Hello, I wasn't sure if I should start a new thread or not but I had a question about baskets. Does anyone know the actual designed dose for the ones that come with the BDB/Oracle? I bought my own grinder, and from what I've read the oracle overdoses 22g in an 18g basket, so I bought an IMS Barista Pro precision 18g basket. It does fit in the portafilter but it's a lot tighter in the group and I'm having issues with channeling and it sticking to the shower screen. I found Peter's post from 3 years ago about baskets but I'm not sure if things have changed. I'd appreciate any input.

Hey Peter,

I actually got a chance to double check this today. Looked like I missed replacing that particular connection so I thank you for making me double check!
Unfortunately, this did not resolve the pre-infusion issue (darn!)

I think pump replacement will probably be my way to go. Peter did you ever end up fixing this issue yourself? now that you mention replacing the pump did not fix it for you. Did the preinfusion issue get fixed when you flipped your seals?

I think the final few steps I'll take before committing to the pump replacement in the near future is just double checking every seal once again including the one on the side of the steam boiler. that particular connection looks to have a large amount of mineral build up on it so it makes me think that might be from a previous leaking seal.

lastly just further quality of life maintenance:

is there a spec for the sticky hose attached to the solenoid? I'd probably eventually like to replace this for a clean hose.

Has anyone repainted their machine before, I could use some tips? I imagine some kind of enamel paint for metal would work. I've got a few spots on my machine that could use a touch up but I'm just inexperienced in painting this kind of material.

Good morning, Cris...

Juanpablo wrote:Hey Peter,

I actually got a chance to double check this today. Looked like I missed replacing that particular connection so I thank you for making me double check!
Unfortunately, this did not resolve the pre-infusion issue (darn!)

I think pump replacement will probably be my way to go. Peter did you ever end up fixing this issue yourself? now that you mention replacing the pump did not fix it for you. Did the preinfusion issue get fixed when you flipped your seals?

This combination of the picture you posted and some of the content of what you wrote, led me to believe that you checked the wrong thing. First of all, nothing in the picture you posted shows the OPV or even the area where the o-ring resides that might fix your problem.

Second, (see the text I bolded), flipping the seals would not fix this issue. Nor would changing any o-rings on the steam boiler, except the one that comes from the brew pump. In fact, the steam system is not connected in any way to the brew system.

Here is a picture of two pumps and OPVs. The top one is stock, and under the (by now familiar) white silicone boot is a clip and an o-ring. THAT is the o-ring you want to replace:

Juanpablo wrote:I think the final few steps I'll take before committing to the pump replacement in the near future is just double checking every seal once again including the one on the side of the steam boiler. that particular connection looks to have a large amount of mineral build up on it so it makes me think that might be from a previous leaking seal.

Checking every seal is a commendable undertaking. BUT this system is quite fault tolerant. You might do just as well just replacing them as leaks form. There is almost no permanent damage from a small leak unless it goes on for months or years. Remember to NOT screw the cover back down. That way, you can lift it for a look, any time you like. Put the screws aside for safe keeping.

Juanpablo wrote:is there a spec for the sticky hose attached to the solenoid? I'd probably eventually like to replace this for a clean hose.

It is silicone. I do not know the exact size. BUT since all it does is carry only small amounts of waste water to the drain, whatever is on top of the puck when you terminate a shot, it has no physical or sanitary connection to your drink. And since it does not have to handle any pressure, you could literally use whatever hose material will fit right on the barb. I think it is coffee oils that that slowly break down the silicone. But that would be mostly a guess. You could try automotive or marine fuel line. It will most likely be black, but it should stand up to coffee oils if it stands up to petroleum. Also some marine and small engine applications use Tygon, which is yellow and clear. OR you could just stick with the stock silicone.

Juanpablo wrote:Has anyone repainted their machine before, I could use some tips? I imagine some kind of enamel paint for metal would work. I've got a few spots on my machine that could use a touch up but I'm just inexperienced in painting this kind of material.

Ironically, some bloke here did. Fairly recently, too. I think he peeled back the tabs holding on the "skin", so he could paint the whole skin while it hung from a coat hanger without worrying about anything else. IIRC, it was that matte black or dark gray that is popular with special interest cars. It looked pretty good.

-Peter

Hey Peter,

Thanks for taking the time to address my questions.

Sorry to have misled you with my photo and my wording. I definitely did replace the o-rings you showed with your photo. I only circled that connection in blue in my last photo because I had missed that.
I took a few more photos to help show what's going on with my machine as well.
I hope that boot that is lifted up is the o-ring you're referring to in your post, that o-ring has been replaced.

On further inspection I found my machine actually has an EFP5 pump in it. as well.


And to add some visual context about that o-ring on the side of my steam boiler that has build-up here's a picture.


Thanks for helping me understand what's going on with that sticky tube as well, appreciate it!

-Cris

Juanpablo wrote:Just updating on what I've done today to potentially remedy the dud preinfusion issue.

...

After all that preinfusion still did not seem to be operating normally when preinfusion power set to PP55, however after reading some older post with some folks having the same issue I found that by increasing preinfusion power slightly to something like PP70 I could get the pump to behave normally.
(this is tested by seeing if preinfusion will kick in without the pump being "primed" with a shot prior or water run)

this makes me think that other folks might be able to narrow down their specific preinfusion power to kick in their pump during preinfusion such that it accounts for their dying pump. I'm thinking mine may be around 65-70.

With the other potential problems out of the way it makes me think this is just a result of a dying pump and well I'll probably have to replace it eventually but I feel somewhat glad to know I narrowed down the issue to that. Hope this helps some people out.

-Jp

Hi Cris,

Yes, you've nicely explained a dying/lazy pump on our machines. About a year ago, mine started to not perform preinfusion at 55% power. It would happened occasionally, but started to happen more often. As you found "priming" the pump, or just running the pump at full power, for say 5 seconds, took care of the problem...just a flush before attaching the portafilter and starting the shot. But after a while that was sort of hit or miss. Then I discovered that slightly more power...say 60% would turn the pump over. The o-ring leak at the OPV certainly didn't help matters, but the problem has returned, and now again I'm at 60%...indeed a dying pump. There comes a point when preinflusion flow rate is no longer preinfusion! Oh sure, I could modulate the flow with the water valve, but I'd rather set it and forget it. I have a new pump waiting and ready to go in, just don't want to go in there and loose one of those four screws holding the pump...but if it starts to fail to turn over at 60% power, I will.

Cheers,
Bob

Hello again people,

Last week I swapped out my stock (coffee/main) pump and OPV with another new stock pump and OPV. The preinfusion is now working as it did back when new which is great, but unfortunately, my suboptimal tasting coffee persists.

In recent days I've tried to play around with the OPV to try and reduce the brewing pressure without success. My old pump and OPV (last week) was extracting at 10 bar. My new pump and OPV is extracting at 10.5. Is this far too high, especially for medium roast beans?

Another question, do the silicone boots used on the steam boiler (yes I have the older design boiler) serve any functional value other than protecting the relevant pipes from bending too severely at the base? My boots have disintegrated.

Cheers,

Ash

pcrussell50 wrote:Good morning, Cris...
Ironically, some bloke here did. Fairly recently, too. I think he peeled back the tabs holding on the "skin", so he could paint the whole skin while it hung from a coat hanger without worrying about anything else. IIRC, it was that matte black or dark gray that is popular with special interest cars. It looked pretty good.

-Peter

That bloke is me. It's pretty easy removing the panels from the machine. First, removing the front panel by removing the top two screws securing the front panel in place, pulling it up will detach it from the body and straighten out the tabs of the side panels. Secondly, removing the plastic base by removing all the screws. The base securely keeps the panels attached to the body. Thirdly, straighten all the top tabs and the tabs on the back of the machine. Lastly, gently push the sides panels outward and forward to remove the panels from the body.

As far as painting goes, I first use 100grit sand paper to remove the chrome coating and spray a layer of primer before spraying the final coat using the high heat paint. See the result here: Breville Dual Boiler Mods and Maintenance

Here are the primer and spray paint that I use:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum- ... /202097276

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum- ... /202315061?

Ash_AU wrote:Hello again people,

Last week I swapped out my stock (coffee/main) pump and OPV with another new stock pump and OPV. The preinfusion is now working as it did back when new which is great, but unfortunately, my suboptimal tasting coffee persists.

In recent days I've tried to play around with the OPV to try and reduce the brewing pressure without success. My old pump and OPV (last week) was extracting at 10 bar. My new pump and OPV is extracting at 10.5. Is this far too high, especially for medium roast beans?

Another question, do the silicone boots used on the steam boiler (yes I have the older design boiler) serve any functional value other than protecting the relevant pipes from bending too severely at the base? My boots have disintegrated.

Cheers,

Ash

Just curious about the age of your beans. How old are they? Regarding the silicone boots, I personally prefer not having the boots there so that I can easily inspect leakage.

-Anthony

Thanks anthony,

Fresh beans.

I personally prefer not having the boots there so that I can easily inspect leakage.

Sounds wise actually!

-Ash

Hey Ash,

That's great to hear that swapping the OPV and pump worked to resolve your preinfusion issue! That's one person down out of BaristaBob you and I that had success with that move. I see a brass OPV and EX5 pump in my future now.

I believe the silicone boots according to some prior posts seem to be serving little to no function.