Removing the handles of my milk pitcher

December 27th, 2015, 3:37 am

I've got a 16 ounce stainless steel milk pitcher..

I'm thinking of removing its handles... any way i could do that?

#2: Post by **Randy G.** » December 27th, 2015, 7:13 am

"In the wee wee hours, while Morpheus haunts my eyes, the pitcher's handle is welcomed like a handshake from a friend."
- B. Springsteen

Seriously, the shape of most pitchers combined with the condensation on the outer surface that at times makes them difficult to grasp securely. And a moments inattention can cause them to be uncomfortably warm on the outer surface. It would be interesting to know why you want to do this. I would miss the handle on mine. I run two or three fingers through the handle which make the pitcher easy to hold but also gives me good tactile feedback on temperature. In this way, if the pitcher gets too warm for comfort I can loosen my grip while still having control of the pitcher.

The how? Cut as much away with a cut off wheel and then use a small carbide bit in a rotary tool (Dremel et.al.) to slowly remove the spot weld which most have to hold the handle to the pitcher. Just about guaranteed to leave marks and or roughness on the pitcher.

#3: Post by **okmed** » December 27th, 2015, 9:31 am

TheJavaCup77 wrote:I've got a 16 ounce stainless steel milk pitcher..

I'm thinking of removing its handles... any way i could do that?

Why not just get one of these that are insulated, it's also available in 20 oz. size.
http://www.idrinkcoffee.com/12oz_Frothi ... 12ozhf.htm

December 27th, 2015, 9:53 am

Thanks guys.. kudos to Randy.G for the idea..

And I'm also planning on using a sillicone band to insulate it..

I'm well aware of the heat.. got some callouses on my hand due to the heat

Gotta love a coffee forum!

#5: Post by **ira** » December 27th, 2015, 12:40 pm

They tend to be spot welded on so cut the handle as close to the pitcher as you can with a hack or band saw and then use a belt sander to remove the rest. It's probably more trouble than it's worth.

Ira

#6: Post by **Marcelnl** » December 28th, 2015, 5:50 am

I'd use an Angle grinder with a stainless steel cutting disc rather than the ever too slow dremel, then 'buff' the remaining stums with a sanding disc and then some scotch brite followed by polishing should make it possible to leave no marks, but if you plan on using silicone tape marks probably won't matter much..