La Cimbali Junior/D Restoration Project - Page 3

Equipment doesn't work? Troubleshooting? If you're handy, members can help.
turboyeast
Posts: 143
Joined: 11 years ago

#21: Post by turboyeast »

M.White wrote:I did some reading on the forum and I now suspect that the 3 way solenoid group valve is probably responsible. Is is supposed to click very loudly when it's working properly? I tried to touch it while trying to pull water out of the grouphead, but I did not feel a thing,
Did you dismount the group and clean it thoroughly with degreaser and acid? It is often clogged with old coffee fats. The 3-way solenoid valve can be easily checked by connecting it to electricity and ground (middle connection). Be careful of course...
Cheers, TY

Before cleaning


After cleaning


Showerscreen part

M.White (original poster)
Posts: 45
Joined: 10 years ago

#22: Post by M.White (original poster) »

Not yet. But I'm pretty sure it is not the problem, the grouphead is not so dirty and it was working a couple of days ago. I'm trying to make it work, or at least get an idea of what is not working properly, before I start restoring it completely. I'll take a look at the group 3-way solenoid valve and start to take the machine appart after that.

Thanks a lot guys.

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M.White (original poster)
Posts: 45
Joined: 10 years ago

#23: Post by M.White (original poster) »

I'm taking the whole thing appart right now and I think I found the culprit : the cartridge is all cracked up, I can't even get it out of the boiler right now,

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civ
Posts: 1148
Joined: 17 years ago

#24: Post by civ »

Hello:
M.White wrote:I'm taking the whole thing appart ... ... cartbridge is all cracked up, I can't even get it out of the boiler ...
Hmmm ...
STOP!
Please be very careful with this issue.

The cartdrige (I suppose you are referring to the HX tube) fits exactly and very snug in it's place.
If it does not slide out easy and smooth, it means it has deformed and probably cracked due to water freezing inside it at some time.

Getting the damaged HX tube out without causing damage to the boiler is a very tricky business, a problem in boilers without bolt-on endplates like the one you have. I seem to recall reading something here at HB (?) where one had to be patiently cut in pieces from the outside with a Dremel to be able to get it all out.

I suggest you search and have patient read at those therads before you continue. Your boiler is at stake and that's means $$$.

Cheers,

CIV

EDIT
I think this may be the link I refer to above ...
http://owenegan.com/pix/espresso/cimbui ... /index.htm

turboyeast
Posts: 143
Joined: 11 years ago

#25: Post by turboyeast »

M.White wrote:I'm taking the whole thing appart right now and I think I found the culprit : the cartbridge is all cracked up, I can't even get it out of the boiler right now,
This is bad news, but explains your situation. The grouphead does not receive water since water "leaks" into the boiler via the heat exchanger. What to do...this requires indeed HX surgery. Bring out the dremel...
Cheers, TY

M.White (original poster)
Posts: 45
Joined: 10 years ago

#26: Post by M.White (original poster) »

The machine is now in pieces.

The cartridge is still in the boiler, I started to cut it in pieces with a pair of snips, but, as you said, I may need a Dremel to finish the job.

Thanks for your help. I'm keeping you in touch as soon as I have more news.

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trumz
Posts: 359
Joined: 10 years ago

#27: Post by trumz »

Hey Phil, I'm having the same problem with my heat exchangers. They aren't cracked but bulged at the head so I can't get them out. I suspect there was a bit of water in them and they froze. Not sure if they would still work in the condition they are but I was thinking of replacing them anyways.
Good luck with your rebuild and let us know how it goes with the HX removal!

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turboyeast
Posts: 143
Joined: 11 years ago

#28: Post by turboyeast »

LS,
Freezing is an option, but another one is a unadjusted Over Pressure Valve (OPV). The Ulka pump produces 15 bar and if the HX is not protected by the OPV, the HX is exposed to forces that can be fatal on the long run. It is therefore very important with the Cimbali jr models to set the OPV.

Personally, I would drill out the bottom of the HX with a long drill. Next, I would take a dismounted iron saw and cut the HX in three longitudinal cuts just below the flange of the boiler. Finally, cut the HX with a dremel and collect the pieces.
Cheers, TY

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