Breville Dual Boiler ball valve detail, pics - Page 26

March 2nd, 2021, 5:54 pm

I didn't realize ereplacements had them back in stock - that is even easier. I haven't heard of anyone damaging it with heat, but you never know.

March 2nd, 2021, 5:55 pm

I didn't realize ereplacements had them back in stock - that is even easier. I haven't heard of anyone damaging it with heat, but you never know.

dshavers wrote:Thanks so much, and that, for sure, breaths some relief. I think my wife might kill me if she see the top open again, but if I have the time, I will get a closer photo for you. I went ahead and ordered a new valve from ereplacements, and since I've ordered a new machine, I'll just put this one away, while I wait a few months for it to arrive. The only thing I can think off, is that since I had to use some heat to get the allen wrench portion off, that maybe something got damaged inside

#253: Post by **dshavers** » March 2nd, 2021, 6:01 pm

Well it shows that it's a special order, which doesn't say "out of stock" or "backorder" so I guess I'll see. Yeah I'm trying to think how anything that I did would have damaged it. Mine is one of the original BDB, so it was pretty tarnished and dirty, but I'm going to send the old valve over to Pete to take a look once my new machine gets here.

#254: Post by **TCapone** » March 3rd, 2021, 11:47 pm

dshavers wrote:OK

Took it apart, changed PTFE washers with new ones, lubed the stem and washer, so it would operate a little smoother, and still leaks at the joint that sits behind the metal brace. I'm assuming at the joint where the allen wrench area goes in. It feels like every time the valve open up, the ball puts enough pressure on the washer that it feels to start unscrewing a bit. If I go tighter I can't even spin the valve. So I'm at a loss. I followed the directions to a tee. Unless I need to crank area the bottom joint tighter (area that goes into the allen wrench area). The other thing that I noticed during one of my re-installs, is that I remove the top so I can see the ball, that it was getting stuck, and not opening up fully, so I thought that it was possible that steam was building up, but I'm pretty sure I that wasn't the case the last time.

I did get the steam boiler fixed though.

I'm about ready to throw this thing out the window.

I too had this problem when I resealed my valve.

I ended up buffing the ball part of the valve with steel wool, not sure if it helped but definitely gave a smoother surface.

I couldn't get the valve to reseal with new PTFE washers so I flipped the old ones over. Even though one was clearly out of round on the inner diameter it worked, go figure

There was a lot of trial and error as far as how much to tighten the piece that puts load on the ball portion of the valve. Too loose and it leaks, too tight and you can't open the valve. I ended up going as tight as I could where I couldn't open the valve by hand but could open it with needle nose pliers. The valve opened fine once connected to the stock Breville knob mechanism. I think over time the PTFE wears into the ball and it's even easier to open now, that is until it eventually wears and drips again.

Keep at it, best of luck sorting it out!

March 4th, 2021, 4:52 pm

TCapone wrote:
There was a lot of trial and error as far as how much to tighten the piece that puts load on the ball portion of the valve. Too loose and it leaks, too tight and you can't open the valve.

Yessiree.

TCapone wrote:I ended up going as tight as I could where I couldn't open the valve by hand but could open it with needle nose pliers. The valve opened fine once connected to the stock Breville knob mechanism.

This ^^^ Is what has always worked for me. I tighten the two halves together until I cannot turn the stub by hand, but with some pliers or the Breville steam paddle, it feels like "just right" friction.

TCapone wrote:I think over time the PTFE wears into the ball and it's even easier to open now, that is until it eventually wears and drips again.

Yeppers. This is precisely what happens. The PTFE eventually "flows" and gets "loose" again and the steam starts to get by again. With the thicker washers, you might not have to disassemble again, just make another turn of the valve halves, until the friction is right, if you did not have them all the way together.

-Peter

March 4th, 2021, 7:38 pm

Here is BDB veteran DaveB, who finally got a steam drip and addressed it.

Well done, Dave.

-Peter

#257: Post by **DaveB** » March 5th, 2021, 12:12 am

pcrussell50 wrote:here is BDB veteran DaveB, who finally got a steam drip and addressed it.

Actually, truth be told, my first BDB started dripping at only 3 months, and I finally sent it in under warranty many months later. Then it started leaking again not long after, along with a boiler seal "hisser". I contacted Breville and politely expressed my dismay at having leaks again so soon after being repaired, and the next thing I knew I had a brand new BDB at my doorstep.

The new machine started the slow drip at 11 months. This time I only waited a week or so before taking on the repair, armed with all the great tips people have shared - especially the BDB Guru himself, who discovered the trick of flipping the seals almost 2 years ago to the day. I raise my espresso cup to you all.

Cheers!

#258: Post by **mikegray** » March 5th, 2021, 8:39 am

Ugh ...

I'm going to set a record for the dumbest wannabe DIY post ever, but ... I wanted to fix my leaky steamer valve, and I got stuck before I even got to the difficult part. Specifically: I figured out how to open the machine, I even figured out how to remove the clips - I even found a o-ring that flicked into the depths of the machine -

But blamed if I can figure out how to remove the valve assembly from the macine itself! How the heck do I remove the thing so I can start taking it apart??

#259: Post by **DaveB** » March 5th, 2021, 11:18 am

Remove the little clip below and it pulls straight up. Note: it's not necessary to remove the swivel piece on top; just disconnect the clip where the white hose attaches.

March 5th, 2021, 12:04 pm

mikegray wrote:Ugh ...

I'm going to set a record for the dumbest wannabe DIY post ever, but ... I wanted to fix my leaky steamer valve, and I got stuck before I even got to the difficult part. Specifically: I figured out how to open the machine, I even figured out how to remove the clips - I even found a o-ring that flicked into the depths of the machine -

But blamed if I can figure out how to remove the valve assembly from the macine itself! How the heck do I remove the thing so I can start taking it apart??

Yes, just as Dave says. There is one more hairpin clip right at the bottom of the valve assembly in the dog bone shaped bracket, by the bottom of the red circle you have drawn.

Some more things:

1) Now that you have removed the screws for the top cover, do not put them back unless you need to ship the machine somewhere. Put them aside somewhere safe. This way, you can simply lift off the top cover any time the situation calls for a look

2) You should obtain a supply of size #007 o-rings in silicone. This is what the machine uses and they wear out and need replacement every couple of years. They should be reasonably priced. Amazon USA sells them for $2.99 USD for 100 of them.

3) Every plumbing junction held by a hairpin clip has an o-ring under it.

-Petet