubes you will reroute for the needle valve flow mod any. Would be smart to remove, disassemble and clean the solenoid too, though it won't hurt anything if you don't, or else new ones are about $42.

-Peter

#325: Post by **Quester** » March 11th, 2019, 3:43 pm

Just ordered the o-rings. Good idea.

#326: Post by **mrjag** » March 11th, 2019, 4:58 pm

I went with this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KWTGAVQ/

March 11th, 2019, 5:11 pm

Quester wrote:Just ordered the o-rings. Good idea.

You only need to replace the water tube o-rings. But if you are a maintenance nerd, you could pull the sensors and put a light smear of food-safe silicone on the o-ring, and just put it right back. It's rare that those o-rings go bad. Every barista ought to have a tube of food safe silicone in his kit.

-Peter

#328: Post by **rosslyn568** » March 12th, 2019, 1:22 pm

johnny4lsu wrote: Metalwork Metric Push In To Connect Tubing Quick Cap Plug Fitting, 4mm Tube OD. (Pack of 10) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FPTS6F4/re ... HCbG2JZDJ1

My problem with these is that the tubing to the hot water valve is completely scaled over and isn't about to come out (downside of a craiglist find on the machine). I don't really want to cut the tubing, so I think I'm stuck leaving that end where it is. I'll likely go with the silicone stopper in the hot water valve instead.

With regard to the solenoid, mine's starting to rattle and I wouldn't mind replacing it, but I haven't been able to find one in stock anywhere. Everywhere I look seems backordered. It makes me a little nervous to take it apart to clean as well, just in case I can't get it back together and can't get a new one. Probably just being overly cautious on my end

March 12th, 2019, 2:29 pm

Definitely get a solenoid (and maybe a sparse), when they come back in stocks, but I've had great luck disassembling and cleaning and returning to service.

-Peter

#330: Post by **rosslyn568** » March 16th, 2019, 5:13 pm

Alright, it's the weekend and I've had some time to play around. Full disclosure, I just got a new grinder and am still dialing it in, but I thought I'd share my progress. I don't have a shot mirror yet, so apologies for the poor viewing angle.

First off, here's a shot of the flow rate control. I've noticed the machine sounds like it's choking when the needle valve is almost shut - is that bad? I also see what others have said about the stock needle being a bit difficult to control.

Here's an actual shot being pulled. Preinfusion power is at 62 for 15 sec, and I run it partially open. Right before the pump kicks to full power, I close the needle valve almost completely, then crack it a tiny bit and slowly open it until the machine stops whining at me. Towards the end of the shot, I dial it back to a lower flow rate.

My concern is that my shots seem to rise in pressure far faster than others posted on this thread. You can see the dial rise quickly after preinfusion. Am I doing something wrong?

I'm also a bit concerned by how the pump sounds like it's constantly struggling. Shots have been tasty though.