Breville Dual Boiler Mods and Maintenance - Page 117

Need help with equipment usage or want to share your latest discovery?

#1161: Post by GymbroJones »

So, I emptied my water tank after three weeks today and noticed what could be cockroach, or some other similar insect, droppings in the water.

First of all, foul.

Second of all, where would they be entering? I imagine through the drip tray? Apart from obviously trying to get rid of them, would putting a tea towel over the tray prevent entry like this, or is there another possible entry point?


#1162: Post by Linthorn »

Been reading up on this thread and thought I'd ask for some advice. I'm having several issues with my BDB and I was wondering if I should try to tackle it on my own or if I should bite the bullet and send it in. I bought it in 2017 and I clean and descale it. Here's what I'm seeing:
1. Leaking when it is heating up. This sounds like the ever-popular o-ring issue, since I have never replaced them. I am probably leaking from multiple sites; I've never opened it up
2. Leaking from the steam wand. It's like it doesn't close all the way.
3. Running out of steam. I noticed recently that the steam seems to peter out before heating up the pitcher. Temp seems fine, but it seems like there isn't enough water getting in the boiler. The last time I descaled it, there was very little water draining when I opened up the screw to that boiler.
4. Slow priming. When I first start the machine, or if I let it sit for a while, it seems like the pump has to reprime itself. It takes about 10 seconds after pressing the 1-cup (no delay) button for water to come out of the grouphead. If I wait a couple minutes and do it again, it comes out right away.

So, I've seen posts on the o-rings and the steam wand, but I'm concerned about the boilers filling and staying filled. No problem coming up to temp, although when it first heats up it seems like it runs the pump a lot more than it used to. As I said, I do descale it, but my descale message has been on since 2020. Can't seem to get it to go away. The cleaning message clears after a clean cycle.

I'd really like to get it back to operating because I truly love the machine. Hate to buy a new one, partly because I prefer my own grinder. Guidance is quite welcome.
Dave Lynch

LMWDP #218

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#1163: Post by lancealot »

Hey Dave,
I'd bet the cause of the problems (except the drippy steam wand) is leaky o-rings. Your boilers won't stay filled if you have leaky o-rings. I'd bet that is why your pump runs but nothing comes out. Next you will have run-away heating as the humidity from the leaks in the machine destroys the triac.

Go to the first page of this thread. Read it well. Then have a think. Are you the kind of person who buys a few tools and supplies, unplugs their machine and tries to fix it? Or are you the kind of person who sends it in? Are you handy, inquisitive? Do you have spare time? No value judgement from me about this, just do what you think is best. Good luck.


#1164: Post by Linthorn »

So, I'm the kind of person with lots of tools that doesn't mind rolling up my sleeves, but I can't solder to save my life. As long as I'm not doing major surgery, I can pull and replace parts with the best of them. I had thought I'd be fine with doing o-rings, but the boiler issues were making me rethink it. Didn't know if this spoke to several problems or just one (one set). Your comments have given me encouragement.

I seem to recall seeing a video or something on the steam wand drip, I'll re-look for it.

I guess I should stop using it, the heating is fine, so I don't want to kill it further.

From your suggestion that the same problem can be causing both issues, it sounds like the fix is not too hard. I've seen a lot of discussion on o-rings, but it isn't clear what the right ones to buy are. Do you happen to have a recommendation on which one to buy? Sounds like I should replace all of them.
Dave Lynch

LMWDP #218


#1165: Post by luvmy40 » ... 2FFC&psc=1 ... =UTF8&th=1 ... =UTF8&th=1

The links above are the correct sizes of O-Rings needed. You may find better prices elsewhere. The only debate about the O-Rings is concerning the material. There is a growing view that the AFLAS material is superior, though a bit harder to install. Personally, I stick with silicone and just replace all of the O-Rings every 2 year regardless of whether any are leaking or not.


#1166: Post by Jonas27de »

Hey there Guys, Just in case anyone wants to know this: The Breville 58mm Portafilter Spouts generally suck. They are removable tho and have a M16 thread. This spout is the one I mounted, looks pretty clean and just makes the Machine work better: ... -5911.aspx
It is kinda different than the picture, pretty much the standard spout you know from most machines (nuova simonelli eg.) The M16 thread is just the important part.

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#1167: Post by lancealot »

I'll bite. Why, oh why do they suck?
(I have a spouted but ever since I got a bottomless, years ago, I never use the spouted.)


#1168: Post by nisb »

Trying to repair a misused BDB, and the screw that holds the steam actuator to the ball valve is stuck - ended up breaking the steam valve getting it out.

I've ordered a new ball valve for the steam and a new actuator. Anyone know what screw I need to assemble? From picture it looks like maybe 10mm M3 but hard to judge

Edit: it's the screw that holds this part on: ... -actuator/


#1169: Post by BaristaBob replying to nisb »

I'm not sure, but if you email the Out West Coffee folks I'm sure they can tell you...they know Breville stuff well. I did order this actuator from them recently. After seven years mine was looking pretty "bakey" so it was an easy R&R. Long ago I slipped a lock washer on that tiny screw, comes off easily the few times I've had to replace the steam valve.
Bob "hello darkness my old friend..I've come to drink you once again"


#1170: Post by Jonas27de »

yeah i will get a bottomless one soon, but the spouts just dont let the coffee flow down, but make them go together, so it often is difficult and annoying to put two cups under there haha