Breville Dual Boiler Mods and Maintenance - Page 3

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mrjag
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#21: Post by mrjag »

I'd also add that if you want to undo the screen and plate mod, it should only cost $20-30 in OEM parts that should be readily available.

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lancealot
Posts: 1139
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#22: Post by lancealot »

IMAWriter wrote: I just wanted to make sure this IMS mod with brass plate looks as it should.
Robert,
Sorry it took me a while to reply to you on this. There are 2 different ways to add the IMS screen to this machine. #1 You can just add the IMS screen and use the plastic dispersion block OR #2 you can buy that kit that has the IMS screen and a brass dispersion block replacement.

I have case #1. From your photo, it looks like the machine you are considering has case #2.

Since I do not have case #2 take this with a grain of salt. From my experience with my machine. All looks well. I don't see anything to be concerned about. I hope you get the machine, I know you have been looking forward to trying one out for quite a while.

DaveB
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Joined: 6 years ago

#23: Post by DaveB »

mrjag wrote:I'd also add that if you want to undo the screen and plate mod, it should only cost $20-30 in OEM parts that should be readily available.
Robert wrote that the owner has 2 of the original plates as well as the original screen.

As has been mentioned on the forum previously, Breville likely chose plastic as it's much less of a heat-sink than metal, and would allow the group to warm up more quickly. I would think they tested both during development. The same being true for bottomless portafilters vs spouted - they're a lot lighter and there's a lot less material to heat up. I think the brass plate would also take longer for temp changes to take effect. The BDB was said to have temp stability on par with the highest-end machines, so I don't know if a brass plate would be a good thing or not so good in this regard.
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pcrussell50 (original poster)
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#24: Post by pcrussell50 (original poster) »

I think Breville chose the phenolic (heat stable plastic) disc because it does not react electrochemically with the aluminum group and the stainless steel screw. The brass disc will. So if you use it, you need to know that, and clean, inspect, use a mild steel screw, maybe some PTFE thread tape, etc...

-Peter
LMWDP #553

IMAWriter
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#25: Post by IMAWriter »

All good, thanks.

DaveB
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#26: Post by DaveB »

pcrussell50 wrote:From post #1

Brass OPV and BrassNecked Pump

Here is a thread with pics, detailing a guy's conversion to brass pump and OPV. Breville Dual Boiler BES900XL brass OPV and pump mod.

Some things to add:
1) I decided not to use the compression fitting he used, and used a QC or PTC (quick connect or push to connect), because since the tubing is PTFE, in a compression fitting it may eventually cold flow and fail. My fitting is the black elbow with the blue lip, 1/8 BSP brass threaded into the OPV

So I've been contemplating doing this mod for a while, and this excellent video was seriously tempting me to go for it:


In the video description there are links sourcing the OPV (from Stefano's), the brass-necked pump from Amazon, and the compression-fit elbow from eBay. The pump has always been $28, but when I happened to click on the link the other day I was surprised to see it listed for $20.00! I quickly ordered it, as well as the OPV $39.95+$8 shipping (got a couple silicon Cafelat gaskets for my La Pavoni while I was at it). FWIW, the pump is now priced at $24.90.

Having been spoiled by the total pug 'n play nature of the Slayer Mod, I'd prefer not to cut anything more than absolutely necessary. If Peter's elbow above make it more easily reversible, that would be preferable. The other question is whether it's really necessary to cut one of the pump wires. Is it not possible to simply unscrew the wire nut joining the wires? Or is the wire nut crimped?
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lancealot
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#27: Post by lancealot »

I have preformed this mod. I don't know why he cut the pump wire in the video. I didn't watch it all though, I just kinda scrubbed through it. Nice video.

You can simply pull the 2 spade connectors off the pump and then pull the white thermal overload fuse and glue off. The spade connectors are hard to get off. I think there is a way to press them and then pull them and they come off easily but I am not knowledgeable enough for that. Perhaps someone else knows the trick. I simply grab them with a small pair of needle nose pliers, and squeeze and twist them till they come loose (without damaging the pump). there's gotta be a trick to it though. And by trick, I mean a proper way to separate a notched spade connector :oops:

pcrussell50 (original poster)
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#28: Post by pcrussell50 (original poster) »

DaveB wrote: The other question is whether it's really necessary to cut one of the pump wires. Is it not possible to simply unscrew the wire nut joining the wires? Or is the wire nut crimped?
It is absolutely positively not in any way necessary to cut a pump or any other wire.

EDIT: I see that Chris already discusses this:
The temperature sensor with the yellow wire is "glued" in with a white sealer that breaks off fairly easily. Then you slide that sensor out of its slot, and slip it back int the same slot on the new pump.

As for pulling off the spade connectors, there is a little hole in the blades on the pump, and little tiny male nub that clips down into that hole. There is a place on the connector where if you press on it, it rocks the nub out of the hole and makes it easier to remove the connector. Doing what Chris does also works and I have resorted to it myself.

Also, I didn't use that compression fitting either. Since the tubing is PTFE, and PTFE cold flows, I went with a push to connect fitting. You can go with anything that makes you comfortable. I cut the tube that runs from the OPV to the boiler in a way that leaves enough tubing left that I could put the cut ends back together with a 4mm butt splice.
-Peter
LMWDP #553

DaveB
Posts: 955
Joined: 6 years ago

#29: Post by DaveB »

pcrussell50 wrote:It is absolutely positively not in any way necessary to cut a pump or any other wire.
Good to know; I thought that was odd.
Also, I didn't use that compression fitting either. Since the tubing is PTFE, and PTFE cold flows, I went with a push to connect fitting.
This has me 2nd-guessing using the compression fitting - it's something I'd rather not worry about (I'm still waiting for it to arrive). If you happen to have an extra push-to-connect fitting laying around I would buy you a pint for your trouble. 8) Is one connector type easier than the other when reverting to stock? In any event it's most likely a moot point for me because I have only 3 months left on the warranty and plan to fix any issues myself unless something is unfixable..
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pcrussell50 (original poster)
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#30: Post by pcrussell50 (original poster) »

DaveB wrote: This has me 2nd-guessing using the compression fitting - it's something I'd rather not worry about (I'm still waiting for it to arrive). If you happen to have an extra push-to-connect fitting laying around I would buy you a pint for your trouble. 8) Is one connector type easier than the other when reverting to stock? In any event it's most likely a moot point for me because I have only 3 months left on the warranty and plan to fix any issues myself unless something is unfixable..
You can go ahead and use the compression fitting in the mean time. There's no pressing reason to do without. What I used when I had that rig, was an elbow with male G1/8 thread to screw into the OPV, and a black plastic elbow with a 4mm PTC/QC (push to connect/quick connect), it can be called by either moniker. They're not quite as common as you would think, I gone mine for about $8 delivered from a fittings place in Reno via eBay.

As for reversibility, either method requires cutting the tube. As long as you cut it in the right place, you can put the two ends back together again with a 4mm push to connect splice.

-Peter
LMWDP #553

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