Worka Chelbessa, by George Howell, in Light and Medium Roasts
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another_jim
- Team HB
I ordered this coffee because it came in two versions, light and medium roasts, making for a great test case in the light versus medium roast espresso debate.
First, turns out this is not just a test case, but when done as espresso, a flat out, 90 to 92.5 point, delicious coffee in both versions. Second, both roasts grind with more fines than usual, so are more flow resistant. If you coarsen your grind and maintain your dose, you will get shots that are closer together in taste; if you keep your usual girnd and down dose, you will get more of the roast differences in your shots.
Both web site descriptions are accurate. The chocolate in the medium roast is in fact, quite intense, not the usual hint of cocoa. At the top end, honey, pit fruit, florals, and in the light roast, a hint of demi-glace umami. The coffee is wet processed, but there is a pleasing hint of alcoholic complexity in both. Even the light roast will make a very tasty shot for the acid shy; since this coffee is a lot more sweet than acidic.
First, turns out this is not just a test case, but when done as espresso, a flat out, 90 to 92.5 point, delicious coffee in both versions. Second, both roasts grind with more fines than usual, so are more flow resistant. If you coarsen your grind and maintain your dose, you will get shots that are closer together in taste; if you keep your usual girnd and down dose, you will get more of the roast differences in your shots.
Both web site descriptions are accurate. The chocolate in the medium roast is in fact, quite intense, not the usual hint of cocoa. At the top end, honey, pit fruit, florals, and in the light roast, a hint of demi-glace umami. The coffee is wet processed, but there is a pleasing hint of alcoholic complexity in both. Even the light roast will make a very tasty shot for the acid shy; since this coffee is a lot more sweet than acidic.
Jim Schulman
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another_jim (original poster)
- Team HB
I like a 50/50mix of both more than either alone, both for shots and brewing. This creates the pitfruit and chocolate profile that is a hallmark of southern Ethiopian coffees when everything goes right. If that's your thing, this will deliver it big time.
Jim Schulman
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Chert
Will you be elaborating on the test case aspect of these selections? I hope so.
LMWDP #198
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another_jim (original poster)
- Team HB
Sorry. The two roast blend was just too tasty -- I've already blended both bags and frozen most of the mix for my private enjoyment.
I have several other coffees that I am doing. So far, the results have been mixed, with some getting duller, and others getting more pronounced with time. Those getting more pronounced have done so either in a good or a bad way, but again, with disagreement between the tasters about which was which (one man's "astringent" is another man's "structure").
It'll take a while to sort it out, but I will be posting some conclusions in a few weeks time.
I have several other coffees that I am doing. So far, the results have been mixed, with some getting duller, and others getting more pronounced with time. Those getting more pronounced have done so either in a good or a bad way, but again, with disagreement between the tasters about which was which (one man's "astringent" is another man's "structure").
It'll take a while to sort it out, but I will be posting some conclusions in a few weeks time.
Jim Schulman
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Almico
I have a bag of each waiting for me in my mailbox. I'm curious to measure the roast level and taste George's coffee. Never had any before.
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Almico
I made quick Americano with the medium roast. At my normal grind setting on my Monolith MC4 it absolutely choked my Londinium. I had the turn the grind setting almost 120* and it still ran very slow. I'll try again in the morning with an espresso and a coarser grind.
I won't get a chance to measure the roast level until tomorrow, but if I had to guess it's a 65/78. This is what I call a "hole in the donut" roast. A bit of acidity, light body and no real spice or savory notes to speak of and not particularly sweet. I get cocoa and green apple on the first pull. It would be fine with milk.
More to come...gotta run.
I won't get a chance to measure the roast level until tomorrow, but if I had to guess it's a 65/78. This is what I call a "hole in the donut" roast. A bit of acidity, light body and no real spice or savory notes to speak of and not particularly sweet. I get cocoa and green apple on the first pull. It would be fine with milk.
More to come...gotta run.
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Almico
Ah-ha, I forgot that.
My reason for getting these coffees is not so much analyzing the coffee, but to see how George goes about things. I wanted to see how he packages his coffee and how he rates his roast levels. I thought 2 different roasts of the same coffee could be telling.
But since this thread is about these coffees, here goes...
Maybe the freezing of the greens has something to do with grind and flow? I tried another shot last night and it still wasn't pre-infusing well after a 180* turn of the burrs. If the grind dial was a clock face, I normally operate in the 7:30 to 5:30 range with my coffee. That would normally cover a light roast from day 1 after roast to 2-3 weeks on. With this one I'm at 1:00 and still not there. That's a huge and notable difference.
Other impressions: dry fragrance is faint; less so on the medium roast. Not that it's a fair comparison, but I got a sample of a Wush Wush recently and as soon as I ground it customers 20' away would turn to see what that smell was. This coffee I have to stick my nose almost into the portafilter to get a good whiff. Again, not sure what that is about. I have never had frozen coffee before. I'm not getting any papery notes typical of aged-out coffee, however.
I tried the light roast this morning and got a bit more fragrance. It was early and I was running out the door, and not in coffee cupping mode, but I perceived a very slight increase in acidity, but noticeably fuller flavor. Both roasts seemed a bit dry as straight espresso. More to come later when I have a chance to try them side by side by side with one of my washed Ethiopias.
Later...
When I got to the bar I measured the roast levels at 63/78 on the medium (almost nailed it!) and 67/82 on the light. Not a large differential. I don't think I could call blending them a true melange. Here's a pic of the two coffees. Hard to tell which is which.
I made an Americano of each and am getting that hole in the donut thing I usually get from "tweener" roasts. The medium roast has a bit less acidity, but nothing to replace it in the cup except "roast". It could be friendlier as espresso if you don't like the sharp acidic bite that usually accompanies light roasted coffee.
As a frame of reference, I roast 75-77/92-98 for light roasts. My "dark" roasts are 52/56ish. I have yet to find anything I enjoy from a roast in between. These coffees fit right into that in between range.
Not a particularly clean or sweet cup. I get more pear than peach and more cereal than honey and more English breakfast tea than cherry. It's getting a little phenolic as it cools. I tried it as a filter roast hoping to clean it up, it did not help.
My reason for getting these coffees is not so much analyzing the coffee, but to see how George goes about things. I wanted to see how he packages his coffee and how he rates his roast levels. I thought 2 different roasts of the same coffee could be telling.
But since this thread is about these coffees, here goes...
Maybe the freezing of the greens has something to do with grind and flow? I tried another shot last night and it still wasn't pre-infusing well after a 180* turn of the burrs. If the grind dial was a clock face, I normally operate in the 7:30 to 5:30 range with my coffee. That would normally cover a light roast from day 1 after roast to 2-3 weeks on. With this one I'm at 1:00 and still not there. That's a huge and notable difference.
Other impressions: dry fragrance is faint; less so on the medium roast. Not that it's a fair comparison, but I got a sample of a Wush Wush recently and as soon as I ground it customers 20' away would turn to see what that smell was. This coffee I have to stick my nose almost into the portafilter to get a good whiff. Again, not sure what that is about. I have never had frozen coffee before. I'm not getting any papery notes typical of aged-out coffee, however.
I tried the light roast this morning and got a bit more fragrance. It was early and I was running out the door, and not in coffee cupping mode, but I perceived a very slight increase in acidity, but noticeably fuller flavor. Both roasts seemed a bit dry as straight espresso. More to come later when I have a chance to try them side by side by side with one of my washed Ethiopias.
Later...
When I got to the bar I measured the roast levels at 63/78 on the medium (almost nailed it!) and 67/82 on the light. Not a large differential. I don't think I could call blending them a true melange. Here's a pic of the two coffees. Hard to tell which is which.
I made an Americano of each and am getting that hole in the donut thing I usually get from "tweener" roasts. The medium roast has a bit less acidity, but nothing to replace it in the cup except "roast". It could be friendlier as espresso if you don't like the sharp acidic bite that usually accompanies light roasted coffee.
As a frame of reference, I roast 75-77/92-98 for light roasts. My "dark" roasts are 52/56ish. I have yet to find anything I enjoy from a roast in between. These coffees fit right into that in between range.
Not a particularly clean or sweet cup. I get more pear than peach and more cereal than honey and more English breakfast tea than cherry. It's getting a little phenolic as it cools. I tried it as a filter roast hoping to clean it up, it did not help.
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