Pat, I want to connect an Intermatic ET1705C Electronic Timer in line with my Speedster Espresso Machine (240V) to turn On the Speedster at dawn and turn OFF in the afternoon. Attached is my diagram showing how I believe the timer should be wired between the Breaker Panel and the Speedster. The Intermatic timer Installation instructions can be found here: https://www.intermatic.com/-/media/inRi ... tions%20EN However, the instruction are limited in scope and do not take in to consideration a Euro made product. I would appreciate your review and your feedback. Thank you!

Hi Daniel -
(I needed to edit your post a little - you had neglected to click "place inline" after uploading your image.)

While your solution looks sensible to me, I am bothered that they have no instruction for using that 1705 model with 240V split single phase. I think it would be smart to contact Intermatic tech support for advice about that. Also, this timer is a little different than plugging in a Wemo - and for job like this I always advise getting a licensed electrician to do the installation.

And I strongly encourage the use of a GFCI breaker on any espresso machine. There are loopholes in the code that allow 240V to the kitchen without GFCI, but I think it's always best to ask your electrician to put one in. (typically at the breaker panel).

P.S.
If you go with your solution, you will essentially have a 120V timer on L1 and N, and a 240V espresso machine on L1 and L2 in your circuit. That's OK - a lot of US stoves and dryers work that way. At first glance you'd think that might give you a load imbalance that would trigger a GFCI, but GFCI breakers are smarter than that - they sense a current imbalance on all three wires (L1, L2, and N) together:

P.S.
If I were buying a new Intermatic for this purpose, I'd go with the ET1725 model. They have a straightforward configuration diagram for that and it gives you double pole switching - better from a fail safety perspective.

Hi Pat, Thanks for your quick reply and explanation. After my post this morning, I contacted Intermatic Tech Support (John' B's suggestion) and we reach the same conclusion that ET1725 Timer would be the best solution. So, I returned the ET1705 for the ET1725 model as you suggested. GFI at the breaker panel for the line is a great suggestion. Best regards, Daniel

Jwilly wrote:Ships on Tuesday so hopefully it'll be here in 10-12 days

very cool

whats the expected warm up time

The boiler temperature gauge reads 200 degrees in approximately 15 minutes. IMO the machine reaches full operating temperature in 1-1 1/2 hours.

Is this for the L1 with the 7L boiler and 2700W heating element?
I plan to just leave it on 24/7 until I can find a proper Nema 6-15 smart plug. Or maybe keeping the stock power cord with UK plug and using a UK smart plug, then plugging that into a converter plug or extension cord to get to Nema 6-15 plug is the way to go.

Note: The warm up time is for my Speedster espresso machine.

I would imagine that the L1's warm up time would be similar to my Bosco although there are differences. The Sorrento requires around 90 minutes to be fully up to temp. You can certainly pull shots sooner then that but you won't get the optimum temp profile throughout the shot. An easy test on the Bosco is to grip the lever just below the screw on handle. If it's hot to the touch you are good; cool or just warm the group is not fully heated up. Scace testing showed that shots pulled before the machine was fully up to temp might get close to the desired peak temp but then the shot temp plummeted 10*-12*F. When the machine is fully heated I can hit whatever peak temp I'm looking for using a timed flush & the shot temp will decline 3*-4*F over the course of the shot.

Since your L1 has a t/s to heat the group the group may come up to temp faster then my dipper but you might want to give it a flush after the boiler is heated to get the t/s moving.

After an agonizing delay in receiving the US NEMA 6-15 power cord, I finally have my L1 up and running. Replacing the entire power cord and using a converted 120V 20amp circuit to 240V 20amp worked like a charm, thanks for the input.

I hit a snag connecting the water line...the included braided line is 3/8" BSP to 3/4" BSP which was not compatible with my 1/4" fridge line or John Guest fitted pressure regulator. I ended up going from 3/8" BSP to 3/8" John Guest and into the regulator.

I must say the machine is pretty striking in person. It was also surprisingly larger than I expected, but I'm glad I went with the L1 over the LR as the lever/portafilter handle height is perfect. It seems to be very well built and easy to access everything inside the panels.

I've pulled a couple shots and had an amazing decaf cappuccino on the first pull last night. However, I notice that all shots have been watery/runny, rather than the thick shot I am used to on the Vivaldi. There is a thin layer of crema, but with patches of drip-coffee look as well. I am using 16g in the stock basket, 8s preinfusion + 30s for a 35g shot. I notice the boiler is hovering between 1-1.15 bar. Any ideas on what I can do to fix the watery shots?

Oh I also noticed I had to set my MonoFlat much finer than usual. For the same coffee, I had it set to 6 for a 17.5g shot in my Vivaldi and used setting 4.5 for a 16g shot in the L1.