OK. ^^^That ^^^ was three hours ago. Updates?

-Peter

As I may have posted, not working much on a pump machine, all the tubes and such have my head spinning. As much as I'd like to continue with the Slayer mod, my inability to process visually prolly makes this harder than it is for y'all. I like the Idea of the "1A" idea, as leverf profiling has been my world, but I know I'd screw up the tube insertions, and such.

As to the Slayer mod, I'd not know how to cap of a tube without cutting it. Peter mentioned a hairpin clip. Is there one there already, or would I need to purchase? I can prolly hire someone to do this for me.
I know coffee, I don't so much do well with mechanical stuff. Trust me, working with an Olympia Cremina os a LOT easier than what' y'all think of as child's play.I may reconnect the water sensor for now, as water exiting out would be distracting for me. Guys...at least I was able to crack the hood, and find the sensor!!

This upper tube goes to the hot water nozzle...would this one be re-routed? To the group or something? (From the OPV)

This should help you visualize the rerouting of hoses:

https://qporzk.github.io/BDB-Slayer/Mod ... SlayerMod/

Also there's a video of the process linked in this thread:

Breville Dual Boiler Mods and Maintenance

Many if not all of the answers to your questions are contained in that thread.

Many thanks Dave. The double edged sword of bookmarking 2 dozen threads and such is...FINDING what you need!I've not gone about this logically...."JIM, I'm a songwriter, not a damn engineer!!!

In the spirit of Usenet, I was gonna rib you a bit and suggest you RTFM.

Although I'm somewhat mechanically inclined, I had a hard time grasping what exactly the "Slayer mod" entailed until I saw the photos and video - which I found to be immensely helpful. How lucky we are to have this great resource! Anyway, take your time and absorb as much info as you can. I spent many hours reading about it before I finally went for it (almost a year and half after it was discovered). Anyway, if you need help with anything feel free to PM.

Cheers!

When I developed the "Slayer mod" (on a hunch given me by HB'er JakeG), I went into it knowing what I was trying to achieve, (to repurpose the water knob for controlling the flow rate out the group, like a...well... water faucet). With that in mind, I followed the water path on the stock machine from the pump, all around the mulberry bush, and on to the group, and decided where I was going divert it through the water tap, after the boiler and before the group. With this in mind, you could essentially reason it out without actually following a specific guide. Just saying.

In the mean time, Roberto. Stop. If you have moved the microswitch out of the way of the water knob. Stop. Place the lid back on without screwing it down, and begin pulling shots. For shots that you feel can benefit from it, use the water knob as necessary to bleed off pressure with no worries that you will cut off the pump.

Go like this for a while until you feel you are ready for something more. And that might be something as little as Chris/Lancelot's variation on what you have already done, in which the excess water is routed back to the tank instead of down the drain.

After that would be the Slayer mod... and only when you feel you are darned good and ready.

-Peter

DaveB wrote:In the spirit of Usenet, I was gonna rib you a bit and suggest you RTFM.

Although I'm somewhat mechanically inclined, I had a hard time grasping what exactly the "Slayer mod" entailed until I saw the photos and video - which I found to be immensely helpful. How lucky we are to have this great resource! Anyway, take your time and absorb as much info as you can. I spent many hours reading about it before I finally went for it (almost a year and half after it was discovered). Anyway, if you need help with anything feel free to PM.

Cheers!

RTFM is my mantra...unless, of course it is applied to ME.

You will regret your invitation....Nah, I'll not bother you. I actually am still feeling that my wet pucks...even after 10 minutes before removing the PF could be caused by the abnormally high OPV. I've not had this with any machine the past 10+ years. Not squirts, the shots are tasty, pucks aren't cracked nor layered. I just don't like messing with all those c-clips and such...I am ordering the forceps from the provided link in one of the threads.
Double cataract surgery gave me 20/15 at distance, but readers get me dizzy. Having someone here to do the close work would be helpful. If I can get the Slayer mod done, I'd guess the OPV wouldn't so much come in to play. Just scares me seeing shots going 9.5, and back flushes going 11.

As always, appreciate all the help.."I'm Not Worthy!!" (repeat and rinse)

I get wet pucks if I do a slow enough finish. BDB or Pavoni direct levers.

So Rob... now I'm confused... where are you in all this? Have you moved the microswitch off of the water knob?

I'll say again. You deserve a break. If you haven't done the Slayer mod, don't. Yet. Just enjoy your new machine for a bit using the "GS/3 mod". You can pull the cover back off later (without the screws holding it down), and ruminate on the Slayer mod while sipping an espresso. And another. And another. Etc...

-Peter

Yawol, mein commandant!!! (clicks heels!!) of course, you're correct...and yes moved the microswitch...all screws in plastic bags marked. Haven't pulled a shot using the knob. Had to make a living this afternoon...meager as it's been lately. I'm really feeling for those who are struggling right now. I've had my day..and decided to teach to give back...some of my students (MTSU) actually accept what I'm throwing out there. That's why I'm kicking myself here for being a such a bad student. Y'all put it out there in black and white...

BTW, the pump on this thing is, to me moderate soundwise. I was expecting worse. Sounds/seems more like a 52 watt than a 41.