Breville Dual Boiler Mods and Maintenance - Page 115

Need help with equipment usage or want to share your latest discovery?
PTcyap

#1141: Post by PTcyap »

lancealot wrote:Since the fitting has the o-ring, It won't hurt to use PTFE tape. You probably don't need it but why not.

You have to cut the tube because it wont fit into the compression fitting with that brass ferrule on there. You cut it, slide the cut end into the compression nut and then slide the new brass ferrule (comes with the elbow) onto the tube, then connect all this to the elbow. I think the video is pretty self explanatory. I'm sure you will understand it once you have the parts in hand.
Oh okay now I get it. I actually just got my BDB and have not powered it up yet. I opened it up once to do the slayer mod but haven't tested it just yet. I was under the assumption that I could just pry out that brass ferrule off and fit the tube right onto the new compression fitting. Thank you for the clarification.
lancealot wrote:If you buy the compression fitting I linked to, it swivels. You'll thread it into the OPV, tighten it up enough to compress the o-ring, when it is tight the elbow will swivel so that the output can go in a natural direction. Notice how his pointed to 7 o clock in the video and made the tube bend in an odd way, yours won't do that. I'm telling you this so you don't think that you have to keep tightening it to get it to stop swiveling. You can over tighten that part and strip the threads, they are brass. Tighten it till it compresses the o-ring and you can't tighten it anymore using moderate force.
Oh nice! Thank you for the heads up.
lancealot wrote:Second. The point he makes about not over tightening the compressing fitting is important. I don't know how to communicate how tight it should be. Just remember that as you are tightening it, you are compressing the brass ferrule onto the soft plastic tube. You want it tight enough so it presses into the tube a bit to prevent it from coming out, but not so tight that you cut or damage the tube.

Good luck. You've got this!
I think I'm familiar with how tight I should go. I think the fittings I have with my watercooled PC are made of brass (AFAIK). I can't wait to tackle this project.

PTcyap

#1142: Post by PTcyap »

BTW this is the pump that I got. Hopefully I got one that is compatible.

PTcyap

#1143: Post by PTcyap »

Hello again guys. I have another question. Is it okay to turn on the machine while these two things are detached from the top cover?
Since its really difficult to work inside the machine and check for leaks with these attached to the top cover.

luvmy40

#1144: Post by luvmy40 »

PTcyap wrote:Hello again guys. I have another question. Is it okay to turn on the machine while these two things are detached from the top cover?
Since its really difficult to work inside the machine and check for leaks with these attached to the top cover.
It MIGHT be OK to turn it on for a short time with the triac board removed from the top. The machine top is the heat sink for the triac assembly. I have no idea how fast the triac board would heat up enough to cause damage.

You can remove some more parts from the back of the machine and reroute the wires a bit to make it easier to work inside.

PTcyap

#1145: Post by PTcyap »

Hey Chris,
So I thought about what Peter wrote from his post about cold flow thinning and I am worried that it might happen to me eventually if I proceed with this mod. Now I saw this fitting and wondered if it could prevent that issue. Looking forward to your opinion man thanks again.

https://www.bluestarcoffee.eu/en/ULKA-P ... -3088.aspx

megamixman
Supporter

#1146: Post by megamixman »

Not sure what other's experience with Breville Service has been lately, but I just had a piss poor one after I paid $405 to have my BDB sent back and get a new steam valve. They did nothing and sent it back in airbags rather than sturdy foam. My poor BDB got destroyed in transit. Chat and Phone support has been super bad too. They kept me on hold while they "review my case" and then just tell me they have to deal with another customer and hangup/close chat. Going to try and file a UPS claim since I don't trust Breville anymore. Not sure what I'm going to replace this with, but buying another BDB is no longer in the cards.

AlexE19-NSCS

#1147: Post by AlexE19-NSCS »

Hey all, just wanted to share my experience with fixing an older 920XL that was not getting flow during preinfusion but the pump still provided 9 bars during full flow. As others had mentioned, some have been able to resolve this by changing the pump and others haven't, but for me this was resolved once I did the brass neck pump/brass OPV. Also, for anyone doing this mod, I would recommend using a small syringe to fill the brass neck/check valve with water to ensure it isn't air locked (mine would not release without disassembling the pump and doing so, which resulted in the characteristic loud dry pumping noise). I went even further by then assembling the pump again and pushing more water in through the inlet before putting it in the machine. Then just run water through the group once up to temp (machine can't draw water through group before getting up to temp), some air and hissing and boom all is well!! Pre-infusion is back and the pump is much quieter. Also, I tried both the EX5 and EF pump just out of curiosity and noticed the EX5 was much quieter out of the two, not sure if others have noticed but something to think about!

bazzz

#1148: Post by bazzz »

megamixman wrote:Not sure what other's experience with Breville Service has been lately, but I just had a piss poor one after I paid $405 to have my BDB sent back and get a new steam valve. They did nothing and sent it back in airbags rather than sturdy foam. My poor BDB got destroyed in transit. Chat and Phone support has been super bad too. They kept me on hold while they "review my case" and then just tell me they have to deal with another customer and hangup/close chat. Going to try and file a UPS claim since I don't trust Breville anymore. Not sure what I'm going to replace this with, but buying another BDB is no longer in the cards.
I'd try reaching out to them via email at askus@brevilleusa.com or via DM on Twitter. Actually, I think their Twitter account might have been the most responsive, @BrevilleUSA.

(I'm assuming you're in North America here).

walter-

#1149: Post by walter- »

I feel stupid to ask... I have the leaking steam wand problem; I want to flip the o-rings in steam valve.

And now the stupid question; someone has the explanation on how go remove the steam wand? Where do I start? It all looks tight and I am afraid to apply force and break something.

I found so much info on this device; but on removing the steam wand I cannot find the steps.

Thanks in advance,

Walter

fjen

#1150: Post by fjen replying to walter- »

There's no need to remove the actual wand itself when doing this service... You'll see the valve and it has 2 pieces of PTFE (thin white) tube connected to it. One of them is going in from the top. The other is going out towards the bottom of the machine. That bottom tube is what connects to the wand, and you should simply disconnect that tube (using the same process as all the other PTFE tubes).

The wand should stay on as it really does not need to be removed. As long as you take off the steam handle and get the valve off you're good. I found it easier to remove the valve by also taking off the retaining bracket on the side wall held in place by two Phillips heads.