Breville Dual Boiler ball valve detail, pics - Page 21

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DaveB

#201: Post by DaveB »

Thanks for the video! Is it intentionally silent? A bit of running commentary might be helpful.
Von meinem iPhone gesendet

pcrussell50

#202: Post by pcrussell50 » replying to DaveB »

Works for me. Check your volume? :shrugs:

-Peter
LMWDP #553

DaveB

#203: Post by DaveB »

pcrussell50 wrote:Works for me. Check your volume? :shrugs:
It worked on the iPhone, so I restarted the iMac and all was well. Now the only thing I can complain about is the vertical video! :D

Thanks again for posting - this will be immensely helpful down the road. Cheers!
Von meinem iPhone gesendet

pcrussell50

#204: Post by pcrussell50 »

DaveB wrote:It worked on the iPhone, so I restarted the iMac and all was well. Now the only thing I can complain about is the vertical video!!
Yes, sorry about the vertical video. I'm actually aware of it. Wife was out doing errands and I had to rig my ancient iphone up using a soldering stand. In the meantime, my little girl (six) came in all hyped up about something and I had to try to wave her off.

-Peter
LMWDP #553

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lancealot

#205: Post by lancealot »

Nice work!

DaveB

#206: Post by DaveB »

pcrussell50 wrote:Video how-to, flipping the PTFE seals to stop the drip:
So I'm going to go out on a limb and guess that the valve is the brand new, unused one you pulled out of your replacement BDB. :D

It's been well documented that there's some sort of thread locker on the hex-nut side (video shows it being spun off at 00:46), which is often easily removed with a bit of heat. So I'm curious: how hard was it to disassemble on the brand new unit? Also, when you reassemble, it looks like everything is just tight enough to add a bit of friction on the ball with the flipped seals. At 02:01 in the video where you reassemble the hex-nut side and screw it in finger tight, you add the nut behind it. Is this also finger tight only - despite it having wrench flats? If so, what keeps the inner piece from spinning loose(er) from vibration? I'm guessing this might be why thread locker was added in the first place.
Von meinem iPhone gesendet

pcrussell50

#207: Post by pcrussell50 » replying to DaveB »

It actually wasn't brand new. It had about a year of service on it. The way you can tell is the blackened color of the ball. I took it off a year-old machine to put on the ancient ball valve from an original -900, that someone had donated to me for "research". That ancient ball valve is still in use more than a year later, after flipping the seals, without a single drip. In fact, the ball valve in the video, with a year of service on it, did not come apart easily without heat. The internal wrench flats are nearly stripped from trying to unscrew it cold. I needed to use some heat to soften the thread sealer. I used my creme brûlée torch and didn't blast it very hard. Then it came apart easily. With a little heat, the thread sealer went from a locker, to a lubricant... It just slipped right apart.

-Peter
LMWDP #553

jevenator

#208: Post by jevenator »

I tried to just use the hex key and it wouldn't budge. This may have done very little but I held it on top of my stove for a little bit and it after a minute it wasn't even that hot to the touch so I didn't cook the life out of it, haha or else it would've retained heat a lot longer. I was able to unscrew it quite easy holding the body in a make-shift vice.

I wanted to share as well that my steam power is much stronger now as well. I guess pressure builds up a lot more, no slow leak and I get a very powerful steam blast. So, I'm guessing is that steam will leak first and then you get water drops over an even longer time. Both negatively impacting steaming performance.

Edit: just realized this and relevant to the steam power even though it's not numbers it can give you an idea. I would start my shot (I flow profile everything and shots are around 40-50 seconds. I start steaming 8 oz at around 5-7 seconds, aerate and place jug with steam wand submerged on drip tray. Finish shot, take out portafilter, dump the puck, rinse under faucet and return to just about the milk getting to 140F which is when I stop it. I've developed a really nice routine doing shot after shot.

Now my 8oz of milk reaches 140F before I barely have the time to remove the portafilter.
LMWDP #643