pape wrote:A quick introduction, I am a 7-year dual boiler user. I started with a refurbished 900A, replaced under warranty with a 900B sent in after warranty for a repair and ended up with a 920XL. Anyway I have done many seal replacements over the years, did the steam valve and the brass pump/OPV mod.
How do you like the brass mod? The original Ulka pump in the BDB is 51W or so. The common bras pump is 41W. BUT you can also get the 51W brass pump. Do you know which one you have?
pape wrote:A few weeks ago the steam valve started to get hard to open, turns out steam was leaking from where the handle attaches. I went to repair that and the screw that holds the handle on was completely corroded. I drilled the screw out and was able to repair the steam valve.
It's an o-ring a -008 (the only -008 in the machine) that seals the steam valve's knob. Is that what you used? If not, go back and put a fresh -008 in there.
pape wrote:I noticed a few of the steam boiler rings were leaking went to replace them, both with hoses were corroded in place, soaked them in vinegar, one came out the next day, the other I broke off the hose and the fitting fell in the boiler. I was able to get the brass ring out that was stuck in the boiler, but I damaged it in the process. I then got the boiler out of the machine and was able to use some shaking to get the piece that had fallen in out.
I looked through all the threads and I didn't see if it was possible to buy the brass retaining? ring (see picture) separately, is there a source for these?
Anyone know if it would be possible to get a replacement hose from Breville or possibly the new boiler (since I have it out) with the threaded fittings and the hoses?
All my sensors are leaking at the top too and I saw it is possible to get replacements, which is a good sign.
Nah. You don't need a new machine. Although I am a little bothered by the fact you've been using water that has corrosives in it. I'm talking about chlorides (note, NOT chlorine). La Marzocco says no more than 30ppm of chlorides. Synesso says no more than 0 (that's ZERO) ppm of chlorides. There may be (likely) some other corrosion hidden in the group complex or solenoid. But as with living with heart disease, if it keeps working OK, just roll with it.
My you seem to be plenty skilled. Ideal for affordable long term ownership... of any espresso machine. Now, before we head down the path of your options, let me proselytize a bit... In the future you (all of us) would be better served if you use water that doesn't cause corrosion.
Now... your options as I see them...
1) you can buy replacement t-tubes from ereplacementparts
. If any one of them is not the exact length you need, you can cut in the middle, and splice in some of your own 4mm PTFE tubing
using butt connectors like these.
You can also buy higher quality splices from hose and fitting stores, but I've never had a problem with the cheapos.
2) If you rescued your brass end piece, you can wiggle and press it back on the end of your existing tube and re use it. It's best if you can find the ferrule that went in the tip, but other espresso machine makers that use this tube end format, don't use them. It's not super easy to rebuild the tips, but I've done it just for fun (I use corrosion-free water so I don't have problems with sticking). I have no doubt you could too.
3) Before you go down the path of new sensors... either put some silicone lube around the bottom where the metal meets the ceramic. Silicone lube doesn't melt out at these temps and reports are, it stops the migration of steam up the small gap between steel rod and ceramic shell.
Braze off the tab at the top shim the steel rod so that it's snug up against the bottom of the ceramic shell.
I say these things specifically to you, because you seem like the sort who can is up to this.
Report back, would you?