Breville Dual Boiler Mods and Maintenance - Page 84

Need help with equipment usage or want to share your latest discovery?
luvmy40
Posts: 1143
Joined: 4 years ago

#831: Post by luvmy40 »

Neil1971 wrote:Hey all,
I hope its ok for mew to post into this thread. Its my first post here!
So, I have a BES920 that I've had new since 2015, the service menu tells me that ive done 5650 shots!
Its been perfect until now, and its only now of course that I wished I'd taken the top panel off sooner and had a look inside.
Its been overheating intermittently and making the gurgling sounds, of course I shouldn't have ignored the warning signs for this long!

So, I know that I need to replace the o-rings, but as you can see in then pic, one of the sensors is completely corroded and broken off.. do you know if I can replace this? or will the machine still operate without this sensor?

when i switch the machine on now t correctly comes up to temperature (93C) but the connections on the steam boiler start to leak/bubble.
Is its possible to disconect power to just the steam boiler so that effectively I can operate as just 'espresso' extraction?

Many thanks in advance
Neil
image
image
No, you cannot operate the BDB without the steam boiler energized. The controller relies on the SB heat exchanger for precise temp control.

The corroded sensor is one of the water level probes. New probes are available from outwestcoffee.com https://outwestcoffee.com.au/index.php/ ... -included/
They come with new o=rings. Do yourself a favor and replace all of the o-rings in the steam circuit. They are cheap and the work is fairly easy. The one on the side of the steam boiler is the hardest to gat at, but it's doable.

luvmy40
Posts: 1143
Joined: 4 years ago

#832: Post by luvmy40 »

Neil1971 wrote:Hey all,
I hope its ok for mew to post into this thread. Its my first post here!
So, I have a BES920 that I've had new since 2015, the service menu tells me that ive done 5650 shots!
Its been perfect until now, and its only now of course that I wished I'd taken the top panel off sooner and had a look inside.
Its been overheating intermittently and making the gurgling sounds, of course I shouldn't have ignored the warning signs for this long!

So, I know that I need to replace the o-rings, but as you can see in then pic, one of the sensors is completely corroded and broken off.. do you know if I can replace this? or will the machine still operate without this sensor?

when i switch the machine on now t correctly comes up to temperature (93C) but the connections on the steam boiler start to leak/bubble.
Is its possible to disconect power to just the steam boiler so that effectively I can operate as just 'espresso' extraction?

Many thanks in advance
Neil
image
image
No, you cannot operate the BDB without the steam boiler energized. The controller relies on the SB heat exchanger for precise temp control.

The corroded sensor is one of the water level probes. New probes are available from outwestcoffee.com https://outwestcoffee.com.au/index.php/ ... -included/
They come with new o=rings. Do yourself a favor and replace all of the o-rings in the steam circuit. They are cheap and the work is fairly easy. The one on the side of the steam boiler is the hardest to get at, but it's doable.

Three Lions
Posts: 5
Joined: 2 years ago

#833: Post by Three Lions »

luvmy40 wrote:Do yourself a favor and replace all of the o-rings in the steam circuit. They are cheap and the work is fairly easy. The one on the side of the steam boiler is the hardest to get at, but it's doable.
I'd also add... Get a tiny tube of silicone grease. It makes the O-ring installation a little easier, and I think it helps improve the seal. I bought this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000D ... UTF8&psc=1

It was cheap.

iyayy
Posts: 254
Joined: 2 years ago

#834: Post by iyayy »

small update.

got my machine at 9 bar flat with blind basket, on brewing i'll target my grinds to 8~8.5bar.

didnt really taste difference to 9.5bar, but longer has channeling due to puck break. in my case dropping from 10.5 to 9.5 removes a lot of bitter astrigency on a lot of beans and allow a more controllable and slightly longer shots.. more yields of non bitter shots.

with df64, ssp mp, vst15 machine has given me enough control for me to pretty much dial well any random beans i got my hands on, any roasts, and with very intense flavor on the cup. 1:15 coffee to milk ratio easily retains coffee taste and aroma.

I am now VERY satisfied with the controls, consistency, and brew result. ji ust still need much more skill on latte art T_T.

i dont see myself going up unless i can have more control and consistency on the settings, but thats already at a cost that would give me options to have premium geishas for several years, and that seems more sensible for my enjoyment.

i'll continue trying out new beans and roasters, with much anticipation.

thanks for this great thread for pushing me to the bdb. (i read all of it btw before buying btw).

enjoy your coffee.

danks
Posts: 24
Joined: 2 years ago

#835: Post by danks »

Hi, I got a sage dual boiler yesterday(friend threw it) and when I switch it on it displays Err3 and all frozen. When I enter into alarms menu I see only 04 coming everyone I turn it on. Does anyone had a similar issue and has a fix for it?
I checked both thermal fuses on group head boiler and both has continuity and healthy.

All suggestions welcome.

Thanks,

BaristaBob
Posts: 1866
Joined: 6 years ago

#836: Post by BaristaBob »

iyayy wrote:small update.

got my machine at 9 bar flat with blind basket, on brewing i'll target my grinds to 8~8.5bar.

didnt really taste difference to 9.5bar, but longer has channeling due to puck break. in my case dropping from 10.5 to 9.5 removes a lot of bitter astrigency on a lot of beans and allow a more controllable and slightly longer shots.. more yields of non bitter shots.

with df64, ssp mp, vst15 machine has given me enough control for me to pretty much dial well any random beans i got my hands on, any roasts, and with very intense flavor on the cup. 1:15 coffee to milk ratio easily retains coffee taste and aroma.

I am now VERY satisfied with the controls, consistency, and brew result. ji ust still need much more skill on latte art T_T.

i dont see myself going up unless i can have more control and consistency on the settings, but thats already at a cost that would give me options to have premium geishas for several years, and that seems more sensible for my enjoyment.

i'll continue trying out new beans and roasters, with much anticipation.

thanks for this great thread for pushing me to the bdb. (i read all of it btw before buying btw).

enjoy your coffee.
Nice to hear...enjoy the ride!
Bob "hello darkness my old friend..I've come to drink you once again"

danks
Posts: 24
Joined: 2 years ago

#837: Post by danks »

So fault.code is 4 and as per internet it is about group head thermal elements, does anybody know where those are located?
danks wrote:Hi, I got a sage dual boiler yesterday(friend threw it) and when I switch it on it displays Err3 and all frozen. When I enter into alarms menu I see only 04 coming everyone I turn it on. Does anyone had a similar issue and has a fix for it?
I checked both thermal fuses on group head boiler and both has continuity and healthy.

All suggestions welcome.

Thanks,

mashi
Posts: 8
Joined: 4 years ago

#838: Post by mashi »

i wonder what rotary pump used used in lh's black and white 920.

Fuddermucker
Posts: 5
Joined: 2 years ago

#839: Post by Fuddermucker »

Hey all, this is my first post and I hope this is an okay spot to put it. I recently found a BDB at a Goodwill for $200 just marked as "coffee maker". I knew what it was and wanted my first machine, so as someone who was already aware of this forum I took the plunge and thought this might be a good fixer-upper and good intro to espresso.

The machine is actually in pretty decent condition, especially for $200. I have done some research here and found that one of the first things that may need to be checked and replaced are various o-rings. I have replaced a couple, however I am having a problem with the top of the OPV leaking water right above the o-ring and metal clip. I replaced this o-ring and it still leaks. I tried another o-ring and still no good.

I have tried searching around but frankly I suck at finding things on forums and I could not find anything about this.

Water is leaking out of these two areas immediately upon turning the machine on:


I have replaced this o-ring twice with no luck. Upon further inspection, I found that the tube looks like it is split/cracked open. Could this be causing the leak? Sorry for the garbage camera quality.


Other o-rings have been replaced and I only have one other small issue, but this is my biggest hold up right now. Not sure what to do or if this crack in the tube is normal. Any advice is greatly appreciated. I would love to get this machine working again!

User avatar
lancealot
Posts: 1139
Joined: 7 years ago

#840: Post by lancealot »

Crack in the tube is not normal. It could be causing the leak. Some of the connectors have 2 o-rings, stacked. You could try it. If this is not a place that takes the 2 o-ring stack, then you wont be able to put the clip back on to hold the tube in place. I hope that made sense.

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