Breville Dual Boiler ball valve detail, pics - Page 29

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pcrussell50 (original poster)

#281: Post by pcrussell50 (original poster) »

*sigh* wrote:Alright, initial results from 2 layers of PTFE seem good so far. I'll watch it over the next couple of days until the silicone arrives then I'll probably take it apart and reinstall with new tape/silicone.
Good info, thanks. This repair is still new enough that any oddities and how to address them are very much worth knowing about. Thanks for sharing.

LMWDP #553


#282: Post by Darkhog »

Ok, I've overcome a few challenges with this steam wand repair. After torqueing down the connections a bit more, is now leaking out the mechanism itself. Looking at this post, it seems there is an o-ring in there as well. Peter confirmed and says this is an #8, which means I won't have this one on hand.

I didn't realize that once the valve is disassembled and the ball is out, the stem will just push into the valve, and then you can inspect the o-ring. Mine doesn't look great - I cleaned it up and put some silicone grease on it and it seems to have helped.

If anyone has a link to a #8, that'd be great too. I think these are my choices, and this appears to be the FDA approved 008 silicone o-ring (I use these for the 007 and 010 rings)

Also - while I'm buying the 008, are there any others I should pick up now for later to save on time and shipping? I have 007 and 010.

Here's what I was seeing before removing the stem, cleaning, and applying silicone grease.

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#283: Post by Darkhog »

One other note - if you're pulling this apart, the tools that fit the various pieces are a 6mm hex wrench for the inside, then a 13mm, 14mm, and 15mm wrench size for each of the other places a wrench fits.


#284: Post by Darkhog »

Since I wasn't able to find a video that talked about how to remove the steam valve handle before doing this repair, I made a video with some pictures. I hope this helps someone out there. Also, the 008 o-ring was delivered, and replacing it fixed the leak on my valve stem. It is a bit of a pain to get the o-ring off, but otherwise straight forward. Thank you @pcrussel50 for all your helpful videos and replies.

pcrussell50 (original poster)

#285: Post by pcrussell50 (original poster) »

Gang... I won't be posting much here for the time being, if ever. If anyone needs to reach me, I'm still very happy to help the amazing BDB community but you will have to reach me by commenting one of my youtube videos or reaching out to my gmail, using my HB user name at...

LMWDP #553


#286: Post by DaveB »

Apparently I hadn't tightened quite enough after flipping the seals, as there was still a few drips coming through, as well as this:

In the meantime, I had an idea, but was waiting for these to come back in stock at Harbor Freight (a mere $10 for the set).

The idea was to tighten from the bottom, as once the threadlocker on the inner part is broken, both pieces will turn together (at least they did on the bench). With the 14mm crowfoot wrench locked and loaded, I prepared to tighten, as I imagined being celebrated on HB for my mechanical prowess...

-but it wouldn't budge! [cue wah wah wah trumpet] These parts are separate from the body, which is held by the clamp. Turning the 14mm nut on the bench allowed the inner piece to freely move as well, so not sure what gives.
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