Just found this on craigslist, she was here on the site a few years ago and must've lost her way. It is the same old girl as in this thread, I am almost certain: /elektra-si ... 17898.html . She is in exactly the same condition as she was back then, except missing some parts and the id tag, and the wiring is partially gone. I hope I can get her back to work, she is such a beautiful machine.

So far this is what I have found to be missing:

1.) The pump is gone.

2.) The diffuser plate, center screw, solenoid and chrome down tube for one of the groups.

3.) The (2) red lights and (1) green light.

4.) The heating element gasket.

5.) The programming key switch assembly.

The wiring to the 2 group solenoids was cut, so I will need to figure that out, and the wiring from the main switch to the pressurestat, heating element and the thermoswitch are gone. The tank has been descaled, but the HX's are still filled with scale. The ID tag was also removed, and the porta filters and all of the sheet metal screws are gone.

Of course I was hoping I could bring her home and just plug her in, but I guess it could be worse. At least I can keep her from ending up in the scrapyard and get her back in working order eventually.

Had a rebuilt procon laying around, got the wiring figured out, I think. Couple more pics.

That is just a couple hundred in parts. Odd that the wiring was missing and one solenoid was cut. Hopefully that group did not have an issue, like a ruptured heat exchange from freeze damage. It is a common machine so you should be able to scrape up the parts. You may want to try Stefano over at Espressocare. He carries a lot of Elektra parts and is well versed in them.

Yes, I dont know why the wiring was cut, but I think I have it all figured out, as long as the boiler or HX's arent ruptured or cracked anywhere and the two dosepads work I should be pretty good with this thing. For a hundred bucks I could not let it slide. I need a 220V, 2 ganger like a hole in my head, I have so many espresso machines it is ridiculous. The Elektras are such beautiful and classic machines, it was just too hard to pass up. I hope being in southern California that it was never frozen up, it looks really good inside the boiler, I will find out shortly and post the progress I make. I'm in the middle of another e-61 spare parts project so buying a bunch of new parts is out of the question right now, but I will be able to get one group going and verify the integrity of the boiler pretty quickly. For sure, Stefano is like a lighthouse in a storm, I just got a used group from him last week for my other project.

So many old espresso machines, so little time....

Take care with the steam/water ball valves. Elektra discontinued the old style and parts are not available for them. If you have the old style valves and break something you have to replace the entire assembly which is quite expensive as I recall.

Well I think Im ok with this thing, I put an o-ring under the heating element (just to test with), and got all of the boiler and water lines connected and sealed and pressure tested the boiler to 2 bar and the HX side to 130 psi. I had to work a couple of lines hard, but everything sealed up without any tape or sealant eventually. I dont have any way of leaving it under pressure, at least right now, so there may be some small leaks somewhere in the tubing, but nothing I cant work with, at least the the HX's and boiler are good, the steam and water valves are functional, the pressurestat kicks on and off at 1.5 bar, and the gicar flow meters spin. At least I feel comfortable spending some more time and some money on it. I used a bunch of soapy water looking for leaks and eventually got everything to seal and hold.

Can anyone help me out with the wiring of the flowmeters to these dosepad/controllers? I have seen pictures of similar machines wired red, white, black, from left to right, on this machine the wire colors from the gicars are red white and brown. Any help would be appreciated.

Do you have the plastic covers for the controllers? They should have the wiring schematic on them.

The flowmeters operate on 12VDC, the convention being red for positive, black for negative (chassis ground) and white for output. If need be you can check the flowmeter caps to see which colour is connected to which pin (+, -, O) and then follow the tracks on the controller board to identify the + and - outputs from the rectifier.

Do be careful not to connect the + from the controller to the negative on the flowmeter cap, bad things happen.

Well, bad things may of happened! Lord, I got it together enough to try turning it on, it was leaking from a few spots of course, but once I got most of the leaks fixed I powered it up and the pump started, I thought it was the boiler fill function, but the right flowmeter light was lit up and when I pushed the stop button on that dosepad something arced in that controller, so I shut the power off. I will check it out tomorrow with a DVM. I wonder if both dosepad controllers are the same? Can either one be used to control the level control? They could have gotten mixed up during the re-assembly, when I got it everything was unplugged and they were just stuck in the openings with no covers. I dont have the covers for them, I will check out the voltage levels of the flowmeter connectors with a DVM. I hope I didnt fry that dosepad!