Breville Dual Boiler ball valve detail, pics - Page 21

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pcrussell50 (original poster)
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#201: Post by pcrussell50 (original poster) »

DaveB wrote:Thanks for the video! Is it intentionally silent? A bit of running commentary might be helpful.
Works for me. Check your volume? :shrugs:

-Peter
LMWDP #553

DaveB
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Joined: 6 years ago

#202: Post by DaveB »

pcrussell50 wrote:Works for me. Check your volume? :shrugs:
It worked on the iPhone, so I restarted the iMac and all was well. Now the only thing I can complain about is the vertical video! :D

Thanks again for posting - this will be immensely helpful down the road. Cheers!
Von meinem iPhone gesendet

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pcrussell50 (original poster)
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Joined: 15 years ago

#203: Post by pcrussell50 (original poster) »

DaveB wrote:It worked on the iPhone, so I restarted the iMac and all was well. Now the only thing I can complain about is the vertical video!!
Yes, sorry about the vertical video. I'm actually aware of it. Wife was out doing errands and I had to rig my ancient iphone up using a soldering stand. In the meantime, my little girl (six) came in all hyped up about something and I had to try to wave her off.

-Peter
LMWDP #553

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lancealot
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#204: Post by lancealot »

Nice work!

DaveB
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#205: Post by DaveB »

pcrussell50 wrote:Video how-to, flipping the PTFE seals to stop the drip:
So I'm going to go out on a limb and guess that the valve is the brand new, unused one you pulled out of your replacement BDB. :D

It's been well documented that there's some sort of thread locker on the hex-nut side (video shows it being spun off at 00:46), which is often easily removed with a bit of heat. So I'm curious: how hard was it to disassemble on the brand new unit? Also, when you reassemble, it looks like everything is just tight enough to add a bit of friction on the ball with the flipped seals. At 02:01 in the video where you reassemble the hex-nut side and screw it in finger tight, you add the nut behind it. Is this also finger tight only - despite it having wrench flats? If so, what keeps the inner piece from spinning loose(er) from vibration? I'm guessing this might be why thread locker was added in the first place.
Von meinem iPhone gesendet

pcrussell50 (original poster)
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Joined: 15 years ago

#206: Post by pcrussell50 (original poster) replying to DaveB »

It actually wasn't brand new. It had about a year of service on it. The way you can tell is the blackened color of the ball. I took it off a year-old machine to put on the ancient ball valve from an original -900, that someone had donated to me for "research". That ancient ball valve is still in use more than a year later, after flipping the seals, without a single drip. In fact, the ball valve in the video, with a year of service on it, did not come apart easily without heat. The internal wrench flats are nearly stripped from trying to unscrew it cold. I needed to use some heat to soften the thread sealer. I used my creme brûlée torch and didn't blast it very hard. Then it came apart easily. With a little heat, the thread sealer went from a locker, to a lubricant... It just slipped right apart.

-Peter
LMWDP #553

jevenator
Posts: 640
Joined: 5 years ago

#207: Post by jevenator »

I tried to just use the hex key and it wouldn't budge. This may have done very little but I held it on top of my stove for a little bit and it after a minute it wasn't even that hot to the touch so I didn't cook the life out of it, haha or else it would've retained heat a lot longer. I was able to unscrew it quite easy holding the body in a make-shift vice.

I wanted to share as well that my steam power is much stronger now as well. I guess pressure builds up a lot more, no slow leak and I get a very powerful steam blast. So, I'm guessing is that steam will leak first and then you get water drops over an even longer time. Both negatively impacting steaming performance.

Edit: just realized this and relevant to the steam power even though it's not numbers it can give you an idea. I would start my shot (I flow profile everything and shots are around 40-50 seconds. I start steaming 8 oz at around 5-7 seconds, aerate and place jug with steam wand submerged on drip tray. Finish shot, take out portafilter, dump the puck, rinse under faucet and return to just about the milk getting to 140F which is when I stop it. I've developed a really nice routine doing shot after shot.

Now my 8oz of milk reaches 140F before I barely have the time to remove the portafilter.

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jimnboulder
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#208: Post by jimnboulder »

I only wish I went to the last page first.
Flipping the white washers fixed my problem.

pcrussell50 (original poster)
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#209: Post by pcrussell50 (original poster) replying to jimnboulder »

Good observation, Jim. I will put a link from the last page, up to the first, at the top, in italics. Hopefully that helps others going forward.

Congratulations on the repair. This is really one of the areas that gets people into a needless kerfuffle. Say, did you use heat the soften the thread sealer? or did it come loose just with the 6mm hex key?

-Peter
LMWDP #553

wazza_c12
Posts: 2
Joined: 3 years ago

#210: Post by wazza_c12 »

Hi Peter, thankyou for the helpful video - I had a go, however when everything was back together the steam wand had stopped leaking but operated at about half the "power" of what it was previously. Also, the odd drip of water appeared from around the top of the steam wand. I pulled it apart again thinking I just needed to tighten things up

Unfortunately now the steam wand has almost no power and continues leaking steam slowly and gently for a number of seconds after the lever is returned to the off position.

Any ideas where Ive gone wrong? Possibly the o rings? I'm not sure what "clip an oring" means. I just slide the valve back on the white pipe, replace the cap and retaining clip. Thanks again for the video and any additional advice.
Cheers
Waz