Advice on resurrecting a mothballed Rancilio Classe 8 - Page 2

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#11: Post by ira » Oct 12, 2019, 1:23 am

2ndcrack wrote:The hose is the boiler drain. Doh!

I'm still trying to figure out if it is safe to use Dezcal as the boiler does appear to be aluminum. There's nothing online to indicate what Rancilio used for material.
I have a Classe 6 and it's got a copper boiler, I assume the classe 8 is a similar commercial machine and so it's most likely nickel plated copper or stainless. If you can, I'd pull the heating element and have a look inside.



#12: Post by cebseb » Oct 12, 2019, 2:31 am

The Rancilio classe 8 was my very first rebuild! Oh the memories. Solid performer but probably the most over engineered water level sensor EVER. The sight glass shows the level of the water inside the boiler, but instead of the water level sensor being inside the boiler, is actually on the sight glass in the form of a board with two metal clips at the top and bottom of the sight glass. When water fills the sight glass, a circuit is completed and the auto-fill does not trigger. When the water moves below the top metal clip, the circuit breaks which triggers the auto-fill until the circuit is unbroken once again. A problem occurs when condensation and/or scale collects on the sight glass. The auto-fill will not trigger in this case. It took me far too long to diagnose the issue. I hope my story helps you avoid the same issues I had.

Full stop. No half measures. Thankful to be in such a supportive community.


#13: Post by Hapje » Oct 12, 2019, 3:36 am

Hey! Good luck with your restoration project! I recently bought a Classe 9 Xcelsius and am trying to figure out why only extraction is failing. If anyone is familiar with the Classe series I would appreciate the help as well!


#14: Post by 2ndcrack » Today, 2:18 pm

So I've been busy off and on cleaning up the machine when I get the time. I reassembled the machine to test and was planning on hooking it up to the 220v receptacle in my kitchen. Unfortunately the plug pin-out was different, which is fine because I now have a few other questions.

A friend of mine who is an electrician indicated that it appeared to be configured for 110v vs 220v, and the electrical diagram does reference any specific way to tell. To make matters worse the machine information sticker is virtually unreadable so I cannot deduce the voltage from there.

The pics below show my connection. Mine differs from the manual in that it is hooked up the L2 vs L1, but with jumpers that should not matter. Is there anything else I can check? I think its far fetched that a 2group would be setup for 110v, but I'm sure it is possible.


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#15: Post by Almico » Today, 2:33 pm

2ndcrack wrote:That water was actually what was left in the boiler. The water I drained was much cleaner. I'll try soaking the deposits to see if they soften.
If the machine was stored over the winter with water in it, and it took a freeze, there could be other issues.

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#16: Post by ira » Today, 2:50 pm

Measuring the resistance of one of the elements should answer the 110/220 question, though unless it's a 1 group it's almost guaranteed not going to be 110V. If you remove the control box and take the cover off you might find a transformer with a voltage rating on it. I would also guess from the schematic that the machine can be possible be wired for single or three phase so you need to check for that also. Only because if it's wired for 3 phase and you assume it's single it might be confusing.