Breville Dual Boiler, five+ years on - Page 27

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Moka 1 Cup

#261: Post by Moka 1 Cup »

I'll have to study the preventive maintanance of this machine.

The only thing I know for now is that this evening after preparing three cappuccinos for the family I had probably the best two shots (yes, I had to have one more) of Illy Dark Roast ever. It may be a coincidence, but I tried for the first time to drop the pressure by opening the hot water valve near the end of the shots and they both came out just amazingly good.
four minutes to make an espresso? really?


#262: Post by mrjag »

lancealot wrote:To add to Moka's reply.
It will also blink if it is out of range. If you turn it on and as soon as it is up to temp you start running the water pump, either flushing for long periods or running the tap for 30 seconds or longer, the temp will start blinking when you stop the pump. Also, if you let it fully come to temp for say 30 minutes, then pull a super long shot, like 90 seconds or more, it will blink when you are done.

I think it blinks when the boiler water temp is out of range. In my first example the water in the brew boiler becomes too low because you have not let everything get super hot especially the steam boiler, and the heat exchanger in the steam boiler cannot do it's job of pre-heating the brew water before it gets to the brew boiler. In my second example, I think it blinks because it is too hot. The water was spending too much time in the fully heated up steam boiler as it went through the heat exchanger and it is over heating the water in the brew boiler.
I also agree about the blinking meaning it's out of range. I've learned that if you quickly power cycle the machine (off then back on) and it will momentarily flash the actual temperature before jumping to the programmed temperature and blinking until it's back in range.


#263: Post by pcrussell50 »

jchung wrote:They are 1/8 id 1/4 od p/n 1REC1 and 1/4 id 3/8 od p/n 1REC5 from Grainger.
The 1REC1 is a a size #006. What I and the others who have had longer term success have used is size #007. That right there could be the cause of your short longevity.

Where do you use the 1REC5? That's a #10, and far too big for any of the water tubes. Maybe the sensors? It is rare for the stock sensors to leak.

LMWDP #553


#264: Post by maximatica »

RE: O-rings and other rubber products.

This company makes a lot of useful products and if you can find what you need you can call and they will tell you the McMaster-Carr part no. (as I remember, not 100% positive on this.)

They only sell in large quantities. ... ber-seals/

I found some very small grommets there that I never would have found otherwise (cause I had already looked for an eternity before I found the site).

Hope This Helps.



#265: Post by pcrussell50 »

That sounds like a very good resource for special and odd ball parts. However size #007 o-rings are very standard and common.

These are the ones I used: ... lic&sr=8-3

Or if not an add-on item, you can get them delivered Prime for $12.

LMWDP #553

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#266: Post by jchung » replying to pcrussell50 »

Thanks. I've added them to my cart for my next Amazon order. Needless to say... I am well accustomed to opening the BDB and swapping out the o-rings.

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#267: Post by »

This may have been mentioned (am I lazy?), but is it bad or fine that my steam wand seems to very, very slowly leak? I'm not sure if the tiny amount of water is on the drip tray because I had used it that day or because the steam valve is a touch leaky. Prognosis of my steam wand situation anyone?
I know I've pulled a great shot when the flavour is 'like a beany taste that tastes like a bean'.

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#268: Post by jchung » replying to »

Its common for the steam wand to leak. Mine leaks a little bit. I'm not too worried about it right now. Although a replacement steam valve isn't available, its my understanding that you can take it a part, clean it, replace the o-rings, and it might fix the leak.

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#269: Post by DaveB »

I just posted this update on the other thread before I saw the ones above:

Breville Dual Boiler ball valve detail, pics
Von meinem iPhone gesendet


#270: Post by pcrussell50 »

jchung wrote:Needless to say... I am well accustomed to opening the BDB and swapping out the o-rings.
A valuable skill that will serve you well in a long life with the BDB. If you ever graduate to re-plumbing her through the needle valve, making her into a flow profiler, you are more than well prepped with the skills to do so. More than most of the others who have done it.

And Tony, you should read the ball valve thread, but the sealing surfaces are PTFE washers against the ball. PTFE cold flows and eventually loosens. The first thing to do flip the washers around so the un-worn side is now against the ball. When you screw the parts together, you want to feel the drag of the ball against the washers. In some cases, you might be able crack the thread locker and get a partial extra turn of tightness for a temporary fix without disassembly. But over the long haul, disassembly is going to be the order of the day, and cracking the threadlocker is going to be required. I've had a couple I could crack with the 6mm hex key, and a couple I had to heat with a propane torch to break it down. It's in the thread toward the end.

LMWDP #553