Breville Dual Boiler Mods and Maintenance - Page 126

Need help with equipment usage or want to share your latest discovery?
Kilgoretrout
Posts: 15
Joined: 3 months ago

#1251: Post by Kilgoretrout »

marchq692 wrote:Thanks - I'm a first timer, so apologies if this is already answered (I've googled for an hour...), but does this mean I have to fool around with a screw driver in the green circled area or purple circled area in this photo: (Or neither!)

'image


thank you!!
The area in the green circle is what you need to disconnect. The female part of the connector that is crimped to the wires slides on to the male part of the spade connector that is soldered to the probe. I used a screw driver to pry it a little to get it moving, but you may not need that or might find something else better. It feels solid as the female part of the connector (with the wire attached) is pretty tight on its male counterpart. You may find just wiggling and pulling will do the trick, just be careful as when the connector finally does come off, you can jerk the wire and breaking it would mean having to replace the female part of the connector with a new connector and a crimp tool to crimp the new one to the wire.

cmin
Posts: 1392
Joined: 12 years ago

#1252: Post by cmin »

Has anyone ever figured our what screw fits the shower screen, mines had that brass diffuser since I bought it used way back and then modded it further. It's not the stock screw I don't believe b/c it's a Phillips and on Breville site it shows it as Hex. And I saw others mention 10/32 - 1/2 and M5 x 16 yet both of those are too thick and stick out from my IMS screen. The Breville parts list shows it as M5 x 17 which can't find anywhere not even hardware stores here.

Getting sick of constantly having to take the screw out and try to clean with rust and it's so old now that screw seems to lose a bit of threads. But if you look at the other screws, the countersunk head is slightly too thick.

Like here's the screws, have no idea what size it is but it fits perfectly flush, can see the difference in size. I have 0 idea what screw previous owner used

Kilgoretrout
Posts: 15
Joined: 3 months ago

#1253: Post by Kilgoretrout replying to cmin »

M5 x 17mm w/4mm hex drive is it. Not surprised you can't find the 17mm length, all my favorite supply options list 16mm and 18mm length in stainless. I am puzzled why M5 x 16mm won't work. My shower screen screw threads in way more than 1mm before it starts to tighten.

I may have an M5 x 16mm in one of my bins, if I do, I will try it and see if it works.

PS - If you are saying an M5 x 16mm pan head (like pictured in your photo) bottoms before being flush, that might make sense as they are measured length wise from under the head, while flat head screws (like in the OEM configuration) are measured for length from the top of the head. My OEM screw is only 13mm long from where the head ends and the end of the screw. The OEM screw is a stainless flathead 4mm hex drive drive, M5 x 17mm (the thread length is only 13mm).

cmin
Posts: 1392
Joined: 12 years ago

#1254: Post by cmin »

Kilgoretrout wrote:

PS - If you are saying an M5 x 16mm pan head (like pictured in your photo) bottoms before being flush, that might make sense as they are measured length wise from under the head, while flat head screws (like in the OEM configuration) are measured for length from the top of the head. My OEM screw is only 13mm long from where the head ends and the end of the screw. The OEM screw is a stainless flathead 4mm hex drive drive, M5 x 17mm (the thread length is only 13mm).
Yeah the heads won't even fit in the slot not screwed in their too thick so if you go to screw in all that happens is turns the screen concave as it presses it in.

The screw I've had (the rusty looking one) drops right into the hole flush of the screen flush, so when you do install it's perfect and flush without the screen inverting, it's a Phillips also not hex. Problem is I have 0 idea what size that screw is nor does any even speciality shop going metric where I've brought it with me. It's whatever the prior owner installed and I actually just tried to message him and that email doesn't work anymore.

I noticed today shots were channeling when I tried other screws as it sticks out enough to indent the puck. I use a filter paper on top also that I cut in bulk from chemex filters with a circular cutter and left a clear perfect dent of the screw in the paper.

Yeah like you said I just had another store and even Ace (and Ace has pry the best overall screw assortment, far better than Lowes/HD combined) and guy on the phone said same thing, every size but 17, totally just skips the 17 rating... WTF lol. Apparently Breville is the only one in the world that has/makes these screws? And can't get through to anyone calling to even ask.

Kilgoretrout
Posts: 15
Joined: 3 months ago

#1255: Post by Kilgoretrout replying to cmin »

Even a place like McMaster-Carr (which I think has just about everything) only lists 16mm and 18mm in the stainless M5 flathead screw.

Is the stainless flathead in your picture is an M5 x 16mm?

Also, under your IMS screen, are you using the stock plastic inner screen (the black one)?

cmin
Posts: 1392
Joined: 12 years ago

#1256: Post by cmin replying to Kilgoretrout »

The stainless screws were 10-32 x 1/2 and M5 x 16, left and right side in that pic.

Has the brass diffuser as prior owner put that in years ago with slayer mod. I added Brass Ulka and Vibiemme OPV. I was thinking of buying a stock diffuser to try which would stop rust forming with the screw reacting with the brass and I'm just curious what would change with headspace. Just have no clue what size that screw is that I have in the middle, nobody does even at stores.

If you look at screw in the middle can clearly see how the head and angle are smaller (why it fits flush) then other two.

Kilgoretrout
Posts: 15
Joined: 3 months ago

#1257: Post by Kilgoretrout replying to cmin »

I am not sure if your IMS screen is compatible with the stock plastic inner screen, but that inner screen acts as a spacer for the outer screen, such that when you screw the outer and inner screen down, you don't deform the outer screen.

Your IMS screen might be compatible with both the stock inner screen and stock (or stockish at 16mm instead of 17mm) screw. I think a screw like this will work with a stock inner and outer screen (and maybe also a stock inner screen and IMS outer screen).

https://www.amazon.com/SUNXULIMI-Socket ... 9hdGY&th=1

Here is the stock inner screen. I bet it would work with your IMS screen as well.

https://www.breville.com/us/en/parts-ac ... 23671.html

PS - looking at the amazon description, it says thread length = 16mm, which would be too long if accurate. Flat head screws length normally includes the head, so a 16mm screw would have about 4mm of head and 12mm of thread length. The stock 17mm screw has a 4mm head length and 13mm thread length. If the amazon description is accurate and the threads actually are 16mm long, then you would need to order the 12mm version. Either way, if the advert is right and the threads are 16mm long and you need the 12mm long ones, you can return them and get the correct ones (or vice versa).

cmin
Posts: 1392
Joined: 12 years ago

#1258: Post by cmin »

Kilgoretrout wrote: PS - looking at the amazon description, it says thread length = 16mm, which would be too long if accurate. Flat head screws length normally includes the head, so a 16mm screw would have about 4mm of head and 12mm of thread length. The stock 17mm screw has a 4mm head length and 13mm thread length. If the amazon description is accurate and the threads actually are 16mm long, then you would need to order the 12mm version. Either way, if the advert is right and the threads are 16mm long and you need the 12mm long ones, you can return them and get the correct ones (or vice versa).
Checked the screw I've been using with calipers and it looks like full length is 13mm, the head is 3mm, the thread from the head is 10mm.

Other screws I've tried and looking at Amazon listing's are all same exact size even at hardware stores, heads are 4.1mm and way the angles are, are slightly thicker.

Now I'm totally confused as too how so many are using IMS screens, nobody mentions what screw except the ones I've tried which are too big. Whomever owned the machine before me apparently found the only screw in the world that fits.

Kilgoretrout
Posts: 15
Joined: 3 months ago

#1259: Post by Kilgoretrout replying to cmin »


Looking at the offering linked below on Amazon, it appears the screen (at least from this vendor) comes with a flat head screw and looks stainless. Interestingly, one of the complains in the review section of the ad below says the IMS screen isn't right where it is countersunk for the screw (causing the screw to sit too high out of the countersunk portion). He has pictures of the problem as he sees it.

Sounds like a run of the mill M5 flathead screw with enough thread length to work won't fit in the countersunk relief of the IMS screen.

https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Precis ... hdGY&psc=1

cmin
Posts: 1392
Joined: 12 years ago

#1260: Post by cmin »

Kilgoretrout wrote: Looking at the offering linked below on Amazon, it appears the screen (at least from this vendor) comes with a flat head screw and looks stainless. Interestingly, one of the complains in the review section of the ad below says the IMS screen isn't right where it is countersunk for the screw (causing the screw to sit too high out of the countersunk portion). He has pictures of the problem as he sees it.

Sounds like a run of the mill M5 flathead screw with enough thread length to work won't fit in the countersunk relief of the IMS screen.

https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Precis ... hdGY&psc=1
Yeah I'm just going to keep using the current screw (wtf size it is lol), just keep cleaning it. Soak in vinegar periodically and light wrap of plumbers tape. Seems to keep rust at bay/forming very little. And I drop screen and diffuser anyway once a month to soak and clean but usually still fairly clean between backflushes and I use cut chemex filters on top of pucks.

Did order the factory Inner screen/diffuser as I'm curious to see if any difference, from what I can tell from others the brass leaves more headspace which adds to PI etc timing. So curious to see what change may be there if using PI or Slayer mode drops timing. Sometimes on certain doses and baskets even HQ line I feel like bit too much headspace.