Breville Dual Boiler Mods and Maintenance - Page 89

Need help with equipment usage or want to share your latest discovery?
nmgeek

#881: Post by nmgeek »

nmgeek wrote:Is there a definitive maintenance troubleshooting guide for the dual boiler machines? ... a "no water flow" problem ... caused by a failed solenoid (open circuit in coil).
Since it's not covered well in the pinned document: Pump noise but no flow through the group head can be caused by a burned out solenoid coil. If you measure an open circuit across the solenoid that is definitely the problem.

While the coil is a part of a solenoid-and-valve assembly, I found the exact replacement solenoid on ebay, shipped from Germany. It cost less than buying the entire assembly and I didn't have to worry so much about the mechanical/plumbing bits of the part not being compatible. Some recommended what they thought was a higher quality version of this part, which is supposedly a standard espresso machine part, but I didn't want to risk incompatibility when parts take three weeks to ship from Germany (and longer from Australia).

Also, I found zero evidence of scale inside the valve. Maybe the descale function in the newer model takes care of that mode of failure.

BaristaBob

#882: Post by BaristaBob »

majs2009 wrote:Is there a way to stop the puck from sticking to the shower screen after pulling a shot on the BDB? Could it be the basket causing the issue? I use 18 g VST basket...
Yes there is...use a dispersion screen on top of your prepped puck. It will never stick again. Dealers on Etsy sell them for $10 to $15. One cautionary note...the screen will now stick to the puck, but it's much easier to remove and less messy than getting it off the shower screen.
Bob "hello darkness my old friend..I've come to drink you once again"

mns

#883: Post by mns »

did you manage to get them out?! having the same trouble here...just cant get them out !

maximatica
Supporter ♡

#884: Post by maximatica »

The issue of the puck sticking to the dispersion screen is all related to the height of the puck.

The machine comes with a tool to help you ensure that the puck is at the right height.



I have read posts from people denigrating the tool as if it is not helpful and that it confirms that the machine is for uneducated users.

But the use of the tool and the instructions to use the relationship of the edge of the tamp to the edge of the portafilter holder as a guide eliminates this issue (actually, it never happens if you start out using the tool and guidelines).

And the BDB can produce a higher quality shot much more easily than any E61 that costs less than $2500. I know because I used an E61 for about 12 years and fine-tuned everything to get it right on the money.

It's a piece of cake to get the same or better extractions with the BDB.

I had worked out the height of the puck issue years ago while using my Isomac Millenium. It took months of trial and error to convince myself that a .5 to 2 mm difference was all it took to make a large change in the espresso.

It must have to do with the space allowing a certain pressure level to be created against the puck. Something having to do with the 9 bar and the airspace above the puck. A person who is well versed in hydraulics is who you might know the answer.

Too little space and there is less pressure, too much, and it is a watery faster, flowing extraction. If you have it vary from shot to shot, it's why you can't get things dialed in.

Eliminate that variable, and things get easier. Now you can focus on the grind and then temp.

It was when I saw that they included the Razor as a calibration tool that I knew that the BDB development team had done their homework and knew their stuff.

I get the best experience with 20 grams, 55 seconds, 15 seconds pre-infusion, and 40 seconds at 9 bar. I am sure if I bother to drop to 8 bar, it will get even better. It did on my E61.

HTH.

SKD45

#885: Post by SKD45 »

Hey Team,
I'm attempting to replace the brew boiler fuse on my 920, but have no idea how to remove the flat paddle end from the boiler probe. Has anyone had any luck with this?

luvmy40

#886: Post by luvmy40 » replying to SKD45 »

Not sure what you mean. A picture of what you are talking about might help.

When I did my thermal fuse, I disconnected everything from the top of the steam boiler, removed the boiler mounting screws and lifted the boiler as much as possible. Then I soldered a new fuse in on the factory wireing harness. I had a set of helping hands for this.

SKD45

#887: Post by SKD45 »



Trying to remove this red fuse to replace it with the new one I have ordered. Soldering iron?

luvmy40

#888: Post by luvmy40 » replying to SKD45 »


I see now. Yes, a soldering iron. Or, just cut the wires and use butt connectors or wire nuts to splice in the new wire assy.

Strobes47+

#889: Post by Strobes47+ »

Anyone do any aesthetic upgrades to their machines? Particularly with the knob/lever? I really feel like those are the cheapest feelings components in day-to-day use, but I see next to nothing in terms of third party replacement knobs.

Bathory00

#890: Post by Bathory00 »

Hey everyone, first time poster here. Purchased a second-hand BDB a few weeks ago knowing it had a steam leak on one of the boilers and that the prior owner used really heavy water. Today, after receiving my orings I decided to pop open the top and see the damage. Long story short there's a lot more calcification and rust than I imagined.


My plan of attack was going to be removing all of the tubes, replacing their orings and then cleaning off the absurd calcification with a metal scrubber and a mix of CLR and water.

In this case does it also make sense to also undo the screws and remove the boiler to check for any calcification or rusting on the bottom-side of the boiler? Should I also replace the tubes too? I noticed some calcification on the inside of the one in the image attached.