Well, it's been some time since I've given an update on my time with the Vario; I had originally planned a Vario vs. Robur E grinder shootout, but it was executed so poorly that the results seemed even more useless than they might otherwise have been. For what it's worth, however, that test resulted in the Vario beating the Robur by a small margin which, given the number of rounds, indicated statistically a tie (a very close win). However, in the test there was evidence of channeling and other problems which seemed to be the result of multiple shot preparers (1 per grinder) and inadequate shot grooming, and inadequately dialing in the grinders; I didn't think through my errors until it was over, and in the end both grinders lost big time--the shots were pretty poor, much poorer than the day-to-day experience with either grinder.
So, I intended to re-do the test, but after some private discussion and thought, I opted to do the shoot-out with a Mazzer Super Jolly instead: it's likely the more interesting and apt comparison grinder for prospective grinder buyers who are considering the Vario, and after Jim's tests and Jon Rosenthal's vs. the M7K, the SJ is in the "class" of grinders that we really haven't compared the Vario against.
The test was conducted using
Coffee Klatch's WBC "World's Best" Espresso 'generously donated' by yours truly (after
PT's Coffee donated the coffee for the Robur E test that we screwed up). The machine we used was
Paul Jones' Synesso Cyncra, set at 201°F. After messing around with a lower dose, we settled on a 21 gram dose and a shot volume of around 1.5-1.75 oz.
Jon Rosenthal joined Paul and me, thankfully, so we were able to easily conduct the test as a double-blind, with me preparing shots in the kitchen and shuffling baskets prior to pulling, and presenting Jon and Paul, the tasters, pairs of split shots in the dining room.
Anyway, the test went swimmingly, with consistency being no problem at all. We did a pair of dry runs while finishing in the dialing in process, and then completed 5 rounds before Jon bowed out due to suspected taste fatigue. The grinders were pretty neck and neck through the test. At first the Super Jolly was producing superior clarity and usually improved sweetness, but the 4th and 5th rounds, the Vario turned the tables on the Super Jolly. Paul (and perhaps Jon) guessed that the Vario shot was actually the Super Jolly shot (in keeping with the pattern). In the end it was a dead heat, even on paper. You can read the raw data we collected here:
Google Spreadsheet of Results
You'll note that Jon and I traded places on the 6th and 7th round, but we didn't bother having Jon adjust the machines for his routine, so the results really weren't useful. As the spreadsheet explains, each shot was rated according to a 3-point scale, where 0 is a below average shot, 1 is an average shot, and 2 is an above average shot; the + appended by certain scores indicates which shot the taster preferred in the given round.
The final score (W-T-L) for our Vario vs. the Super Jolly test:
2-1-2.
I want to thank Paul and Jon for their help and their time. We had a lot of fun talking coffee and getting over-caffeinated with superb coffee.
Was it the same in Houston's somewhat heavy air?
)I NEVER had the never, or the inclination to use 20 grams in one shot.
