McMaster-Carr does have silicone sealing washers: http://www.mcmaster.com/#silicone-seali ... rs/=9887mv .

If the link does not work, just search their site for "sealing washers". Also, that heating element sealing is very similar to the original Rancilio Silvia heating element sealing - perhaps a larger size thread.

edit - the bevel on the inside of the heating element flange, to me, makes this the perfect sealing application for a silicone o-ring. As far as tightening the outer nuts, I'd be a little cautious there because you are stretching a threaded member that has been bored out to accept the element sheath. With an o-ring on the inside, all you should need to do is "snug it up" with maybe a drop of low strength Loctite threadlocker on the threads.

PictureThyme wrote:After rebuilding the steam boiler with the old heating element (I know, should be replaced), I filled the tank with water just to test it out. The sight glass and the pipes running to that were not leaking. The boiler end cap wasn't leaking but the nuts holding the heating element were weeping water slowly. Ugh!

I tried, as Paul had told me to tighten the nuts up pretty snugly, but that didn't work. I tried with teflon, without teflon, with teflon and with copper washer and copper washers without teflon. Are you tired yet? I was. Still leaked. So, I ordered a new heating element. Repeated the whole process and got the same results. Leaks.

This time I took apart the tank, and took some pictures. It was suggested I use a whole bunch more teflon to seal the leaks. There has got to be a better way. I noticed looking at the end cap, the holes for the heating element are counter sunk inside the tank and thus causing the leaks. Does anyone have any suggestions for a better way to seal this? Does some company make angle washers to better fill the connection? Thanks in advance.
Steve

Hi there:

Just wanna make sure I understand - the sealing washers go on the inside of the flange, right? I don't think that they go on the side that shows in the pic, if that's the outside. Sealing washers will leak down the threads if you put them on the outside. Same thing will happen if you install an o-ring in the chamfer on the outside.

-Greg

erics wrote:McMaster-Carr does have silicone sealing washers: http://www.mcmaster.com/#silicone-seali ... rs/=9887mv .

If the link does not work, just search their site for "sealing washers". Also, that heating element sealing is very similar to the original Rancilio Silvia heating element sealing - perhaps a larger size thread.

edit - the bevel on the insdie of the heating element flange, to me, makes this the perfect sealing application for a silicone o-ring. As far as tightening the outer nuts, I'd be a little cautious there because you are stretching a threaded member that has been bored out to accept the element sheath. With an o-ring on the inside, all you should need to do is "snug it up" with maybe a drop of low strength Loctite threadlocker on the threads.

Looking at the pic again, and I agree with Eric, that it appears designed for an o-ring seal, but if it were my machine i'd be measuring the chamfer dimensions and referring to parker's O-ring handbook for sizing. I would ask LM what material is correct for that application. If in fact the chamfer is for an o-ring, then you should be able to tighten down the thread to the point of metal to metal contact without worry.

-greg

I sent the guys at LM the same picture and after having a couple people look at it they suggested using more teflon tape. I wondered about an O-ring but also wonder how long it would last being seated up against a 1300W heating element.

Potential solutions are:
- copper crush washers
- o-rings
- fiber gasket (same as the one for the steam boiler level sensor)
- teflon tape or maybe a teflon washer

I think I'll go see the nut and screw guys tomorrow and see what they have. I'll report back.
Thank you all for the suggestions.

Just wanna make sure I understand - the sealing washers go on the inside of the flange, right? I don't think that they go on the side that shows in the pic, if that's the outside. Sealing washers will leak down the threads if you put them on the outside. Same thing will happen if you install an o-ring in the chamfer on the outside

Greg,
Just for clarification, the picture shows the inside of the boiler end plate.
Steve

Here are more close-up pictures of the details of my CPU box.

I sent the guys at LM the same picture and after having a couple people look at it they suggested using more teflon tape. I wondered about an O-ring but also wonder how long it would last being seated up against a 1300W heating element.

I would call back and hope I get different people. In this particular application, teflon tape is simply incorrect. You would think they should be able to tell you to use LM P/N XYZ and I would wager that, in fact, that part is a silicone o-ring. The two in my Silvia (admittedly not used much nowadays) have been going pretty strong for over 10 years at a higher temp than you see in that steam boiler.

Eric,
Of all the possible solutions, a flexible o-ring seems to be the best potential solution to my leaky boiler.

Everyone,
Thanks for the input.

Wow, looking good. Keep going....

Mark

It's been quite a while since I've posted here or done much with my Linea. We have been doing some major renovations on our house--kitchen, living room, dining room: all interconnected rooms--and the machine was buried under all the furniture stored in a bedroom. But today, I finally finished up putting the machine back together, tightened up the copper connections, connected the water supply, and the electrical. Lights, power, action.

There is a dedicated space where the machine will go once we are finally done with the built-in cabinets at the end of the dining room that has dedicated 220 power, water and drain.

There's still lots of work to be done. Trim needs to be refinished. Need to reroute and tie up the wires and move the controller box with PID and the control box are installed in the component box sitting on top of them machine. This will eventually be moved below the machine mounted underneath. After I get some taller legs and some sort of rail system like the one Paul used, I'll mount the box. It has two small fans that will keep everything cool in there. All in time.

Everything seems to be working well. The new PID is programmed to 203F, fuzzy logic keeps things around that temp.

I had one little issue with the flow meter. I found that the red and white wires were crossed feeding incorrect data to the controller. The metered dosing was not working. After reading through the training guides and other materials that members of this site generously shared, I was able to determine the problem and dosing works just great.

This is a low-res image of the Linea with the control box on top while being tested. Thanks to everyone on the site who've helped with information, suggestions, and support. And thanks to the guys at La Marzocco and EPNW for parts, the wiring diagram and support.