I think I found an option for this part at:
https://outwestcoffee.com.au/index.php/ ... -complete/

I just placed an order for the ball valve and a few other maintenance parts since I would have to pay for shipping. I took the chance because it will be much less than send my machine in for service if it works. Fingers crossed, the parts arrive, and they are as described.

Do you have plans for your old ball valve? If not, I'll take it. I'll pay shipping.

Since you are new, you do know that this ball valve is serviceable, correct? It's important that users know this before sinking money and international shipping on a new one.

-Peter

First off, thank you guys so much for creating this thread. I've been suffering from the dreaded spitting-dripping wand for a while. I was just about to throw in the towel, and get a new machine, before I found this fix. I took everything apart this morning, flipped the washers, and so far, no dripping anymore from the wand. I do have one issue, but not sure if it's normal, or something went wrong during the install. During startup, and sometimes when opening the steam wand, I'm getting some bubbling from around the top where the tube attaches to the valve. It seems to slow or go away once the machine is up to temp, and it seems to do it slightly when steaming.

The only o-ring that I replaced was the one that was on the little piece that goes in from the inside where the ball attaches to. I'm thinking maybe the stem? I replaced it with a 008. It was a little difficult to get pushed back in, so that the ball could fit inside properly,but eventually got into place. http://www.vimeo.com/517635568/

Well done. You did the "hard" part.

The assembled valve is clipped into the steam path using those hairpin clips with a #007 o-ring at each end. It sounds like you have one that either needs replacing from normal wear, or you clipped or cut it damaging it during re install.

$2.99 USD from Amazon or eBay for a bag of 100 in silicone. Or you can do what the cool kids do an use AFLAS... Which was in part invented by a rocket scientist who is also an HB member. Breville uses silicone. But the application charts show AFLAS as superior. I use silicone simply because I already have a lifetime supply.

-Peter

Thanks so much for the reply. I do have a whole bag of those, so I'll try replacing them. One thing to note when removing everything, is that after un-clipping the top, the valve came right out leaving the white tube exposed on the bottom. I've circled the area.

Yes, that is normal. Although even on the bottom tube, everywhere there is a clip, there is also an o-ring. Neither the ones on the top of the valve in either end of the elbow, nor the one on the bottom, are common leakers though they probably would eventually. Mostly they leak from damage from human error when removing and replacing the valve. A little dab of silicone grease is your friend here.

-Peter

Ok replaced o rings. And tightened up the valve itself. There was a little play. Now I'm noticing another leak at I think the boiler. Where the two white caps are.

Sorry forgot photo.

Also, of course, lost the bottom clip when trying to get it back on

Update. And last post for the night. Seems like I have two main leaks, one at the boiler area, and one at the connection on the valve itself. Specifically at the area that has to removed with an Allen wrench. I tried using teflon tape which maybe is hurting the connection.

dshavers wrote: Sorry forgot photo.

Also, of course, lost the bottom clip when trying to get it back on

Booo! You violated the BDB commandment! "Thou shalt not drop a clip!" You handle the clips as if you are performing brain surgery on your own child.*

The steam boiler o-rings age in a very deterministic fashion. When one reaches the end of it's life, you can be sure the others have too, even if they are not yet leaking. It's not a crap shoot. They all age and they will all eventually need replacement, just as surely as your tires, brakes and windshield wipers do. At that point, you can either replace them all, or if you do the other trick that all the cool kids do besides using AFLAS o-rings, and that is to not put the screws back in your top cover, you can just lift it off any time you like and replace o-rings as you find leaks. BUT doing it that way, it's harder to keep track of which ones are newer and which are older. And at $3 for a hundred, it's not much fiscal loss in replacing them all.

*Somewhere in my seminal first post in the "mods and maintenance" thread, I cut and pasted the good work of another BDB community member who sized out the clips and found which ones at your local Big Orange Espresso Supply will work. Or you can take out the water tank and flip your machine over and see if you can get it back that way. I'm not joking. People have done this. I would, too. You do know where your local Big Orange is, don't you?

-Peter

Haha yeah I'm pretty sure I know where that store is. I'm going to take one more pass tonight. Removing Teflon tape from the threaded area (allen wrench area) and just tighten it as much as I can. Thats the area leaking the most.