[quote]by Marcelnl » Today, 11:11 am

This is exactly correct. The current running through a cable (conductor) is, for a given load, largely a function of the resistance of the cable connecting the load to the voltage source. The smaller the cable diameter, the greater the resistance for any given cable link. A wire with greater resistance will dissipate a greater amount of heat energy for any given amount of current, the power being equal to the square of the current times resistance. It may be helpful to think of basic electrical properties in terms of a pump (the voltage) pushing water (the current) through a pipe (the conductor). In those terms it may be easy to understand that the smaller the pipe's diameter, the greater the resistance to the flow of water....the same as electricity: the smaller the conductor the greater the resistance. Heat, in Joules (power by time), equals the square of the current multiplied by the resistance multiplied by time. So the greater the resistance (smaller the conductor) the greater the heat. Faulty connections increase resistance and have the same effect.

Marcelni is also correct that the voltage rating of a cable refers to its dielectric strength (and if any body cares about such things, this is the maximum voltage required to produce a dielectric breakdown through the material and is expressed as volts per unit thickness, essentially its electrical insulation) and has nothing to do with the current-handling capability. The conductor's cross-sectional area, its length, the material that the conductor is made of and the ambient temperature of the operating environment are mostly what dictate the current handling capacity of the cable.

Thanks for adding the long version, think it's my Zen mode that inhibits lengthy explanations lately
(Loved 'Zen and the art of motorcycle maintenance' it's just that I seem to keep buying copies as they tend to go awal when loaned out)

@fotondrive: i was not trying to raise an argument as in who's right, just trying to keep the focus on the most important aspect. Current...
The element will indeed provide more power on a higher voltage, but as P=U*I going from 120 >130 v at a fixed current of let's say 10A (as the element will keep it' resistance) will only add little overall power in the heater (from 1200 to 1300W) and way less at the wiring as the resistance there is low to begin with (well unless you are talking needlepoint wire or very poor connectors)

peacecup wrote:I searched quite a bit and couldn't find a good source for high-temp wire. Could you post a link and some specs for it?

PC

Silicone insulate wire. Available at online and real store that sell radio controlled toys. Softer when new vs. the "vinyl" type. Stays flexible after hours of exposure to heat. To reduce corrosion try CorrisionX. A few different varities available. I just use the Red colored can version. Designed to protect electrical connections in boats, aircraft or whatever from corrosion.

Horizonhobbydotcom
Headsuphobbydotcom
Buddyrcdotcom

Are all USA retailers with low or inexpensive flat rate shipping. Solid companies.

Marcel, I was not being clear and I apologize. Current is indeed the generator of heat.

BTW, The Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance is a good read

No harm done, I just wanted to make my intentions clear

Yeah Zen ataomm is a good read, more recently I found more recognition in the Sri Ramana's work.

#22:Post by Marcelnl » Yesterday, 5:37 pm

Thanks for adding the long version, think it's my Zen mode that inhibits lengthy explanations lately
(Loved 'Zen and the art of motorcycle maintenance' it's just that I seem to keep buying copies as they tend to go awal when loaned out)

Ya, I know Marcel....I never seem to use just one word when 5 or 10 will do just fine thank you. As my wife says, "every time I ask you the time, you build me a damn clock". I tell her its just that I have a bad habit of anticipating the next question or objection.