Breville Dual Boiler Mods and Maintenance - Page 127

Need help with equipment usage or want to share your latest discovery?
AlanLikesCoffee
Posts: 4
Joined: 3 months ago

#1261: Post by AlanLikesCoffee »

pcrussell50 wrote:Typically overheating comes from steam leaking from a failed o-ring associated with the steam boiler, and wetting down the high current board underneath the top cover, causing a thermal runaway. Sometimes it also trips your ground fault protection as well.

The fix in this case (if it is your case), is to replace the worn o-ring with a fresh one.
Still didn't find any leaking O-rings, but possibly the ones in the OPV could use replacing as I ended up tightening the OPV valve on the steam boiler, this seemed to stabilize the behavior of the machine, but it was still heating to a higher temperature (seemed to be around 160C).

Based on other references I replaced the 3 x OPTOISOLATOR 5KV TRIAC 6DIP on the PCB board.

I think I probably only needed to replace one of them.

Given I couldn't find reference to which one I did all three. First try it seems my soldering was job was not so great and the steam boiler issue was fixed but then the coffee boiler would not reach temperature. As such I think ISO6 is linked to the steam boiler. I had adjusted the soldering on the other two and now am back to a normally functioning machine.

Frambled
Posts: 10
Joined: 3 months ago

#1262: Post by Frambled »

I'm replacing my entire grouphead assembly BES 900xl

I removed what I believe to be a temperature sensor for the group head screwed right below main boiler on top of the group. It had what I believe to be some sort of white thermal paste or maybe glue.

I was hoping to just use some pc thermal paste unless this is a terrible idea. The listed temp range 40c - 200c just seems like it is in the right range. Anyone know what exactly this paste is, and if I need to get some?



just4kickz
Posts: 19
Joined: 2 years ago

#1263: Post by just4kickz »

Im in the process of replacing the triac board and wanted to know how to remove the wire connectors? Also, do I have to buy new wire connectors when connecting the new board? Thanks.

raylo32
Posts: 34
Joined: 5 years ago

#1264: Post by raylo32 »

I just replaced all that stuff on my BDB and, yes, that is a thermistor. Be VERY careful with it, it is super delicate. I broke mine when I disassembled it and had to source another one, which isn't easy here in the US. I did not use thermal paste when I installed the new one. It has a metal tab and makes direct contact with the heated brew collar so IMO you don't need anything on it. I don't think putting thermal paste on it would hurt, but I don't see it helping, either. My BDB is back in service and working fine now for a week. Note: if you get an "ERR3" on the screen when you start the machine that means you broke this sensor and it will not function. Ask me how I know... :-(
Frambled wrote:I'm replacing my entire grouphead assembly BES 900xl

I removed what I believe to be a temperature sensor for the group head screwed right below main boiler on top of the group. It had what I believe to be some sort of white thermal paste or maybe glue.

I was hoping to just use some pc thermal paste unless this is a terrible idea. The listed temp range 40c - 200c just seems like it is in the right range. Anyone know what exactly this paste is, and if I need to get some?

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Steffche
Posts: 18
Joined: 2 months ago

#1265: Post by Steffche »

Hi guys. New to the forum. I've had my bes920 for over 10 years. I have just recently replaced all the O-rings and temp probes as I've been having the dreaded gurgling sound issues, and eventually the pump fails to push water through the system.

I thought this would've solved the problem however after only 2 days I've started getting the same issue all over again.

Any suggestions?

luvmy40
Posts: 1150
Joined: 4 years ago

#1266: Post by luvmy40 replying to Steffche »

Look for cracked fittings, loose tube connections, etc. Don't ignore the reservoir connection either. I'd pull the tube from the OPV at the steam boiler HX inlet and see if you get good water flow from the pump/OPV. Could be a bad pump or clogged/bad OPV. Are you getting water in the drip tray when pulling a shot? 10 years is a good long run for the ULKA vibe pumps. That would be my first/best guess.

Steffche
Posts: 18
Joined: 2 months ago

#1267: Post by Steffche »

No there's no water under the machine. I did find that I had damaged the oring on the side of the steam boiler as I hadn't been using grease and had forced it in too hard which caused the oring to split. I went out and bought some grease and was absolutely confident that this was the cause of the gurgling sound. After testing it a few times I thought that I had finally fixed it, however the more I used it, the more I noticed the gurgling sound getting louder with each press of the 2-cup button. It seems to do it as soon as I press the button to start extraction. I kept the lid off so I could jiggle all the connections to see if there was another leaking oring seal, but none of them so much as make a hissing noise.

The pressure is still good. Gets up to just under 10bar with the cleaning disc inserted into the portafilter.

What else should I be looking at?

AP2000S
Posts: 5
Joined: 7 months ago

#1268: Post by AP2000S »

Just did the repairs today, changed the red orings from the hoses that had a metal clamp and left the ones with the hex nut.

I changed the inner probe oring on one and the uxcell ones are just a tad bigger, nothing some grease cant sort though. Thought I'd leave the other two without changing the inner orings as they weren't faulty, and naturally they started hissing after reassembly!

Few hours later to cool down and small oring changes... And its running ok. Touch wood.

wLow
Posts: 1
Joined: 2 months ago

#1269: Post by wLow »

I had an overheating problem with my Dual Boiler. The steam boiler was overheating even when the machine was off but plugged in. When I replaced the Triac board I found a dead ant in the old board. I believe it caused a short and was the reason for the overheating. Be careful where you store your sugar bowl!

cmin
Posts: 1384
Joined: 12 years ago

#1270: Post by cmin »

Does anyone know where to get a stock outer shower screen? Breville doesn't carry/sell in US which makes no sense, it show in other locations from Aussieland/New Zealand/Canada but wont let you ship to US anyway. Bought a new plastic inner screen/diffuser from Breville but no screen, this would be like ordering a trans from Porsche missing clutch packs and Porsche going here's your trans but we don't make parts for it.

Can't find it anywhere, ereplacement even said they haven't had in a year and still on back order with no eta, said it could be next month or next year if at all. Found one place in Canada and shipping was asinine, like $60 for a $10 part which makes 0 sense as I've ordered various things whether business or even coffee and never had issues with shipping hell usually cheaper than US so thats nonsense how their charging that which I wouldn't pay out of being annoyed lol.

Still have Brass diffuser and IMS from prior owner and tired of dealing with rust and I have a screw that original owner must of had custom made if you look at my prior post as it fits perfectly and flush and it's an awkward size when I checked with calipers, not one single company on the planet even metric overseas has screws with that perfectly angled top to fit flush. Every other screw I've tried that others mentioned sticks out and indents pucks. But that brass and screw the rust is getting bad constantly having to strip and clean it.

The IMS and plastic diffuser won't work with my screw, it's too short at 13mm so it doesn't have enough bite to lock in with thickness of plastic diffuser. But I wanted to play around with plastic diffuser and a stock screen as it is thicker so headspace is tighter.

Edit - managed to find an appliance company in CA and normal shipping cost, not the wack price of other place.

https://forumappliances.com/products/sp ... esso-maker