Hello all,

First off, I want to thank the people who maintain this forum. I have used this site as a tool for quite some time, and I have come to appreciate the content. In fact, it's the content on this site that ultimately lead me to order a Slayer Single Group and LW Eg-1. I should have both sometime in February. Obviously, in making this decision I debated (for longer than most people would find reasonable) both the espresso machine and the grinder. I am coming from a more modest set-up - Profitec Pro 500 and Sette 270 Wi. Although I have enjoyed this set-up immensely, I was struck with a severe case of upgradeitis.

I will be plumbing in the Slayer, and I have already ordered some test strips to test my water quality to help me buy the appropriate filter equipment. I am now looking at other accessories I should consider compiling. I have basics (simpler tamper, Pearl, etc).

So - I ask those of you with more experience, what other items should I be thinking about? Does anyone use a leak detector for their plumbed-in unit (or is this overly paranoid)? If so, which one? Other tips would be much appreciated.

For anyone interested, I cross shopped the Slayer with GS3 MP and a Speedster. I ultimately went with the Slayer as the flow control seems more user friendly than the GS3, and the Speedster's price is at minimum $2k more. I went with the EG-1 after closely looking at a Monolith (hard to come by) and a Ceado E37.

Again, thank you to all who contribute around here. The info in these forums is valuable to a novice who's looking to get a bit better.

Sounds like a great set of gear!

I think a leak detector and automated shutoff is cheap insurance.

As you have a reasonable budget, I think the LeverCraft WDT tool would be worthwhile. I've been very happy with mine as a noticeable improvement over my cork-and-acupuncture rig. I've had one of Eric's roasts and was very impressed with it as well.

That, a modest scale, a functional tamper, and some cups you enjoy are all you really need to get going.

Don't skimp on the coffee after the pound or two it takes to get used to a new machine and grinder. Changing either of those requires some re-learning, both at the same time a bit more. I'd stick with simple first, before diving into fancy profiling.

Jeff,

Thank you much for the reply. I have been eyeing one of the Levercraft WDT tools. I'll pull the trigger.

Do you have a recommendation for the leak detector and shutoff? I am plumbing this in myself, and although I have some experience in handyman-style adventures (and misadventures) a leak detector and shutoff is a bit outside my wheelhouse. I would like to plumb something directly into the 3/8 inch line that will go to the filter, and ultimately to the Slayer.

Thank you. Can you explain how the LeakLogic actually suts off the valve? It is motorized or something?

I did miss in my earlier post a bottomless PF. I prefer stainless over brass as stainless has a lower heat capacity and conductivity. I can make mental arguments that stainless will drop the group-head temperature less, but have zero experimental evidence of that. I prefer a straight vs. angled handle so I can tamp on a folded washcloth or hockey puck, without a dedicated stand.

I believe the Slayer comes with a bottomless PF. I will have to look more closely to see if it is angles.

This raises a really good question - will any 58mm bottomless PF work on the Slayer? If so - is they are particular one you recommend? Thanks.

Thanks for the explanation. For $80 this seems like cheap insurance.

Well, a good scale but I assume you already have that piece of gear. Acacia Lunar works great for me. And, I didn't care for the resident timer function of my Slayer so I added a Kasa wifi smart plug. Not sure if Frank (Titus) is still making his custom drain trays for our 1G Slayer but I sure love mine; maybe Slayer has incorporated similar on new units as it was kinda sorely needed.

I'd go a little deeper into checking your water chemistry than test strips. Rather than plumbing in ala municipal water I opted for a closed system using distilled + potassium bicarbonate (Dr. Pavlis' recipe) for relatively inexpensive and consistent water "chemistry" that will not precipitate scale. Maybe one of our resident chemistry experts can better elaborate on the best method for testing your muni/well water.

Most of us that are steaming small volume of milk for cappuccinos, etc., have dropped down to the "0" size steam tip. Even with the smaller holes of the '0" its a powerful steamer.