Breville Dual Boiler Mods and Maintenance - Page 35

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lancealot

#341: Post by lancealot »

Shyam,
I've have thought about moding my drip tray so that it drains. But I have never actually given it a go. I'll be paying attention to how you make out!

I also considered the float valve option in the water tank. I've decided not to do it because I am worried that if the float failed in the "on" position, I could have 5 gallons of water on my kitchen floor.

edited: Thanks Jev

pcrussell50 (original poster)

#342: Post by pcrussell50 (original poster) »

jevenator wrote:Thanks for your response Peter. Was wondering if you had any suggestions for this as well?

image

On your video you just pull on it and it pops off. I have tried tugging on it with pliers and everything without ripping or trying hard to not damage the tubing but it won't budge. All that splatter is from the previous owner not noticing the leak and they said they did a descale too so I'm guessing it's cause of that as well and it's like it's stuck on there
Nothing BDB-specific. You are down to a "mechanic'ing" problem. Like a when a mechanic has to free up a stuck or broken bolt, for example. In that vein, as an amateur mechanic, you might try rapid sharp impulse techniques to break whatever chemical grip is causing the brass knob not to come out. Maybe even (counterintuitively), tapping something hard and strong like a dull nail or brad around the circumference of the brass knob. I have a couple of other ideas if that doesn't work.

-Peter
LMWDP #553

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jevenator

#343: Post by jevenator »

lancealot wrote:Jev,
I've have thought about moding my drip tray so that it drains. But I have never actually given it a go. I'll be paying attention to how you make out!
You got me mixed up with the other guy. I have this BDB to tidy up and pass it along to a new loving home.
pcrussell50 wrote:Nothing BDB-specific. You are down to a "mechanic'ing" problem. Like a when a mechanic has to free up a stuck or broken bolt, for example. In that vein, as an amateur mechanic, you might try rapid sharp impulse techniques to break whatever chemical grip is causing the brass knob not to come out. Maybe even (counterintuitively), tapping something hard and strong like a dull nail or brad around the circumference of the brass knob. I have a couple of other ideas if that doesn't work.

-Peter
Is sourcing new tubing a reasonable option? I've tried those ideas already...I can just pull as hard as I can, ripping out the tubing and then try pulling by the little knob it attaches to to then clean and replace...

luvmy40

#344: Post by luvmy40 »

jevenator wrote:Thanks for your response Peter. Was wondering if you had any suggestions for this as well?

image

On your video you just pull on it and it pops off. I have tried tugging on it with pliers and everything without ripping or trying hard to not damage the tubing but it won't budge. All that splatter is from the previous owner not noticing the leak and they said they did a descale too so I'm guessing it's cause of that as well and it's like it's stuck on there
To expound upon Peter's response, Maybe drip a little white vinegar down the tube and let it soak a while. Add a few drops and wiggle the tube every little while to keep it wet and see if it softens the scale that may be the problem.

luvmy40

#345: Post by luvmy40 »

lancealot wrote:Shyam,
I've have thought about moding my drip tray so that it drains. But I have never actually given it a go. I'll be paying attention to how you make out!

I also considered the float valve option in the water tank. I've decided not to do it because I am worried that if the float failed in the "on" position, I could have 5 gallons of water on my kitchen floor.

edited: Thanks Jev
I've had a float valve in my BDB reservoir since I got it. Maybe 2 years. No problems at all. Obvously, you need to get a float valve small enough to fit the tank, but solid enaough to handle your line pressure. I did have to go with the old style tank filter and cut down the handle to clear the float, but that isn't really an issue.

This is the float I used: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01 ... UTF8&psc=1

jevenator

#346: Post by jevenator »

luvmy40 wrote:To expound upon Peter's response, Maybe drip a little white vinegar down the tube and let it soak a while. Add a few drops and wiggle the tube every little while to keep it wet and see if it softens the scale that may be the problem.
I've been doing that. The scale is pretty much gone from the top but it won't budge. I was thinking of turning it on and letting it heat up but pulling on something that's pressurized and hot doesn't seem like a safe idea. I'm totally down just pulling on it with channel locks and ripping it out but I'd need to source a replacement.

pcrussell50 (original poster)

#347: Post by pcrussell50 (original poster) »

jevenator wrote: Is sourcing new tubing a reasonable option? I've tried those ideas already...I can just pull as hard as I can, ripping out the tubing and then try pulling by the little knob it attaches to to then clean and replace...
You can get some new T-tubes from ereplacementparts, or you can get the part number from the ereplacementparts diagram, and call Breville. Apparently based on reports on here from others, you will need to provide a part number and they will sell them to you but you have to agree not to hold them liable if you hurt yourself or if it doesn't work. It will void any warranties you have as well. You have none, so that should not be a factor.

As long as you save the metal bits on the ends, you can buy 4mm OD PTFE tubing and make your own as well.

BUT... your larger problem is that you need to get the stuck brass bit out of the boiler bung. New tubes will not help you there.

-Peter
LMWDP #553

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pcrussell50 (original poster)

#348: Post by pcrussell50 (original poster) »

luvmy40 wrote:I've had a float valve in my BDB reservoir since I got it. Maybe 2 years. No problems at all. Obvously, you need to get a float valve small enough to fit the tank, but solid enaough to handle your line pressure. I did have to go with the old style tank filter and cut down the handle to clear the float, but that isn't really an issue.

This is the float I used: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01 ... UTF8&psc=1
Rich, I've been watching you over the years... you are a modding madman. And you are far too silent about it. Seriously, some of your ideas are really good and in my opinion you should be more assertive about sharing.

Anyway, as to your auto-tank filler and high line pressure, you can get a simple inline pressure reducer for not much money like one of these here. Don't know if it's too late but that might simplify your situation.

-Peter
LMWDP #553

scotthue

#349: Post by scotthue »

Hi all,

First of all, very excited to join this community of fixers and tinkerers. I certainly subscribe to those labels myself in many of my hobbies, this to be a new one to add to the list.

I just picked up a project ("as-is") BDB from ebay and feel rather encouraged by this thread re the fix-ablity of this machine. I do have 30 days to return the machine (minus shipping), in the case that it's a total lemon but the price was right, so I'm keen to try to get it up and running first. I just got the machine delivered and it is without a water tank, which I was aware of. I have a water tank on the way but has not yet arrived so I'm waiting to do much testing.

I've read this whole thread, and many other BDB posts here on HB, so I have a good sense of first steps once the water tank arrives.

My first question for the group: many have referred to the serial number to reference how old the machine is. The thing is, my serial number starts with letters, not numbers:


Does that mean is this a 2019, week 49 model? Or am I looking at entirely the wrong thing?

- Scott

pcrussell50 (original poster)

#350: Post by pcrussell50 (original poster) »

scotthue wrote:Does that mean is this a 2019, week 49 model? Or am I looking at entirely the wrong thing?

- Scott
There should be a serial number on the bottom and one inside the water tank cavern. The second one might be imprinted rather than a sticker. Or it may not. They should all match.

as a sanity check, look upwards at the bottom lip around the group, should be four Phillips screws. Also, take the top cover off and put the screws aside for safe keeping. The top cover is heavy and stays down on it's own. And that way you can remove it for service or inspection just by lifting it off. The steam boiler should have three tube nuts on top rather than being all hairpin clips. Those are the latest hardware updates I'm aware of.

You picked the right machine if you like to tinker and mod. Right now, the only thing stock on mine is the temperature stability control system and the chassis itself. With that, you can make this machine into anything you want it to be.

-Peter
LMWDP #553