Roasting Competition by Mill City Roasters - Discussion Thread - Page 20
- luvaffaircoffee
- Posts: 24
- Joined: 9 years ago
Can anyone chime in on what their artisan settings are for line smoothing? It's somewhat superficial I suppose but I don't think it is possible to have really smooth curves with such small roasters. During the roast it won't apply the smoothing just afterwards.
I believe mine were set to 4,5,5.
I believe mine were set to 4,5,5.
- NoStream
- Posts: 283
- Joined: 10 years ago
Just another addendum here - it'll vary based on whether you're oversampling.
- Boldjava
- Posts: 2765
- Joined: 16 years ago
... I have it squirreled away in my locker that's "Dave's samplers - don't use". I will be taking a run at the espresso on Tues.
Phenomenal job Dave...and no, I am not quite ready for a "Focus on the Espresso." I need some rest <grins>.
Took a run at Cannonfodder's great FC roast in the Cremina. Bright, perky. Great crema. Needs a skosh of Brazil or Sumatra to anchor it. Citric, bright chocolates, peach/stonefruits, florals tucked in the back end.
Nice job, Mr Wood-Man.
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LMWDP #339
LMWDP #339
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- Posts: 358
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Thanks Chris for sharing your roasting technique with the Behmor. Your roasting times are much longer than mine. Do you drop the temperature at the beginning of the first crack ?
I usually preheat the machine until the B button reads 270 and then put in the drum loaded with 10-12oz of green beans without stopping the roaster (with Ove Glove on). With the drum running at the faster mode and the heat at 100% I get to first crack in the 9-10 minutes range. I'll have to try your slower profiles.
I usually preheat the machine until the B button reads 270 and then put in the drum loaded with 10-12oz of green beans without stopping the roaster (with Ove Glove on). With the drum running at the faster mode and the heat at 100% I get to first crack in the 9-10 minutes range. I'll have to try your slower profiles.
- yakster
- Supporter ♡
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- Joined: 15 years ago
I used to drop the temps at first crack quite a bit but lately I've been preferring the roasts where I just moderately drop the temp to prevent first from running into second but keep up a good first crack pace.
I'm not sure I could manage putting the drum into the roaster without stopping it first. That's probably the reason for my longer roasts, slower start to full yellow. I know that Ira did a mod where he could pre-heat to higher temps and still re-start the roaster, I'd thought about trying that but haven't done any mods so far.
I'm not sure I could manage putting the drum into the roaster without stopping it first. That's probably the reason for my longer roasts, slower start to full yellow. I know that Ira did a mod where he could pre-heat to higher temps and still re-start the roaster, I'd thought about trying that but haven't done any mods so far.
-Chris
LMWDP # 272
LMWDP # 272
- JK
- Posts: 626
- Joined: 12 years ago
That's about the same settings as mine are at but I have a 3/16" diameter probe..luvaffaircoffee wrote:Can anyone chime in on what their artisan settings are for line smoothing? It's somewhat superficial I suppose but I don't think it is possible to have really smooth curves with such small roasters. During the roast it won't apply the smoothing just afterwards.
I believe mine were set to 4,5,5.
The bigger probe has built in smoothing I think compared to a 1/8" dia. probe because takes a little longer for the temp. to change..
I like the ET/BT smoother than my deltas..
I can see if I needed to add more air or heat with rough lines than if the lines are smoothed out...
You just have to try making changes till you find something that works for your machine and probes..
Not to smooth and not to rough but just right. just like Goldie Beans said...
If you change the F/Min Scale on the right and make the 100 number smaller than 100 it makes your Deltas lines larger in the graph..
I just like everything a little larger than standard..
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I'm on a Mission from God!
I'm on a Mission from God!
- farmroast
- Posts: 1623
- Joined: 17 years ago
It's worth understanding where your beans are at compared to where your BT and BT-RoR readings are at. Then factoring in heat adjustment reaction time. Otherwise on the fly adjustments can be off. I prefer a 1/16" probe tip in bean mass with a support tube to avoid bending
LMWDP #167 "with coffee we create with wine we celebrate"
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What is your rapid external cooling method like? For the most part I've tried opening the door and pointing a fan in there but not sure I'm liking the results.yakster wrote:I used to drop the temps at first crack quite a bit but lately I've been preferring the roasts where I just moderately drop the temp to prevent first from running into second but keep up a good first crack pace.
I'm not sure I could manage putting the drum into the roaster without stopping it first. That's probably the reason for my longer roasts, slower start to full yellow. I know that Ira did a mod where he could pre-heat to higher temps and still re-start the roaster, I'd thought about trying that but haven't done any mods so far.
- yakster
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I found a steaming pan insert to a pot at a thrift store and found that it fit one of my plastic food storage bins perfectly. I rough cut a hole with a knife for the hose of my industrial shop vac and I pull cold air through the beans, it works pretty well, but care must be exercised with plastic hoses and vacuums with large batches (larger than I roast) to avoid damage to the vacuum. A lot of people do what you do or put a colander on top of a fan, but that blows chaff all over and may be best done outside or somewhere where you can easily sweep it up.
-Chris
LMWDP # 272
LMWDP # 272
- luvaffaircoffee
- Posts: 24
- Joined: 9 years ago
When I used my gene cafe I used a shop vac, colander on a 10gal bucket with a hole cut in the lid and it blew chaff all over but then I'd just grab the wide attachment swap the hose to the other side and sweep it up. Worked really well for cooling.