220V to 110V.. possible !? - Page 2

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HB
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#11: Post by HB »

Then again, since it's a lever machine, converting it to 110V shouldn't be too cost prohibitive. Replace the heating element, wiring where necessary (heavier gauge), indicator lights, and it might work out if the boiler isn't too big. Contact Orphan Espresso, they have lots of experience with restorations and might be interested in the project.
Dan Kehn

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Juanjo (original poster)

#12: Post by Juanjo (original poster) »

yes,

that was my first idea..

there is not much at all electronically in this machine, heat element and one main-brain.
I even have a spare main-brain from another newer Brugnetti, but the heat element may be a trick to find... as far as I could find this machine is from the 60's :O

well, who knows, I may go back to "220V" Argentina one day.. ;)
cheers,
Juanjo

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bernie

#13: Post by bernie »

Do you have an electric range/oven? Or an electric clothes dryer? Sometimes folks overlook these appliances and assume they only have electric service based on the outlets they use. If you have an oven, range, or dryer or waterheater that is electric then you have 220v to the apartment.
Bernie

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cannonfodder
Team HB

#14: Post by cannonfodder »

When I was running a 220 two group, I had an electrician make me what essentially is a two outlet extension cord. Your normal oven is a 50 amp 220 (dryers are 30 amp 220). He made me a short cord with the appropriate gauge wire with the proper male plug to go in the wall and two different jacks for power, one for the proper plug for the appliance, the other for the machine. You just cannot run both at the same time or you will blow the breaker.
Dave Stephens

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Psyd

#15: Post by Psyd »

Juanjo wrote: Q. my apartment have 15amps fuses, will your 5000w transformer and my 3200w appliance work with that setup.
A. YES, it will work.

is that possible or he was lying to make a sell?

on the other hand, I like the idea of getting an special 220V line in the apt..
The kit will draw 1600W at 110V, but provide 220V at 3200W. (See Ohms Law)
It is pretty much the limit of what a 15A fuse will do, so I'd consider putting in a breaker. Depending on what kind of fuse you're using, you may have a retrofit resettable option.
I'd search the house with a meter, first, to see if dryer or stove options are available. If you're going to share an outlet with either, make a switch for the service that lights up one or the other, but never both at the same time. They're a teeny bit pricy, but so worth it.
Espresso Sniper
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orphanespresso

#16: Post by orphanespresso »

Good that the Brunetti finally found a home....but what a power hog!

I pretty much concur with the posts on this one, including the answers from the transformer guy. Best is Cannonfodder with a second outlet wired from your existing 220v assuming you have one. You can actually make an extension cord from a couple of range cords to get the power up where it is more convenient for you. A big enough transformer would cost a lot more than wiring in the electrical.....of course I have never paid an electrician to do these things so I may be way off here. 110volts at 3200 watts would take a 32 amp service, which is likely against code in most places, to have 110 with that high a current rating....it would leave any other appliances on the circuit pretty much unprotected, and could melt wires in the circuit itself, depending on the gauge of the wires.....pulling that much current through a 12 gauge wire, which is standard, could be a dangerous situation as well....

But then again, there are 110 volt heating elements still out there for various machines, though they are have smaller boilers than yours. Likely Astoria could be a fit, lots of parts in common with Brunetti. You could also investigate standard hot water heater elements and go for a lower wattage element, though all of this could make the heat up time slow, but slow heat is better than no heat from no use.

If you paid the lowest asking price of that machine on ebay you got your money's worth and then some in just the groups and could pull them off to see how they are designed....there is an off chance that they are thermosyphon or HX groups, Brunetti made also Termozona which has an hx. You might be able to make 2 single group machines out of this with a low enough 110 service to move right in. Frame, boiler, pstat, some copper tube, a lot of sweat equity and a welding torch and you are there! There is certainly enough copper panels to go around.

If the groups are straight boiler dippers then it is not so simple since the group would attach directly to the boiler but if it has some kind of hx setup you might be able to actually run it from a smaller boiler and put you strength into the frame. There is certainly room enough in the case for two boilers. All of this is of course easier said than done, but the 220v electrical service wired off an existing electric range socket is pretty simple since most of them are surface mount on the wall and you can just duplicate the wiring to a new socket and make sure not to roast a turkey with all 4 burners on while warming up the Brunetti!

Either way, good luck
Doug

coffee_no_sugar

#17: Post by coffee_no_sugar »

Guys,

What do you think about running the heater at 120V? The heater would produce 1/4 the heat (800W). Ok, I wouldn't want to run the machine with a line of customers but we are talking about an apartment. The machine would have other 220V bits that could either be replaced or run off a (small) step-up transformer. Not a job for the novice but it is a nice looking space heater.

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hperry

#18: Post by hperry »

Might give Joe at the Good Coffee Company in Seattle. He has a 2 group Termazona (Brugnetti) that from a group standpoint is similar to yours. It is wired for 110. He might be able to supply you with a 110 element for the machine. Mine (a one group) is wired for 110 and the elements are available for that.
Hal Perry

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Marshall

#19: Post by Marshall »

Juanjo wrote:just got this (IMO) beautiful machine which I'd love to keep, IF I can man-up with wife.
BUT the machine is 220V and we only have 110V 15a in this apt.
I'm not very tech with electric stuff so I could use some inputs..
if is possible.. what do I need to change..
That's a real pretty machine, but it may get a little tarnished after you burn your building down with your DIY electrical project. Unless you are renting from your mother, your landlord will not allow this project and for good reason. You are endangering the lives of your family and your neighbors. Get a machine that was designed for U.S. domestic use.
Marshall
Los Angeles

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Juanjo (original poster)

#20: Post by Juanjo (original poster) »

That's a real pretty machine, but it may get a little tarnished after you burn your building down with your DIY electrical project. Unless you are renting from your mother, your landlord will not allow this project and for good reason. You are endangering the lives of your family and your neighbors. Get a machine that was designed for U.S. domestic use.

OUCH.. I defensively don't want to do that...
already have a very nice 110V machine... which still need an special line and once in a while make the fuse jump..

but sadly I really like this machine.. first lever machine I have that use regular e61 58mm portafilter..

thanks for all the ideas... if I still have a chance of keeping this machine could be changing the electric part and heat element or as someone mention, use that heat element in 110V (or I got that wrong?)


thanks again,
cheers,
Juanjo