Breville Dual Boiler Mods and Maintenance - Page 69

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koluludome

#681: Post by koluludome »

Searched and found one from CREMA which they was build for subsititute the steam/hot water switch in barista express and infuser. Not sure if it fits the steam knob and hot water knob of BDB or not.

jasiano

#682: Post by jasiano »

ryry wrote:I tried a "spro-over" with my BDB and it gurgled the entire time it was preinfusing at 55% for 90s - afterwards it overheated and threw errors 8 and 10.

TBH I didn't see the value/point in doing this on the BDB. Slayer mod sure - that's a $13k AUD machine where I am, but to mimic effectively a pour over/Nespresso Vertuo?

No doubt I am missing something lolz
-Jason

Down Under

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papadenooj

#683: Post by papadenooj »

Hi all, looking for some advice.

I have a Breville Dual Boiler and recently it started leaking water during my extraction from the top arrow, and sometimes the bottom arrow.



I opened it up to see what might be going on and have found that I definitely have some leakage happening as there is lots of corrosion and rust. I had opened the machine previously, almost exactly a year ago, and did not have any of this leakage or rust. That time it was to replace a solenoid and flip some o-rings, and that repair went fine and fixed the issues I was having at that time. However, it seems that things are much worse this time:











At this point I'm wondering:

A) What part(s) might need replaced based on these images? Any other images you might need to see for a better look?

B) Is it worth doing this myself at this point, or might it be better to send it to the factory, pay the fee, and hope they fix it all?

I appreciate any feedback you can offer!

DaveB

#684: Post by DaveB »

One or both of the steam valve silicone o-rings is leaking, my guess is the one on the bottom. I would remove the valve, clean it up, replace both .007 o-rings, and reuse. The valve is very solidly built and should be fine other than the superficial surface rust. Assuming the wand itself isn't leaking, I would not mess with it otherwise. In the past, replacement steam valves have been hard to impossible to find in stock. Don't know what the current situation is.
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papadenooj

#685: Post by papadenooj »

I appreciate the response @DaveB!

When you say .007 o-rings, are those like any of these on Amazon?
https://www.amazon.com/O-Rings-007-Seals/

Should they be 5/32" ID, 9/32" OD, 1/16" Width? And does it matter if they are silicone, neoprene, or durometer?

Thank you again!

DaveB

#686: Post by DaveB »

Either of the first 2 silicone ones should be the same as OEM. Let us know how it goes.
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mikegray

#687: Post by mikegray »

Hey you guys,

I'd like to replace the pump and OVP in my bdb, as per that amazing video that lots of you people probably know by heart!

I.e. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gmSF7N4MvI4

My problem is sourcing the parts in Switzerland. Finding a 230v EX5 (which seems to be enough for the task, though an EFX5 would apparently be slightly better?) isn't difficult - but I'm drawing blanks on the OPV and fittings. Would you have any tips for me?

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nindustrial

#688: Post by nindustrial »

I'd like to second this request. What parts are recommended for a Brass OPV and pump conversion nowadays? The original description is from a few years ago...

level3ninja

#689: Post by level3ninja »

I'm in Australia, but I used the same Expobar brass OPV part number E614, I just sourced it locally. I used ebay item number 120943451164 "1/8 BSP To 4mm Compression Stud fitting in Nickel plated brass Qty 2" which shipped to me from the UK. These are BSPT and the OPV female thread they screw into is BSPP, so there is a small void left in the bottom of the threads that is best filled by using liquid thread tape and leaving it for 24-48hrs. There is also ebay item number 110861115327 which is the 90° equivalent to the one above. When installing the Teflon tubes into these I reused all the parts that originally held the tube (including silicone O rings which I replaced with new) with the exception of the circlip, you just need to pull out the small SS tube, slide off the brass part, put the top hex part of the compression fitting on the tube, then put the brass part and SS tube back in, then push it hard into the compression fitting base until you can start to tighten the threads. I found that I needed to tighten it down past what felt right, because part of the tightening process the first time actually pushes something into place (been a couple of years, can't remember exactly)