WEEKLY
• Clean the water tank (although new Breville filter supposed to last 3-4 months)..posted by Spacon.

I was about to post the same! Using either Dr Pavlis "formula" or currently "3rd Wave Water (Espresso formula), I find after about 7-10 days, the inside of the reservoir is "slimy" to the touch. So I remove the reservoir, dump whatever water remains, and pour in a mild bleach/water solution. Using a soft dish brush, I gently swish the solution, and brush clean all surfaces. I then dump the solution, 2/3rds fill with distilled water, and with a clean brush brush all surfaces again...then dump that water. I'll then refill the reservoir with my conditioned water, and replace the reservoir. I like doing a water back flush at that point to be assured all water bearing parts are clean. A clean machine is a happy machine! Merry Christmas to all!

These cleaning tips are good. However, "weekly", "monthly" and "yearly" are based upon time only.

Is there a conversions to # of shots? I only use my machine on the weekends, about 5 shots per day (10 per week).

Only cleaning the water tank (which I've done once in 14 months ) seems to be based on purely time.

11 I-rings later and a few tightenings and HOPEFULLY the leak will be gone. It was really bad around the steam wand lever to the point water was going all around the front and back.

Any suggestions on where to get the white o-rings that are used on the steam wand valve assembly? Those even though we're flipped I'm concerned will need to be replaced eventually.

luvmy40 wrote:At the very least, replace all the small o-rings on the PTFE tubing in the boiler side. All the ones on top of the steam boiler(including the brew HX lines), the fill line on the side of the boiler and the ones on the steam valve and after the steam valve. If you have the larger o-rings for the sensor probes, I'd replace them as well. If you don't have them atleast verify the sensors are not leaking before closing it up. Check the one on the steam boiler fill pump ouput, but it is probably OK as it does not see the high temps.

Replaced the o-rings but looks like leak continues maybe not as bad but it's definitely around the steam valve. I flipped the white seals inside but wondering if I either didn't tighten enough, too much or if I need new seals and if that's the case where do I get those hard plastic white ones? On the thread should any Teflon be used?

You shouldn't need any thread sealant on the valve assembly. I suppose you might not have gotten it back together tight enough. Can you see where it is leaking?

Here's a link to Peter Russles video n the valve repair. He's got several youtube videos on the BDB. All are worth watching.

luvmy40 wrote:You shouldn't need any thread sealant on the valve assembly. I suppose you might not have gotten it back together tight enough. Can you see where it is leaking?

Here's a link to Peter Russles video n the valve repair. He's got several youtube videos on the BDB. All are worth watching.

video

Yup followed it to the T. It was hissing from around the ball portion I think. Definitely nowhere near as bad as it was before and no more or much less drip from the wand itself.

Will need to open it up again.

I'm not sure if this has been mentioned in the 73 page thread, but I did get some insight yesterday from a Breville espresso support rep.

I had noticed that a reasonably strong stream was making it's way out of a certain part of the grouphead screen. Upon investigating I found that the dispersion block was cracked so the water was actually partly making it's way out just above the dispersion screen. I figured easy fix, no problem, but then I found the blistered and chipped coating just above the dispersion block where the water outlet sits. I had read somewhere, I believe in this thread, that some were a bit concerned by this and I recall someone had sent in their machine and got it fully replaced with this issue. I got on the phone with Breville support and they took it in for repair under warranty. Gladly, because I wasn't about to spend C$400, not now.

2 weeks later I get my machine back and, with no paperwork, the dispersion block was replaced, but the internal piece of the grouphead was still blistered and chipped. I was pretty angry about the fact that it looks like I sent my machine in just to replace the dispersion block!!

Long story, short is that they explained that they did the "preventative maintenance" work on my machine and that this blistering is considered a cosmetic issue that they won't repair/replace. I was assured that nothing in the machine that it's in the brew path is toxic and therefore there is NO concern with potential for inappropriate toxicity/grossness stemming from the blistering and chipped piece in the water path. So, I'm happy to have sent it in and gotten it serviced. I will live with the blistered and chipped grouphead piece (whatever it is).

2 things I learned:
1 - Cracked dispersion block is most likely caused by updosing too much and the coffee puck pushing on the screen during brew.
2 - The blistering of the piece around the grouphead's water outlet is caused by poor maintenance. I regularly backflush with both water and detergent at different times so I'm not sure this makes any sense to me for my use case. I'm also confused by how they would use a part that seems to corrode easily without an incredibly diligent cleaning regiment.

I hope some of you found this helpful! I would apologize for the lengthy post, but I liked framing the content since I don't post much!

A+ on that answer Chris. And the more salts in your water source the more galvanic corrosion you will observe.

Thanks for the follow up guys! I was passing on what was told to me. I didn't buy the cleanliness feedback much, but I imagine that's what they're going to tell everyone. In the end, I'm happy that it's fine and doesn't affect the system.