Sorry; removing steam wand at the end of my question was a mistake; I meant the steam valve.

So; I have to remove the steam handle, the the bottom tube connected to the valve and then easiest to loosen the steam valve holder to get final good access to the valve to get to the o-ring.

I had hoped there was a solution without removing the steam handle as that looks complicated.

I will give it a try.

Ahhh the love/hate with this machine. Started leaking again from this point so put new oring in, and I just spent the last f'n almost 3 hours trying to fig out getting clip back in. I'm even using a plier to press down the tube a bit more and I cannot get the clip back in even with Hemostat. Just gets completely jammed being blocked.

I remember the last time I did this like a year and half ago on this circled one, I have no idea how I finally got it on but same issue.

Edit - go fig, right after posting this managed to get clip on. By this point I'm now just bleeding since I've stabbed and sliced myself multiple times trying to get it in the slot. And busted a nail ripping it partway ughh.

Good job in the end. But before you develop another o-ring failure, buy a small tube of food grade lubricant. Dab a small amount on the new o-ring and just like that it slides all the way down which in turn makes getting that clip back on easy.

Did that last time and this time again, still wouldn't help. I always put a tiny bit of nsf lube on all rings
I don't know what it is but that and the other one with the sleeve fitting are nightmares on my machine but the one on the right is maybe half as bad. I don't know wtf is up with the one like today. Wish I had the new setup like new BDBs use for fittings.

Even the doing the full probe probe disassemble and the other extra tiny ring for those is a piece of cake vs this ughhh. Even the brass mods and other work is easy and simple, but every time I have to replace the orings for the ones with sleeve fitting I want to punt the machine into the the water.

I hear you! That is why I became a big fan of AFLAS o-rings. I have converted every silicone o-ring over to AFLAS and not one has failed. Warning though, they don't compress as much as silicone so the install is more difficult but never changing them again is enough incentive for me.

Hi All,

Bloody good info here! Just got my BES920 over the weekend (MF 05/21) as an upgrade from my Barista Pro. Looking forward to getting some accessories (had to basically sell all the 54mm setup sadly!)

The machine has only done 560 shots and upon bringing it home I gave the machine a clean cycle, and it's working like a champ.
Is there any guidance as to how often the boilers should be emptied? I am going away for a few weeks soon and was wondering if it is ok to leave it as is.

Any tips and tricks would be greatly appreciated.

https://imgur.com/1T6VAxh

I am also AKL, NZ based, wonder if there are fellow enthusiasts that are able to point where to get mainteannce parts for these machines?

BaristaBob wrote:I hear you! That is why I became a big fan of AFLAS o-rings. I have converted every silicone o-ring over to AFLAS and not one has failed. Warning though, they don't compress as much as silicone so the install is more difficult but never changing them again is enough incentive for me.

And right after, started hearing kinda hissing but I couldn't see any leaks, kept checking for few days on startup but couldn't see any water bubbling or anything. Even kept checking that steam fill location, and finally pinpointed to the steam fill oring today. Ughh, what a little beotch. Removed solenoid to make a bit more room but no way in hell was I removing all the other stuff, the wires on mine are tight stretched from that area and whatever that sensor is that's right under the solenoid that some people crack.

Was super careful and got it done, clip was hard to get out as overtime musta had some scale build up jamming it.

That's the hard one. Nice work. If you put an AFLAS o-ring there, you won't have to do it again

BTW and seriously. I think you were writing about having a hard time getting your brass ferrule to seat so you could get your clip in. The AFLAS makes this even harder. I ended up making a tool that I could use to push down on the brass ferrule. I took a few bicycle spokes, ground the end down so the end looked like a flat head screw driver with a bench grinder. Then I bent them into the shape I needed. Using 2 of these, I fit the flat head end of then between the teflon tube and the stainless collar, pressing down directly on the brass ferrule, one at 12 o'clock and the other a 6 o'clock on the brass ferule. This allowed me to apply direct downward force, distributed across the ferule from different working positions. I also use some kinda lube. You need to research your lube choice though. Using the wrong lube for the o ring material will shorten the life of the o ring. The correct lubes per o ring material are back in these pages somewhere but it might be easier to do the research for yourself at this point. There are so many posts here!

Hi everyone, just sold my Lelit Elizabeth and bought the Sage Dual Boiler. I must admit, it is far more enjoyable to use. However, after a few days I am still worried about the water. I am now using Volvic. The general consensus is that the brand is considered safe to use on the SDB. But the Aquadur test strip which comes with the machine says that Volvic sits on 10dH (the strip has two red indicators - I can say one of them is 75% red). Should I keep using Volvic or did I do the test wrong? Also, if I use Volvic, do I need to use the water filter? Thanks in advance!

I have a leak where the water tank valves are on the left side in that cavity. I see water at the bottom of that cavity and all around that left side of the machine. Any ideas what could cause that?