Breville Dual Boiler ball valve detail, pics - Page 11

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pcrussell50 (original poster)
Posts: 4010
Joined: 15 years ago

#101: Post by pcrussell50 (original poster) »

Definitely take advantage of the warranty while it's offered. And do it through Breville. Believe it or not, they do make little changes over time. If you just returned it to Costco, I fear Breville would have less solid info as to exactly what the problem was.

In any event, over the long haul, it appears these valves are user-resealable. Right now, in my current nearly new BDB, I'm using the nastiest looking ooold valve you have ever seen, donated to me by another user who had replaced it, and it's not leaking a drop.

-Peter
LMWDP #553

mrjag
Posts: 343
Joined: 9 years ago

#102: Post by mrjag »

DaveB wrote:I've been wondering if turning up the boiler to the max of 185° hastened the leaking of the valve.
I have my steam boiler maxed out without any issues.

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pcrussell50 (original poster)
Posts: 4010
Joined: 15 years ago

#103: Post by pcrussell50 (original poster) replying to mrjag »

Time, heat and pressure will always prevail. The good news is, it's an easy fix. Windshield wipers become brittle and streak. Brake pads wear thin. O-rings and PTFE seals eventually leak. No matter the brand. It's all part of espresso life.

-Peter
LMWDP #553

DaveB
Posts: 955
Joined: 6 years ago

#104: Post by DaveB »

pcrussell50 wrote:Definitely take advantage of the warranty while it's offered. And do it through Breville. Believe it or not, they do make little changes over time. If you just returned it to Costco, I fear Breville would have less solid info as to exactly what the problem was.
Agree 100%. I could easily return the BDB to Costco for full credit, but that seems counterproductive and wasteful; also the more leaky steam valves get sent back to Breville, the sooner they're likely to address what appears to be the only real weakness with the machine.

It's great to now know how easy an out-of-warranty fix is! Thanks to all have contributed efforts toward the cause. The BDB is a keeper!
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pcrussell50 (original poster)
Posts: 4010
Joined: 15 years ago

#105: Post by pcrussell50 (original poster) »

Just a short update on my easily repaired, natty old ball valve from three weeks ago... And? Still going strong. Hasn't leaked a drop. Nice smooth friction on the handle so the seals have sealing pressure against the ball.

Breville Dual Boiler ball valve detail, pics

-Peter
LMWDP #553
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Bacek
Posts: 43
Joined: 8 years ago

#106: Post by Bacek »

For some time I was planing to disassembly this valve because it was slightly leaking. Your post with pictures was a trigger to do it. But I wanted to do it more gentle way you did.

Everything what is needed is wrench no 14 (metric), Allen hex key 6mm, something to hold the valve (vise, adjustable spanner, wrench 15).
Wrench 13 could be used to open other side of valve, but I don't thing it's needed.



So this is my set of tools, I have used 14, spanner and allen key.

First using 14 and spanner unscrew one side, to be on safe side valve could be warped with thin leather before mounting it in spanner or vise.
My spanner don't have any sharp edges and there was no need to do strong grip in my case so I skiped it.



then using Allen key open second part



and we are ready for cleanup, this is completely dismounted but only left part is required



I have cut silicone gasket (ID 6mm, OD 9mm) to add some additional tension and placed it under Teflon one from one side only.
It's made from silicon cupcake form. It's about 0.6mm thin and probably shouldn't be thicker.



After mounting everything back, valve still looks stunning.

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DaveB
Posts: 955
Joined: 6 years ago

#107: Post by DaveB »

Wow, that pictorial is about as good as it gets. Thanks for posting!
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Bacek
Posts: 43
Joined: 8 years ago

#108: Post by Bacek »

For me scraping whole large part only because some small, few cents worth, piece broke is illogical.

Where are ecco fanatics when they are actually needed. Molding this valve took lot's of energy and producing a seal or actually only descaling valve is inexpensive and environment friendly approach.

Any way originally I thought this part is stainless steel unfortunately not, and part of ball already lost its coating so probably after some time I'll end up swapping it to steel version.

Ok, now it's time to check on hot water valve.

pcrussell50 (original poster)
Posts: 4010
Joined: 15 years ago

#109: Post by pcrussell50 (original poster) »

Great pictorial. But two of my four valves would not come apart using the 6mm hex key. The thread locker was too tight. I needed heat from a torch, to break the thread locker.

How did your repair work? Any leaks?

-Peter
LMWDP #553

Bacek
Posts: 43
Joined: 8 years ago

#110: Post by Bacek »

So far works, but it's fairly new.
Sure sometimes it can be stacked. You could try to descale it first or treat (or even soak) with something like WD40.

Sometimes for round parts I use sticking foam tape (leather wrapping should be even better). On tight grip there still will be some scratches but not as bad. (Silvia's steaming wand)

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